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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 



THE LETTEBS OF 
MISS GARDINER AND MISS QUINCY 



1915 



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COPYKIGHT, 1915, 

Sabab D. Gasdinbb and Maby P. Qdincy 
This copy is No. J...Ct-.l 



Pnralelr PilnMd 

To b« b*d U tbe UbruT or tbe Boclatr of th« Colonial Damea or 

Ameiie* in N«ir Yoik 



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D 

INTRODUCTORY NOTE^ 

The Letters' are from the correspond- 
ence of two Colonial Dames from the year 
1890 to the year 1910, Having been pri- 
vately printed, they are given to the Library 
of the Society of the Colonial Dames of 
America, in remembrance of days at home 
and abroad, during the two first decades of 
the Society, into which both ladies were 
received, in the year following its fomi- 
dation. 

' The twenty-fifth Anniversary of the Society of 
the Colonial Dames of America, May 2Sd, 191S. 

* The proceeds from the sale of this edition will 
be devoted to the acquisition of original docnmenta 
relating to the history of the British Colonies in 
North America, and antograph letters of governors, 
magistxates, etc., holding office prior to the Declara- 
tion of Independence of the United States. 



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IN PREFACE 

The path that leads one over hills bathed 
in sunshine will also descend, occasionally, 
into shaded dales: one will observe in an 
old garden briars intermingled with the 
flowers, but — ^like the sundial set in their 
midst — this correspondence shall be a record 
of events, marking, only in sunlit degrees, 
the Dial of Time! 

"Letters of the present generation, in 
f utiire will become rare, and have an unique 
value, for, broadly speaking, few are written 
with the leisure of other days. The tele- 
graph, the cable, the wireless message, even 
the newspaper, have become, as it were, the 
viva voce exchange of the written word. 
This also applies to the once v^ued art of 
conversation." 

If some pleasant memories of the Society 
are recalled, this little volume will not have 
been prepared in vaJn for 

The Colonial Dames of Amebica. 



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CONTENTS 



LSTTXR TEAR PAOB 



I At the Court of Saxony 1 



II Langenscbwalbach 10 

III A Colonial House of the accession year 

of King George III of England— 1760 16 



IV A Birthday Greeting 25 

1898 

V A Glimpse of the Spanish Caravels ... 26 

VI The Lantern Party 82 



VII The Vandeville: A Fugitive Sqnirrel .. 8B 
VIII Paris: A Hnsicale at the British Embassy 41 



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CONTENTS 



VBAB PAOa 

1895 

IX The Luncheon at the Metropolitan Club 49 

X Greece 52 

XI Sunny Days in England, Wales and 

Scotland 56 

1896 

XII Cairo 61 

XIII The Island of Martinique 69 



XIV English Notes 77 

XV The Engadine 89 

1898 

XVI "One can see Corsica !" 86 

XVII Pasquale d'Este 102 

XVIII An Ancestral Estate at Litchfield ... 108 



XIX Over Summer Seas 115 

XX A Bunch of Cyclamen 120 

1900 

XXI Snow and Sunshine at Cannes 124 

XXII The Paris Exposition 129 

XXIII The Intermittent Spring 186 



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I 



CONTENTS 



Tii 



TKAR PAQI 

1901 

XXIV Pan-Biftrritz: Good Friday at Fuen- 

tcrrabia 141 

XXV Tbe Fair Land of France 149 

1902 

XXVI Up the Nile 154 

XXVII "Bella Roma" 161 

XXVIII In tbe Netherlands 166 

1908 

XXIX The Ci^ of the Deys 174 

XXX In Winter and in Spring 181 

1904 
XXXI "When Knights were Brave and 

Ladies Fair" 186 



1905 
XXXII Christmas at Assonan, Upper Egypt 19S 
XXXIII From tlie First to the Second Catar- 
act and Khalil's Story 197 

XXXIV Aidley: A Letter from the "Maison- 
nette" 205 

1906 

XXXV The Little Owl at Luxor 21S 

XXXVI The Fancy Dress Ball at Assouan . . 216 



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CONTENTS 



La-TTER TKAR PAOB 

1907 

XXXVII Cap Martiii,AIpeB Maritimes, France 219 
XXXVIII The Austrian Tyrol: Cortina 

d'Ampezzo 22S 

XXXIX Visit to Aidley 282 

XL Persiflage 286 

1908 

XLI New York 240 

XLII An Old Manor House 242 

XLIII The Manor Farm 248 

XLIV Visit to Saglikoa Manor 261 

XLV Christmas-Tide at Ardley vith an 

Echo of the Distant East 259 

1909 

XLVI Lakewood S62 

XLVII The Dedication of a Memorial Lamp 865 

1910 
XLVIII Fonnation of a Chapter of the C. 

D. A. 270 

XLIX Easter-Tide in Washington 272 

L A Christmas Visit to the Castle at 

Nescbwitz 278 



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1800 
AT THE COURT OF SAXONY 

L£TT£B OF Miss Quincy 

Dresden, Saxony, 

January Uik, 1890. 

The New Year Reception at the 
Palace. 
My dearest S.: 

The lovely skies of the first day of the 
year gave gaiety and charm to the capital 
of the SaxcHi kingdom, for Dresden was 
en grand gala, and the King was receiving 
the officers of his army uid the nobles, who 
were calling at the Palace to offer their 
omgratulations. 

In Court-uniform, over which was worn 
the grey army greatcoat, they were pass- 
ing to and fro, crossing the paved bridge 
over the river and exchanging greetings with 
one another, with the frank pleasure that 
comrades express cm festal days. 

In the evening only, are the ladies of the 



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2 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

kingdom and foreign guests invited to the 
Palace, where the Ley6e takes place, luid it 
was a pleasure to have this cerononial event 
in anticipation, for in connection with it 
occurs a curious mediaeval custom, known 
as the Hof spiel, that is unique among the 
Courts of Europe. 

The reigning Sovereign of the Saxon 
kingdom is King Albert, a son of the late 
King John, who is remembered as a lover 
of Dante, and the possessor of one of the 
noted libraries of the works of the great 
Florentine. 

The charming Queen was, before her 
marriage, the Princess Carola, the only 
child of Gustavus Wasa of Sweden, and 
brought, it is said, a large dot to her 
royal husband. They have no child and 
the heir-presumptive is Prince (ieorge 
of Saxony, the king's brother. The late 
Princess George of Saxony, his wife, was a 
Portuguese princess, who left, at her death, 
several sons and two daughters, the ddef, 
Princess Mathilde, often assisting her royal 
aunt at Court functions. The pretty 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 8 

younger princess, Josepha, was married, 
only last year, to the young Archduke Otto 
of Austria, and went to her wedding in the 
crystal coach used on the occasion of Saxon 
royal marriages. The photographs give the 
impression of a very happy German maiden 
with her betrothed. The Archduke himself 
is quite handsome.* The Crown Prince of 
Saxony is still unmarried, and is, I believe, 
absent. 

On this beautiful evening of the New 
Year, about eight o'clock, we drove to the 
Palace, and, passing beneath the porte- 
cochdre, ali^ted before the glass-doors of 
the entrance, within the great courtyard. 

The Hof-diener dismissed the brougham, 
as we entered the vestibule, and we lingered 
for a few moments before ascending the 
white marble staircases, over which the red 
carpet was laid, to the Bail-Room. The 
gardes-reiter (the King's escort) were on 
duty as sentries, — as the guests passed up 

* Their son, the Archduke Charles Francis, is its 
present heir-presumptive to the throne of Anstria- 
HoDgary.— M. P. Q., 1916. 



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* PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

the long flights of steps,— their pale blue 
and silver uniforms making effective out- 
lines against the white walls. 

We gave our cloaks to our footman at 
the top of the second staircase, and again 
paused a moment, for the va et vient of the 
guests was a fascination! The officers and 
nobles wore their swords at their sides, the 
points of the scabbards striking the marble 
at every step, making a half-martial, half- 
musical sound. 

A yomig nobleman, wearing a scarlet 
and white uniform, bnuded in gold, was 
waiting to be presented, by the Bavarian 
Minister, to the King. He is a cousin of 
Baron Schoenberg, whom, later, we had the 
pleasure of meeting, also, and who is married 
to an American lady. Miss Word. 

My cousin, General R., then wished to 
take his own place for the royal presenta- 
tion in the Bed Drawing-Room, and as I 
had already beoi presented, two years be- 
fore, and the ceremony for me was, at this 
time, iinnecessary, I led the way with him 
through the long corridor, lined, on each 



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PAGES IN AZUHE AND GOLD S 

side, by the King's escort, who saluted my 
cousin in the American uniform, as we 
passed — a pleasant, if usual compliment. 
In the ante-chamber we met the wife of the 
Bavarian Minister, Baroness Niethammer, 
who greeted us, and those who were to be 
presented left us, and went into the Red 
Drawing-Room. 

We remained in our places, although the 
doors to the Ball-Rocmi were open. There 
was no music. It is not the custom at the 
Lev^. The guests continued to axrWe for 
srane time. Then the King appeared, after 
receiving the guests presented to him, and 
we all, en bande. followed his Majesty and 
altered the great Ball- Room. 

The Princess Mathilde represented her 
Majesty, the Queen, — who was not able to 
be present, — ^and wore a lovely frock of rose- 
colored silk. The etiquette of the train is 
very strict, and the length is prescribed by 
Court usage. Only a royal princess may 
wear one of five metres, which may be al- 
lowed to fall on the ground. The train of 
everyone else must conform to foiu* metres, 



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6 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

and it must be carried over the left arm. 
My own, of white satin, I guarded with care, 
as the warning of the modiate rang in my 
memory: "If mademoiselle allows her man- 
teau to lose its place, she cannot recover it." 
The dress, of white lace over white satin, 
had garlands of velvet edelweiss, soft and 
lovely, while the coiflfure was a tiny coro- 
nal of braids, d la SUpkame, with a knot of 
edelweiss and white ribbon. 

The guests arranged themselves about the 
Ball-Room, and the King, his brother Prince 
George, Princess Mathilde and her younger 
brothers spoke with a few. The Court 
Pages were in attendance at the reception, — 
handsome lads, from fourteen to sixteen 
years old, — in powdered wigs, wearing white 
and scarlet livery, and white shoes, adorned 
with rose-colored rosettes. 

In a little while the royal party retired 
to the Throne-Room for the Hofapiel. 
Very quietly, and without apparent for- 
mality, we took our places in the little pro- 
cession of Court guests, who were now to 
pass through the Porcelain-Room, — octago- 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 7 

nal in shape, with lovely specimens of faience 
on the walls, — to the Banquet- Hall. 

Still passing? on and arriving at the 
Throne-Room, we saw the arran^ment for 
the Hofspiel. Four card-tables were in 
place, one at the upper end of the room for 
the Eang, and the remaining three in a row, 
at the side. At each table sat a member of 
the royal family engaged in playing cards 
with invited partners. Being a mediaeval 
custom it is very quaint. Lighted candles 
were on the card-tables, at each of which 
were four players. Opposite King Albert, 
as his partner, sat the Baroness Nietbammer, 
who is greatly beloved at Court and a fav- 
orite with everyone. The entire scene of the 
Hof spiel was charming. 

As we passed the card-tables in turn, 
we curtseyed low, or saluted, as is the 
custom, taid the royal personages looked 
up and bowed an acknowledgment, imme- 
diately returning to their game of cards. 
Resmning our leisurely promenade with the 
guests, we left the Throne-Room and en- 
tered a large apartment, the walls of which 



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S PAGES IN A2UEE AND GOLD 

were hun^ with crimson velvet. Passing 
beyond, we altered a sectmd room, similar in 
detail, but with painting here and there, 
then into a third room where a bu£fet with 
b(Hi-bons, in tall, royal Meissen Spergneg, 
superb silver-gilt candelabra (presumably 
from the treasure of the celebrated "Green 
Vaults,") and beautiful porcelain, were in 
use. The supper was simply a light refec- 
tion of delicate cakes, and pfeffer-kUchen, 
while in an adjoining room wines were 
served. 

Among the guests. Count Fabrice was 
pointed out to me, a distinguished noble, 
who, I thought, slightly resembled Count 
Waldersee. The Prince of Hohenlohe was 
noticeable in Hussar uniform, wearing a 
jacket heavily braided in gold, with broad 
collar and cuffs of grey Persian lamb, to- 
gether with high boots and spurs. A cap- 
tain in the British Indian Cavalry was also 
en gala, carrying the white helmet and 
colored scarf. The young Saxon debutante 
of the season. Countess Lynar (who drove 
with me the other day to the Taschenberg 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 9 

Palace) was very beautiful, and in her 
frock of palest rose-color seoned, in truth, 
a vision of the dawn. 

The jewels worn at the reception were 
mafjnificent. Strings of pearls as large as 
holly berries, and pear-shaped emeralds, 
were not unusual, while the array of orders 
was in itself a garniture. 

At last the evening was over, and we 
waited, once again, in the great lower vesti- 
bvAc. Finally, the brougham, with our foot- 
man, appeared before the great glass-doors 
of the courtyard, and at the hour of eleven 
we bade farewell to the ceremonies of the 
New Year and the Hof spiel at the Royal 
Palace of Saxony! 

M. P. Q. 



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1891 
LANGENSCHWALBACH 

Letter of Miss Gardiner 

Langenschttai-bach, 
Nassau, Germany, 

August, 1891. 

Mamma and I have been several weeks in 
this quaint little village, situated in a green 
valley, — while Papa is taking the cure at 
Wiesbaden — Mid my brothers stay alter- 
nately with him and with us. 

I am hoping to recover from the after 
effects of influenza by submitting to the 
strict regimen of a German spa in order to 
get the full benefit of the waters. One finds 
the baths exhilarating and pleasuit to take, 
and owing to the effervescence caused by 
carbonic acid gas could imagine one's self 
bathing in champagne. 

The Kuranlagen are beautiful, with long 
pr<Hnenades so attractively laid out that they 



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PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD 11 

lure the lazy or languid patient to fresh 
energy in walking. A diapason of tones in 
verdure on wooded slopes delights the eye. 
Mid charming vistas open unexpectedly 
before cme. Swans float in majesty on the 
smooth surface of a diminutive lake, spanned 
by a rustic bridge. Rustic seats, beside 
winding paths, invite repose, and indeed, a 
restful atmosphere pervades the whole place. 
Occasionally, of an evening, the grounds are 
illimiiinated, and countless Chinese lanterns, 
gleaming among the dark trees, are reflected 
in the water. 

Beyond these pleasure-grotmds, without 
in the least encroaching upon them, is the 
village — primitive t» a degree — with narrow 
winding streets and houses with gabled 
roofs. The little shops contain many taste- 
ful souvenirs — boxes of inlaid wood and 
trifles to tempt the traveller, with the usual 
swallow for good luck. 

It is a pretty legend that of the "swal- 
low" and the "brook" whence Schwalbach 
derives its name. And speaking of this 
feathered messenger — ^harbinger of sum- 



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It PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

mer — ^reminds me of an opportunity I had 
the other day of seeing some wonderful 
tropical birds in the salon of an English 
lady, who had sent them to several public 
exhibitions, she told me, and had always won 
a "first prize." The plumage was of bril- 
liant colors. Confined in cages, the birds 
were carried everywhere, in their travels on 
the continent, by this English family whom 
I found very agreeable, and on the same 
occasion had the pleasure of meeting a 
former maid of honor to Queen Victoria. 

A great number of English people come 
here after the fatigue of a London season, 
and the hotels are well filled during summer, 
with representatives of nearly every nation 
in Europe. 

Prince Nicholas of Nassau and his family 
are staying at the "Allee Saal." One of 
the daughters is married to Prince Michael- 
oviteh, a nephew of the Czar. Robert plays 
tennis with them and also with a Span- 
ish marquis. Among the Americans old 
acquaintances have appeared unexpectedly, 
luid Mamma enjoys comparing notes of 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD IS 

bygtme days ^th two schoolmates whom she 
had not seen in many years. 

Sallie has been taking; the cure at Schlan- 
^nbad, a few miles away, and we have 
driven over to see her. Queen Isabella was 
to arrive shortly and may be there now. 
The baths rejuvenate and make one beauti- 
ful forever, I'm toldl However, Schlan- 
genbad is smaller and not so attractive a 
place as this, so I am satisfied to be here. 

Early in the morning, — about seven 
o'clock, — the band begins to play on the 
public promenade, and I love to wake hear- 
ing the distutt strains of music. 

Unfortunately, the weather, lately, has 
been not of the best. Showers are of fre- 
quent occurrence, and we run out between 
the drops, never neglecting to carry an um- 
brella. As the inhabitants do not com- 
plain, rain in the Taunus mountains must 
be no imusual thing at this season of the 
year. I, myself, may be metamorphosed 
into a duck— or, perhaps some amphibious 
animal, before the seascm is over, and my 
cure finished. One might think the atmos- 



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14 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

phere moist enough without an immersicm of 
6fteen minutes' duration, and being obliged 
to drink eighteen ounces of water daily I I 
shall be quite saturated, I think, and sin- 
cerely hope that the iron in the spring may 
not have been weakened by the rain, other- 
wise a part of the benefit might be lost. 

Your impression of beautiful Germany, 
dearest M., must seem different from mine, 
in many respects — and I fear you will think 
my mood as variable as the weather I am 
describing, but — never mind! 

The romwitic scenery of the Rhine 
remains unchanged and we had two lovely 
days for our trip, stopping at Coblenz, and 
visiting Stolzenfels, where we admired the 
interior of the castle, with its frescoes, and 
the enchanting view it commands of the 
river. 

At Biebrich we left the boat and con- 
tinued our journey to Wiesbaden, a few 
miles distant, by carriage, and afterwards, 
by rail, to Schwalbach. 

We had hoped to have an opportunity of 
seeing, to good advantage, Schloss Schon- 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 15 

berg*, Mr. Oakley Rhtnelander'scastie; but, 
unfortunately, from the boat one could only 
get a ^impse of a ruined tower at Rema- 
gen, near the ApoUinaris Spring, between 
Btnin and Coblenz. The stars and stripes 
were floating gaily oti the breeze, and from 
the window of a modern villa, near the 
tower, someone was waving a white hand- 
kerchief. 

S. D. G. 



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A COLONIAL HOUSE OF THE 
ACCESSION YEAR OF KING 
GEORGE III OF ENG- 
LAND— 1760 

Letter of Miss Quincy 

Cboyland, 
Litchfield, Connecticut, 
August 22d. 1891. 

It was delightful, was it not, dearest S., to 
take our places among the younger Colonial 
Dames in the spring-time of this year, and 
how it has awakened already our love for 
the days of the Colony and the Province I 

Your welcome letter from Langen- 
schwalbach awaited my return from a visit 
to Canada, and was a charming greeting! 
The legend of the swallow and the brook and 
the lovely ones of the Rhineland make of 
this picturesque part of Germany a veritable 
enchanted ground, but I do not fear that 
you will emerge from the waters of Langen- 
schwalbach other than yourself, nevertheless 



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PAGES IN AZURB AND GOLD 17 

with the added channs the Rhine-Maidens 
give to one who has journeyed into their 
reabnl 

During our brief Canadian journey, we 
stayed for a few days, en route, at Bar Har- 
bor, driving over to North-East Harbor, 
where we found many friends. 

How marvelously clear is the atmosphere 
of Mt. Desert! Over the rocky coast, the 
waves break in high clouds of spray, and 
how exhilarating is the airt 

We crossed the frontier into Canada at 
midnight, and the remainder of the jotimey 
to Cape Breton was an endless vista of fair 
meadows, rolling hills, pine forests with 
glimpses of lovely lakes. Spending one 
Sunday at the little town of Truro, we 
stopped at the "Prince of Wales' Hotel", 
where, long ago, in 1860, His Royal High- 
ness stayed for a brief time. We were 
given the rooms made memorable by this 
visit; occupied by the royal guest and the 
Duke of Newcastle. 

I wish that I might tell you, in detail, of 
my visit to Baddeck, on the Island of Cape 



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18 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

Breton, how I fished for salmon and for cod, 
and "whipped" the pretty "Plaster Pool" 
for trout; also of our day at the ruins of 
Louisburg, where, on the memorable battle- 
field, I found a few curious fragments — a 
rusted key, a little bullet, and the stem of a 
wine-glass (iridescent from long contact 
with the earth and exposure), dating from 
the ctmfiict of 1745, when our colonial Sir 
William Pepperell received, for his distin- 
guished service in the capture of this "Dun- 
kerque" of America, his baronetcy. The 
fortifications of Louisburg were designed by 
the celebrated French engineer Vauban, and 
made one of the greatest strongholds of 
France in her colonies. Perhaps the little 
broken wine-glass that I found had been 
raised in a royal toast at a ball (like the one 
at Waterloo) that preceded the taU of the 
French at this great battle. 

Of the importance of this victory to Eng- 
land, it is recorded: that the "order was 
given ... to General Pepperell ... to 
acquaint the officers with His Majesty's 
gracious approbation of their services on this 



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PAGES IN AZUR£ AND GOLD 19 

occasion; and in further testimony of how 
acceptable this importuit acquisition was to 
his Majesty,* a patent was sent from Han- 
over, creating General Pepperell a Baronet 
of Great Britain, an honor never before con- 
ferred on a native of America." "The 
sword used by the sovereign in conferring 
this distinction is still preserved." 

I assure you that I was most appreciative 
of the colonial history, for it recalled the 
days when the Hanoverian kings (after the 
Stuarts) were the monarchs of England as 
well as of our own country, and when 
Herrenhausai, not Windsor, was the fav- 
orite royal residence. 

Yet, alas I so strange are the fruits of war 
that in 1747 Louisburg was restored by the 
English to the French, with the treaty of 
Aix-la-Chapelle, in exchange for Madras I 

I returned with my maid, by the way of 
Halifax Mid the coast voyage, to Litchfield, 
where this charming Colonial house {that 
you know so well as the summer home of 

* King George II. 



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20 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

my uncle and aunt. Professor and Mrs. 
Hoppin of New Haven) has a history of its 
own that is as varied and delightful as the 
years it has chronicled I 

In 1760* when King George the Third 
was ascending the throne, it was built by 
Mr. Elisha Sheldon, an English colonist, 
with a rare feeling for proportion and 
beauty. The modillions of the fa9ade were 
in accord with the delicately fluted Ionic 
columns, and the lower rooms, of many 
paned windows, were protected from the 
severe winter storms, mthin, by sliding 
panels that completely ccmcealed the outside 
world. 

It is a matter of history that (ieneral 
Washington passed a night at the house dur- 
ing the war of the Colonies on his way to 
meet Rochambeau, while the Marquis de 
Lafayette, during one of his two visits to 
Litchfield, was entertained at the home of 
Hon. Oliver Wolcott. 

* It has been lately learned that an even earlier 
date (1710) is assigned to the house, in the reign of 
King George I. (M. P. Q. 1&14.) 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 31 

The beautiful grounds of the Wolcott 
estate to-day extend to the river, and include 
the quaint trystin^ place known as "Love's 
Altar," while the homestead is owned and 
occupied by the Governor's great grand- 
daughter, Miss Alice Wolcott. 

Another name among the friends of 
colonial and revolutionary times is that of 
Colonel Benjamin Tailmadge, the aide-de- 
camp of Washington, and the captor of 
Major Andr^. His noble old house with 
pillared porticoes (added after a visit to 
WashingtCHi at Mount Vernon) is but wi 
hundred rods distant frwn "Croyland." 

Of my great-grandfather's estate you 
must have the details at a future time. 

The library of my uncle, at "Croyland", 
with the quaint summer-beam, the open fire- 
place, imd the panelled wainscoting, was for- 
merly that of Judge James Gould, who 
resided in Litchfield, at the close of the 
eighteenth and early in the nineteenth cen- 
tury. With {and in suo^ession to) Judge 
Tapping Reeve, whose home was on the 
South street. Judge Gould received, as law 



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22 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

students, the young men of the day; many 
from noted families of the South, for Litch- 
field was the cradle of the study of law in 
America. 

One may picture the stately and venerable 
Judge Gould, in the olden days, in conver- 
sation with Calhoun or young Middleton, or 
others, from the then distant Carolinas, 
even as Judge Greene may have entertained 
his gallant young brother-in-law, Aaron 
Burr, before a bright wood fire in the 
delicious red-leaved autumn days I 

The tall Corinthian columns of the high 
and wide verandah, at the west, and the 
black-veined marble mantel-pieces, together 
with the fine mahogany dining-tables, were 
brought by my aunt, Mrs. Hoppin, from my 
uncle's home in Providence, in its time one 
of the most distinguished houses of that 
delightful city. This adds a note of later 
date (1818) to the house. (How dear Papa 
and Mamma would have appreciated its 
present beauty! — were they living, — for 
they greatly admired the ancient mansion.) 

Later still, are the treasures, brought to 



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"Croyland", from Oxford, by my cousin 
Mason Hoppin, who was graduated from 
Christ Church in 1880, which you will so 
well remember. In the gun-room, with the 
wide-tiled chimney frontal, are a few of the 
old engravings of Morland's paintings, 
racks for riding-crops and pipes (the meer- 
schaum is already beautifully colored 1), 
boxing-gloves, swords for fencing, and the 
fishing basket and rods. The curious "Rac- 
ing Paper" (a replica of an old wall-hang- 
ing, and itself of other days) , on the walls of 
one room, represents the Ascot Races, when 
the Queen's cup, entirely (as we know) of 
precious gold, is the coveted trophy — not 
stakes, like the Derby I The cup appears on 
the wall-paper. 

This is only a faint description of beau- 
tiful "Croyland" that one must see to 
appreciate; and you may think of me, 
dearest S., watching from the great pil- 
lared verandah at the west, the miu*- 
velous colors of the evening sky, imrivalled, 
save on the Mediterranean coasts, or over 
the Egyptian sands I There is a fascination 



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about OUT hills that cannot be described — 
but one knows it to be of the centuries, for 
the tradition is, that the Indians never failed 
to return to these happy bunting grounds in 
the soft haze of their enchanting November 
summer, when the treasures of the land and 
lake were theirs I To-day, woodcock, part- 
ridge and wild duck may be shot in their 
season, which is that of the red September 
and October moon. 

M. P. Q. 



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1892 

A BIRTHDAY GREETING 

Letter of Miss Gabdiner 

New York, 

January 12th. 189S. 

As to-morrow is your birthday, I am send- 
ing you a greeting by to-day's mail, with 
all best wishes for your happiness. 

I was interested to know, — through your 
letter lately received — that you are soon to 
begin your onbroidery on its ancestral foun- 
dation, and am sure that it will be very 
fascinating work. 

It has the advantage of lasting for gen- 
erations, and of being unpalatable to moths I 
This reflection I think you will find very 
comforting after spending a great deal of 
time on it. 

Monday was so unpleasant that I did not 
venture out to the "Dames" meeting, but 
stayed at home and occupied myself with 
painting a fan, which I shall show you some 
day if it proves a success. 

With a great deal of love. 

Your devoted S . 



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A GLIMPSE OF THE SPANISH 
CARAVELS 

Letteb of Miss Quincy to hee aunt, 
Mbs. Hoppin 

May 23, 1893. 

I have returned, to-day, from a week's 
charming visit to Miss Gardiner. It was a 
moment when the Infanta Eulalia of Spain, 
and her husband Prince Antonio d'Orlesns, 
with their suite, were arriving in New York, 
en route to the World's Fair, at Chicago, 
that was opened officially by President 
Cleveland, on May first. 

The Princess, coming as the personal rep- 
resentative of Christina Queen Regent of 
Spain (the Infanta is a sister of the late 
King Alphonso and a daughter of ex-Queen 
Isabella) , was received with every mark of 
distinction. We met the cortege as we were 
walking on Fifth Avenue near the 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 2T 

Cathedrtd. It was preceded by the usual 
mounted constabulary, followed by a 
mounted band« and a secticn of Troop A 
(that is (MHnposed of gentlemen ) . Another 
section of the Troop surrounded the carriage 
of the Infanta, while a third followed as a 
rear guard. 

The Infanta was beautifully dressed, and, 
contrary to our accepted idea of the Spanish 
type, had lovely blue eyes and fair hair. 
Her figure was slight and graceful. It is 
said that the Princess speaks in English, but 
that her husband, Don Antonio, prefers 
French. 

In the first carriage of the little procession 
were the Infanta and her husband, Prince 
Antonio d'Orleans, with Commander Davis 
and Genera] Horace Porter. In the second 
carriage, the Duke of Tamanes, the Mar- 
chioness of Arco-Hermosa, General James 
M. Vamam and Controller Myers, while in 
the third carriage were the Spanish Consul, 
Greneral Baldasano, Messrs. Cornelius N. 
Bliss, Whitelaw Reid and a member of the 
Infanta's suite. The Royal party alighted 



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26 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

at the Hotel Savoy, where they will remain 
during their visit to New York. 

Miss Gardiner and I drove nearly every 
afternoon in the Park, in the victoria or the 
brougham. From Riverside there were 
glimpses of the Spanish caravels lying at 
anchor in the waters of the Hudson. Does 
it seem possible that the armament of Chris- 
topher Columbus (as history records) "con- 
sisted of two caravels, or li^t vessels with- 
out decks, and a third of larger burden"! 
The reproductions of this "quaint naval 
architecture" of four centuries ago arrived 
on April 25th, having been safely convoyed 
across the ocean (miracle as it may seem) by 
three Spanish war ships — the Infanta Isa- 
bella with the Santa Maria (the reproduc- 
tion of Columbus' own vessel), the Nueva 
EspaAa with the Finta, and the Reina 
Regenta towing the tiny Nifia! 

It was said that on the way down the har- 
bour, "the caravels were seen like dream- 
ships through the fog, calmly moving along 
in the wake of the Spanish men-of-war," 
while eventually "the small fleet foxmd 



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PAG£S IN AZURE AND GOLD 28 

anchorage at 90th Street with the Palisades 
as a background." ' 

One delighted in these tiny craft — fac- 
simile of those used by the Spaniards for 
long voyages in the XV and XVI centuries I 
Each had four masts, and lateen sails, those 
picturesque triangular canvases that one 
sees so frequently on the Mediterranean! 
The Santa Maria, however, differed from 
the two caravels, being larger and of greater 
importance, as befitted the ship of Colum- 
bus, who, in seeking the India of Mu'co 
Polo, discovered a New World. Although 
in October last came the true quadro-cen- 
tennial of the landing at San Salvador, the 
appearance of the Santa Maria in American 
waters gave all who cared to visit the ship 
an opportunity of seeing the cabin of the 
great Genoese, "the chair where he sat, and 
the chart he had used." Miss Gardiner and 
I contented oursdves with the distant view 
of the little fleet: the Pinta, with an anchor- 
age nearest the Palisades, the wee Nina in 
the centre, and the Santa Maria lying on the 
right. 



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so PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

It is interesting that the Duke of Vera- 
gua, a descendant of Christopher Columbus, 
represents his di$tin|;ru>shed ancestor at the 
Columbian Exposition. The Duke, and the 
Duchess, and the Duke's brother, the Mi^- 
quis of Barboles, were present at the open- 
ing of the great Fair. The Duke has 
magnificent Spuiish bulls bred on his estates 
in Spain for the Corrida de Toroa. and when 
we were at Seville, at Easter, we drove out 
to see the arrival of these beautiful animals 
on the canlpagna. All the fashion of Anda- 
lusia was there, and I remember that it was 
then that I first saw the carriage of one of 
the nobles drawn by white mules. 

My little Spanish cassetta from Granada, 
of the XV century, is of the same size as 
that of Queen Isabella from which Her 
Majesty's jewels were sold to aid the enter- 
prise of Columbus. I remember seeing the 
Queen's lovely little chest in the sacristy of 
the cathedral, at Granada, but alast the 
similarity ends with the dimensions, for my 
treasure is only of wood, with embossed iron 
bands and small velvet panels, while that of 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD »1 

the Queen is a marvel of workmanship 
and — of gold! 

.... Have you seen the cabled 
announcement of the betrothal of Princess 
May of Teck to the Duke of York (Prince 
George of Wales) ?* The marriage will 
take place, on July the sixth, at the Chapel 
Royal, St. James. 

Your devoted niece, 

M. P. Q. 

'Afterwarda George V. 



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THE LANTERN PARTY 
Letteb of Miss Gabdinek 

Luzerne, Waeren County, 
New York, 
August S8th, 1893. 

Your delightful letter was very welcome 
and I hasten to write and thank you for 
every detail given, the time being long since 
our last meeting! 

Luzerne is as pleasant this year as it was 
last year; most of the old kabituSs are back 
again with the addition of a few new people. 

The season has been unusually gay, but, 
being still in mourning,* I have taken part 
only in the quieter amusements. 

One evening a Iwitem party was given, 
and that I enjoyed. The canoes were dec- 
orated with Chinese lanterns, and with red 
fire burning, the eflfect was beautiful. 
There were a great many boats in line when 

* Miss Gardiner bad lost her father, Colonel David 
Lion Gardiner, on Ma; 9, 1892. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD iS 

Dr. Fierrepont blew his horn as a signal to 
start, and leading the way, we followed him, 
first in single file, describing a serpentine 
moTement over the placid surface of the 
lake, perhaps for an hour. Finally we all 
came together, abreast, and were greeted 
with the applause of the villagers, who stood 
looking <m in admiration from the landing, 
that was also illuminated with lanterns. 

Another day a party was made up to drive 
to the Fort William Henry Hotel at Lake 
George. With a "coach and four," and 
Mr. Banyer Clarkson on the box, we went a 
distimce of ten miles for dinner, and return- 
ing in the evening, reached Luzerne about 
midnight. Our pleasure in the excursion 
was marred, however, in the afternoon, by a 
drenching shower, that suddenly descended, 
to our great dismay, before we reached Lake 
George. 

I have only been out sketching twice, and 
fear I have not "improved" my time, for 
really the scenery here is lovely, especially 
on a little creek that empties itself into the 
lake. There one could actually imagine 



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Si PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

one's self in the tropics, — so wild and far 
from human habitation it seems — ^with tan- 
gled vines, and low drooping brandies, inter- 
laced overhead, and mirrored in the stream. 
As the canoe glides softly, amid the brood- 
ing silence, occasionally a heron rises, 
startled at the sound of the paddle. 

Have you begun your Colonial embroid- 
ery? I am very much interested to know 
about it, and hope you have not abandoned 
the idea. 

With love, as ever, 

S. D. G. 



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1804 

THE VAUDEVILLE: A FUGITIVE 
SQUIRREL 

Lettes of Miss Gabdines 

New York, 

June le, 18H. 

Last evoiing I returned from a visit, of a 
few days, at New Hamburg, and for one 
who had been all the spring in town, it was 
delightful to breathe country air and to see 
again the fresh green turf and foliage. 

Forgive me if I describe too much in 
detail — and perhaps, in my own way, soar 
into the realm of fancy — ^while rendering im- 
pressions on a short trip from New York, 
and the spontaneous pleasure to be derived 
from one's surroundings, where there is a 
possibility of reviving history, and invoking 
images from the past. 

A patriotic feeling rose within me as the 
train followed the east bank of the "North 
River", and thinking of the interesting 



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86 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

events it had witnessed, since its discovery 
by Henry Hudson, in September, 1609, I 
looked with pride on its broad expanse. 

How much activity was displayed, and 
how paramount, in the seventeenth century, 
must have been the spirit of adventure to 
spur men on to the conquest of lands remote 
from their own homes I In the early settle- 
ment of this county of ours, journeying 
through unbroken forests was beset with 
greater dangers and difficulties than follow- 
ing a waterway, so the Hudson bore on its 
bosom those noble Dutch ships that had 
weathered the storms of the Atlantic ocean. 
Years passed and parties of colonists, with 
more frequency, navigated the river. To 
and fro, laden with merchandise and build- 
ing material, went the boats of the first 
Patroon, Kiliaen Van Rensselaer, who had 
established himself cm its upper reaches. 

Along the banks, in smmner, how fair and 
luxuriant was the vegetation 1 — and autumn 
came and touched the trees with varied tints 
of red and gold. Vines and creepers inter- 
laced the thick undergrowth that sheltered 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD S7 

all the little wild thin^ of the forest. 
Scarcely did its denizens exhibit any signs of 
fear at the unusual sight of a full-rigged 
ship, with sails unfurled, ascending the river, 
and gliding at times, quite dose to either 
bank. Imagine a herd of deer drinking in 
some shady core; the stag raises for a 
moment his beautiful head, and stares 
unabashed, before turning and vanishing 
with a bound, imder the covert, followed by 
his agile companions. 

A group of Indians is crouched on the 
ground, holding a solemn pow-wow. Sud- 
denly with (me accord, the men spring to 
their feet, and hiding behind tree-trunks, 
gaze, with expressionless faces, at the pass- 
ing craft, so strange to their eyes. Observe 
the graceful, slender form of a young war- 
rior, who, after keeping a statuesque attitude 
for sevend minutes, his attention now being 
diverted, raises his arms, instinctively, to 
send a shaft with unerring aim, perpendicu- 
larly into the air. A moment later there is 
a splash in the water, and an eagle — arrested 
in its rapid flight toward the Palisades— 



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S8 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

falls fluttering with the arrow of the youths 
fill marksman in its breast. 

We owe it to the occupation of the coun- 
try by the sturdy m«i of Holland that 
peaceful relations with the native tribes 
were maintained. The early traders in fur 
showed tact, and good judgment in dealing 
with these children of the forest, so that from 
the first appearance of the white man mi 
Manhattan Island a friendly feeling was 
created. 

As one draws near Irvington, the neigh- 
borhood of which has been immortalized by 
the "Legend of Sleepy Hollow," one 
regrets not being able to get a glimpse of 
"Sxmnyside," the residence of its talented 
author. However, while c<Hijuring up 
visions of the "headless horsemtui,*' — Icha- 
bod Crane's deadly fright, — and pretty 
Katrina Van Tassel, in her quaint Dutch 
costume, — other pleasant country-seats have 
been slipping by unnoticed, almost concealed 
by stately trees, and commanding superb 
views, such as may be had from the mansion 
where, on reaching New Hamburgh, I was 



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PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD <9 

to be most cordially received. Substantially 
built of red brick, and ddUghtfully situated, 
it has an old-fashioned garden, abloom with 
June roses, and of these I have brought back 
with me a goodly store as a gift from cousin 
Mary Sands. 

In the village, last Saturday, a vaudeville 
performance was given for the benefit of the 
Episcopal Church of which the Rev. Mr. 
Evarts is rector. A number of amateurs 
came from New York to take part in the 
play, and two young men of the company 
were stopping at the same house with me — 
a mere spectator. Fortunately, on this 
eventful day, the weather was fair, and from 
carriage after carriage alighted daintily 
attired ladies, who had driven miles in eager 
anticipation of the out-door entertainment 
that was to be a success in every sense of the 
word. 

With the ivy-grown tower of the church 
and its cloisters forming an effective back- 
ground, the young girls, in their simple 
white frocks, were most picturesque. 

The vaudeville, in its rustic setting, fully 



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40 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

justified its name, each player taking his or 
her rdle with dramatic life and charm in 
dialogue, dance and song. 

Tables were attractively arranged in the 
church grounds, and here a light collation 
was enjoyed by everyone. 

From a wide veranda of the hospitable 
house where I was a visitor, the proprietor 
may overlook the river and see his pretty 
little steam-yacht lying at andior. Mr. 
Sands cruised last winter in southern waters, 
and, being fond of pets, brought home with 
him three cardinal birds and a pair of squir- 
rels. The latter are amusing to watch as 
they turn a wheel in their cage. One is 
recovering from injuries received a few days 
ago when it escaped from captivity. The 
crew of the yacht were summcmed to help 
catch the fugitive, that had climbed to the 
top of a tall tree. By means of beating the 
branches with pcAes the frightened little 
animal was dislodged and, unf(»tunately, 
was slightly hurt in falling to the ground. 

S. D. G. 



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PAKIS: A MUSICALE AT THE 
BRITISH EMBASSY 
Letteb of Miss Quincy 

Faais, December 16th, 1894. 

The concart at the British Embassy on 
Saturday was a distinguished affair and a 
brilliant audience assembled in the great 
ball-room. It was arranged for a charity, 
and we were indebted to Mrs. Sears (Miss 
Nora Codidge, the dau^ter of our ex- 
Ambassador to France) for our excellent 
places. 

The Embassy is at No. 89, Rue du Fau- 
bourg St.-Honor6, the neighboring rue St. 
Honor^, having been, it is said, "one of the 
busiest streets in Paris since the XIV cen- 
turyl" As one delights in a word of other 
days, one sometimes thinks of the brilliant 
era before the great Revolution. The li^t- 
hearted lines of welcome, sung by the poi$- 
tardet to the young Queen Marie Antoinette 



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42 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

(with ^fts to her of flowers od. her first 
entry into Paris — through this noted atreet) 
have rung merrily down the years: 
"La rose est la reine des fleurs, 
Antoinette est la reine des coeurs." 

Alas I through the same rue St. Honor6, 
in 1798, the lovely Austrian was led to the 
guillotine. 

• • • • « 

Not distant from the Palace of the Elyse6, 
the British Embassy is situated within its 
own grounds. Princess Pauline Borghese, 
the beautiful younger sister of Napoleon I, 
formerly lived within it, and there are still 
mtuiy souvenirs of her day. The building is 
considered to be one of the most notable in 
Paris. The lovely garden of the Embassy 
faces the Champs-EIyse^s, and here one 
may enjoy the perfume of the lilacs when 
these flowers first bloom during the radiant 
days of spring. 

In the enclosed corridors, around the gar- 
den, with its fountain, we found gilded sofas, 
cushioned with crimson damask, suggestive 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 48 

of tbe still later era of the gay girlhood of 
Thackeray's Ethel Newcombe, — while the 
walls of the ante-chambers were hung also 
with crimson damask, and bright fires 
burned a ruddy welcome in every fireplace. 
(I remember, that, at the Palace in Saxony, 
great stress was laid on a brilliant fiame.) 

It was of interest to find one's self in the 
historic ball-rocHU, the high walls panelled 
with mirrors, while great crystal lu»tre» 
reflected, in myriad prisms, the brilliant 
lights! 

The Marquis of Dufferin and Ava is the 
present British Ambassador to France, hav- 
ing been appointed to the Embassy in Paris 
three years ago from the Embassy at Rome. 
His has been a most distinguished diplo- 
matic career: In Canada, from 1872 until 
1878, Lord Dufferin was Governor Gen- 
eral; in India from 1884 until 1888 he held 
the office of Viceroy, and he has also held the 
British Ambassadorship at St. Petersburg, 
at Constantinople and at Rome. 

Lady Dufferin, while in Canada was 
greatly beloved. Hers was the only femi- 



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44 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

nine likeness that hod ever appeared on 
Canadian currency. Later, her letters to 
her family from Calcutta and Simla were 
published in two volumes, entitled: "Our 
Viceregal Life in India", that I have read 
and enjoyed. 

The concert was admirably planned and 
most entertaining. Lady Terence Black- 
wood, the yoimg American wife of Lord and 
Lady Dufferin*s second son (Miss Flora 
Davis of New York, whose marriage took 
place only last year), sang very sweetly, 
"Si tu vouUdg" by Tosti; Monsieur HoU- 
man, the violinist, played his own ctHnposi- 
tions, with the exception of an "Adagietto de 
V ArUiiewtif^' by Bizet. Mrs. Austin Lee 
and the Honorable Mrs. C. Hardinge, wives 
of two of the Secretaries of the Embassy, 
and the H<morable Mrs. R. Talbot, wife of 
the Military Attach^, gave "Vne Nvit de 
Med," by A. GJoring- Thomas, while later, 
Mrs. Austin Lee sang en solo, a touching 
ballad "The Irish Emigrant", the words of 
which were written by the late Helen, Lady 
Dufferin, the mother of the Ambassador. 



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PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 4S 

The first verse of the ballad (that is said 
to bring an audi^ice, across the Atlantic, to 
its feet), be^s with these lines: 

"I'm sitting on the stile, Mary, 
Where we sat, side by aide. 
That bright May morning long ago 
When first yon were my bride. 
The com was springing fresh and green, 
The lark sang load and high, 
The red was on yonr lip, Mary, 
The love-light in your eye." 

A gentlewoman of rare loveliness, Helen, 
Lady Dufferin (later Countess of Gifford) 
was the granddaughter of the Right Hon- 
orable Richard Brinsley Sheridan, the cele- 
brated Irish dramatist, who was buried with 
marked honor in Westminster Abbey. 

This year, a book entitled "Songs, Poems 
and Verses by Helen, Lady Dufferin, edited 
with a Memoir, and some Account of the 
Sheridan Family, by her son, the Marquess 
of Dufferin and Ava", has appeared in a 
secrnid edition and Lord Dufferin expresses 
the hope that, at a future time, he may pub- 
lish a selection of bis mother's letters. 



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46 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

Another celebrated song of this gifted 
lady is called: "The Charming WcMnan", 
and "when it first appeared, many yeaxs 
ago, it was sung in the streets and Uieatres, 
as well as in the drawing-rooms, of London." 

The lines are lilting and gay and I must 
send you those of the first stanza: 

"So Miss Myrtle u going to msnyp 

"Wbat A nimiber of hearts she will break! — 

"There's Lord George and Tom 

"Brown and Sir Harry 

"Who are dying of love for her sake ! 

" 'Tis a match that we all most approve, — 

"Let gossips say all that they can, 

"For, indeed, she's a charming woman, 

"And he's a most fortunate man!" 

But you must not fail to read the other 
verses! 

An "Andante Religioso" by Thom^, and 
a "Mazurka" by Mlynarski, were given by 
H<morable Mrs. C. Hardinge and Honor- 
able Mrs. R. Talbot, while the concert con- 
cluded with "Un Chanson d' Amour" by 
Mrs. Austin Lee, accompanied by the com- 
poser, Monsieur Hollman, on the violin. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 47 

As one passes through the high iron gates 
of the Embassy into the rue du Faubourg 
St.-Honor^, one becomes, once more, aware 
of this thronged and historic thoroughfare. 
For, althou^ the great court-yard of the 
Embassy is entered from it, the seclusion, 
when once within the mansion, is singularly 
well preserved. The three Perchewm horses 
abreast, so familiar to all Paris, were 
patiently drawing the colossal omnibus with 
its high gallery — or imp^riale — and, invol- 
untarily, one ronanbered the painting by 
Rosa Bonheur of the "Horse Fair", where 
the models are Percheron horses. They 
are said to be of a famous breed that 
originally came from Ferche, an ancient dis- 
trict of France, where the principal strain is 
Arab and Barb mingled with tiiat of the 
powerful Norman horse used by ihe knights 
of old whm clad in heavy armour. 

It is quite possible to imagine the noble 
Ferchercm in mediaeval days, caparisoned 
for the lists, as his strength and dignity can 
be understood. To-day, alas I how different 
ishistaski 



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48 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

Not distant from the Embassy gates is a 
little stationer's shop, dating from Uie Third 
Empire. It is still, apparently, that of the 
"foumissevr h rAmbaasade ^Angleterre", 
with the British arms proudly displayed 
over the low doorway I 

In the me d'Aguesseau (a part of the 
Faubourg, and quite near) is the English 
Church that has taken the place of the chapel 
of the British Embassy. In November, I 
was present at the morning service when the 
"Dead March from Saul," in commem- 
oration of the late Czar, was beautifully 
given, everyone standing. The Russian and 
Froich flags were, as is the custom, furled 
in crepe and tied with rosettes. 

• • • • • 

Mr. and Mrs. F. Sears have already 
dined with us. Later, Diana and I will have 
luncheon with them, going afterwards to the 
Palais de Glace for the skating. Alasl I 
fear I shall be the only one who does not 
skate I 

M. P. Q. 



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1895 

THE LUNCHEON AT THE 

METROPOLITAN CLUB 

Letteb of Miss Gabdineb 

New York, May Srd, 1896. 

Your last delightful letter has reached me 
and I need not tell you how welcome it is I 
I am thinking of you now in Greece that 
seems very far away, nevertheless, I feel sure 
that yoii keep a warm place in your heart for 
our "Society," so will proceed, at once, with 
a short descripti(Hi of the limcheon given at 
the Ladies' Annex of the Metropolitan Club. 

It was a great success, and I regretted 
your ahsence, knowing how much you would 
have enjoyed it. 

A number of out-of-town members were 
present, and some yoxmg girls — daugh- 
ters of "Dames" — ^were especially invited. 
These helped very much to enliven the enter- 
tainment, but, unfortunately, the weather 



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was wet, and consequently the beautiful 
toilettes appeared to less advantage. 

The Annual Meeting took place first, and 
was followed by the luncheon, which was 
well served, with an attractive menu of appe- 
tizing and daintily prepared dishes. 

Mrs. Van Rraisselaer deserves great credit 
for having arranged every detail with such 
care. Each New York member was given 
a card on which was inscribed Uie name of 
the guest she was to take in. My aunt and 
my cousin, Sarah Lane, with three other 
ladies, sat with me. Infinite pains had been 
t^en by Mrs. Van Rensselaer to place the 
right people together in order to make a con- 
genial party at each table, and as she moved 
about the rooms she filled her office to per- 
fection, and looked remarkably well, her 
dove-coloured toque being most becoming. 

Miss Delafield has invited the "Dames" 
to meet at her house, in Darien, on May 
thirteenth, and Mrs. Pruyn, of Albany, has 
also issued invitations, but both these enter- 
tainments I shall miss, much to my regret, as 
we sail for England on the eighth. 



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Excellent cabins have been secured for us 
on the "Teutonic," and although not having 
made very definite plans, we hope, this time, 
to see something of Scotland and Holland, 
never having visited those countries. 

I trust we may meet you in Europe. 

S.D.G. 



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GREtECEi 

Letteb of Mi88 Quinct 

Athens, Geeece, May SSd, 1895. 

You, undoubtedly, are having, dearest S., 
the same delightful May weather that we are 
enjoying in Greece! The soft sea-winds 
blow gently from the Saromc Gulf, and 
over the Bay of Phaleron; while after sun- 
set, the hills of Attica are veiled in a lovely 
violet twilight. 

The royaJ family are at Tatoi, their sum- 
mer estate, and the palace at Athens is 
deserted. Every morning, at sunrise, the 
cavalry are engaged at manoeuvres, and 
occasionally we see an officer hastening his 
return at a gallop to the caseTTie, at a very 
early hour. For, by ten o'clock, the sun- 
light is dazzling, and foreigners do well to 
remain within doors until after the siesta of 
the afternoon. 

We have taken the charming drives to 
Marathon, with its battlefield, and to 
Eleusis with the ruins of its Temple of Mys- 



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teries. "Sunion's marble steep," in Lord 
ByrtMi's words, had great attraction, with its 
unrivalled sea-view and the solitary columns 
of its shattered temple of Aphrodite, wan 
and white against the blue heavais. 

But our most historic journey was in the 
Peloponnesus to Mykaene, and the prehis- 
toric Gate of the Lions, ibe scene of Uie late 
Dr. Schliemann's wonderfully rewarded 
labors. Fancy limching before the Treas- 
ury of Atreus, beneath a cloudless sky I 
Afterwards, by carriage, we crossed the 
plain of Argolis, to the Heraeon or Temple 
of Hera, where the Homeric heroes assem- 
bled before undertaking the perilous voya^ 
to distant Troy, and where our American 
School of Classical Studies is excavating. 
We drove still further, to Argos, the home 
of "Argive Helen, cause of all the Trojan 
woe I" uid beyond to Tiryns, that had its 
origin fifteen hundred years before the 
Christian era. The afternoon was passed 
at beautiful Epidaurus, while at Nauplia, on 
the Aegean coast, in the dusk of deepening 
twilight, our long drive ended. 



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On the following day we returned to 
Athens. The waters of the Bay of Salamis 
are of varying color, and the Saronic Gulf 
is especially noted for the mingling of 
green, hlue and turquoise reflections, blend- 
ing at the horizon, in what Homer describes 
as the "wine-dark sea." The Parthenon, 
the shrine of "violet-crowned Athens," is 
built of purest marble and stands like a 
vision on the mighty rock of the Acropolis. 
Superb for situation, and guardian of 
the great mystery of the past, I have 
loved it I The view is unrivalled from its 
pillared portico, and from the adjacent 
exquisite little temple of the Nike Apteros. 
The celebrated sunsets from this lovely spot 
were long since sung by Lord Byron ; with 
the island of Aegina in the foreground, over 
which Apollo, as 

"the god of gladness sheds his parting smile; 
O'er his own regions lingering, 
Though there his altars are no more divine." 

We have seen charming people. At a 
dinner given for my imcle at the American 
Legation, we met several of the Corp* dip- 



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lomatique, and Mr. £. F. Benson, the son 
of the Archbishop of Canterbury, was asked 
to take me in to dinner. You may have 
heard of bis writings, dearest S. In Greece 
Mr. Benson is interesting himself in the 
excavations of the British Classical School. 

I had greatly wished to see the Vale of 
Tempe, but it is not yet entirely safe to 
make the pilgrimage. It seems curious that 
to-day one must guard against the brigands, 
although they are not as numerous as in the 
early days of the century. 

This lovely land I leave to your imagi- 
nation; the landscape of exquisite flowers 
and the blue skies that over-arch the sacred 
mountain of not far distant, yet invisible, 
Olympus I 

On our return to Italy we will pass once 
more the island of Ithaca, the kingdom of 
Ulysses, the hero of the Odyssey, where 
lovely Foielope beguiled, with her ceaseless 
weaving, the l«ig years of waiting for her 
lord's return. 

I send you my love from this classic land 
with every affectionate message. 

M. P. Q. 



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SUNNY DAYS IN ENGLAND, 

WALES AND SCOTLAND 

Letteb of Miss Gasdinek 

Edinbubgh, June 10th, 1895. 
My deareat M — ; 

Your interesting letter was found await- 
ing my arrival here, and I need not tell you 
how glad I was to hear from you, and how 
well I can understand the keen enjoyment 
you feel, on classic swl, where every step 
recalls to mind some legmd of the past! 

We are also delighted with our travels in 
Great Britain; thus far, every place, with 
the exception of Liverpool, being visited for 
the first time. From Chestor we made a 
tour through North Wales, going to Llui- 
dudno and taking the famous marine drive 
round Great Orme's Head, then on to Con- 
way, where we spent the ni$^t at a quaint 
little old-fashioned inn, filled with objects 
of interest, especially pictures painted by 



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well-known artists who have stopped there. 
We saw Plas Mawr, the ruins of the castle, 
and the antique church, where the curfew 
hell is still rung. In Wordsworth's poem, 
entitled: "We are seven," mention is made 
of the graveyard here. 

Then to Cunarvon and its grand old 
castle, where, in the visitors' book, I had the 
pleasure of seeing inscribed my dear friend's 
namel Afterwards we went on to the vil- 
lage of Llanberis and over the Llanberis 
Pass, by coach, to Bettws-y-Coed. This 
was a charming drive. We were set down 
at the Royal Oak Hotel. On its register I 
again saw your niune, — but we staj^ed at the 
Waterloo Hotel, which some friends had 
recommended. 

At Llfuigollen we went to see the curious 
house, where lived those delightful ladies, 
who, in their youth, vowed to each other eter- 
nal friendship, and escaped from Ireland, — 
and their suitors, so the story runs — to spend 
their lives in a quiet Welsh country town. 
However, they did not live in abs<dute seclu- 
sion, it appears; they had hosts of tiieads. 



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who made long journeys to visit them, and 
knowing their hobby for collecting wood 
carving, usually brought a pres»it of a 
figure, or a Gothic design, sculptured in oak, 
to adorn the house. We were fortunate 
enough to meet the present proprietor, who 
very kindly showed us all the curios in the 
old building, and we also had a glimpse of 
the new wing he had recently constnicted. 
When I told him that I had a picture of 
Flas Newydd, at home, and that my grand- 
father and grandmother had been there fifty 
years before, he was much interested, and 
lent me a book about Lady Eleanor Butler 
and the Honorable Miss Ponsonby, who 
were greatly esteemed and beloved for their 
good deeds and kindly disposition. 

What do you think, Carisnma, if you 
and I should imitate the example of these 
devoted gentlewmnen and live together as 
they did, among picturesque surroundings, 
perhaps to attain, eventually, a peaceful old 
age? Would it not be charming I 

At Valle Crucis Abbey we were surprised 
by a thunderstorm, and waited some time 



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for its violence to abate, while Mamma 
examined the old books that the custodian 
had for sale. 

Returning to Chester after a week's 
absence, we lunched there, going on that 
afternoon to York, where we spent a few 
days and admired the Minster uid the city 
of ancient fame. 

Stopping at Durham on our way to Edin-. 
burgh, we were much impressed by the 
grand specimen of Norman architecture. 
It seems to have been built to withstand the 
storms of centuries, so huge are its dimen- 
sions and so massive its aspect. 

Edinburgh is a beautiful city, well deserv- 
ing to be called the Athens of the North. 

Yesterday we returned from a pleasant 
trip to the Scottish Lakes. How oichant- 
ing Loch Lommid is! D. and I walked 
to Rob Roy's cave, — and saw the oldest 
inhabited house in Scotland, a stone cottage 
with a thatched roof, — while we were at 
Inversnaid. It was a perfect Sunday after- 
noon when we sat on a grassy slope lunong 
the wild hyacinths and listened to the notes 



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of a cuckoo that was singing on the opposite 
shore of the lake. 

To-day (Jxine 11th) we have left Edin- 
burgh to visit Abbotsford and Melrose 
Abbey. As we have over an hour to wait at 
Kendal, on our way to the English Lakes, 
I take this opportunity to finish my letter, 
begun yesterday. There are in this nei^- 
borhood the ruins of an old castle where 
Catherine Parr, the widow of Henry VIII, 
was bom. This has been a deli^tful day, 
and indeed we have been favored with fine 
weather ever since we landed. 

We hope to be in London soon, expecting 
in July to reach Switzerland where, I trust, 
you can arrange to meet me. 

Vevey, on the Lake of GJeneva, is our 
destination. 



S. D. G. 



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1896 
CAIRO 

Letteb of Miss Gabdimek 

Ghesibeh Palace Hotel, 

Caieo, Egypt, Febriuiry, 1896. 

We are living in the palace built by Ismail 
Pasha and I cannot begin to tell you how 
delighted we are with Cairo, and how sorry 
we shall be to leave for Naples on the first 
of March! 

The grandfather of the present Khedive 
spared neither time nor money in planning 
this beautiful residence on an island of the 
Nile. It is situated beside the road to the 
Pyramids, surrounded by extensive gardens, 
and adorned with fountains, and statues in 
EuropcMi style, but the rare trees, tropical 
plants and shrubs of exuberant growth 
leave no doubt in one's mind as to the por- 
titm of the globe where many Americans are 
spending an ideal winter, the weather being 
Uke June with us. Such a wealth of roses 



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as greeted our eyes when we arrived here in 
the month of December — and one could buy 
a dozen oranges of the head gardener for a 
few cents! 

Among distinguished Europeans staying 
in the hotel may be mentioned the Archduke 
of Austria with his family, and the duchesses 
of Schleswig-Holstein and Saxe- Weimar. 

We have a dragoman to act as guide 
whenever we feel inclined to do any sight- 
seeing, and have viisited, with him, many 
beautiful mosques. Crossing the Great Nile 
Bridge on our frequmt trips to the city 
is a constant source of pleasure, of which 
one never grows tired. The bridge is closed 
at certain hours to allow the passage of ves- 
sels through the draw. Meanwhile the 
interruption has caused an accumulatitm on 
either bank of people, animals and vehicles 
of every descriptitm. As soon as travel is 
resumed the scene is like a pageant, brilliant 
with oriental life — varied costumes, trains 
of burdened camels, donkeys trotting along 
at a brisk pace, equipages of foreign ambas- 
sadors, — or those of Cairene princes, driven 



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by Nubian coachmen, and preceded by Seas 
to clear the way, combine to make a most 
unusual picture for the traveller from 
beyond the sea to gaze upon. But fasci- 
nating as are the scenes of modern Cairo, 
those described in Eber's "Egyptian Prin- 
cess," that I have been reading, quite carry 
me away in imagination, and give a wonder- 
ful insight into the manners and customs of 
the early inhabitants of the land. A visit to 
Sakkar^, the site of old Memphis, im- 
pressed us greatly with its Serapeum and 
Apis tomfos. We have stood in wondering 
admiration before the Pyramids and the 
Sphinx, and looked with awe, in the 
Museum of Gizeh, at the stem features 
of Rameses the Great, Pharaoh of the 
Exodus — among other royal mummies. 

I should like to spend another winter in 
Egypt and go up the Nile to see all the 
marvellous temples that, for an American, 
who cannot, at once, adjust his ideas to the 
ancient raiviromnent, time and leisure are 
required to study properly and appreciate, 
their age seeming lost in antiquity. 



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Before dosintr my letter, a brief descrip- 
tion of an Egyptian wedding may interest 
you. 

Our dragoman, Abstdom Levy, succeeded 
in getting us invitations on two occasions — - 
(one was the wedding of a Pasha to a 
Pasha's daughter) and each time we were 
most cordi^y received at the bridegroom's 
house, where the bride had beoi taken before 
the nuptials. The festivities usually last 
about eight days, and when we attended the 
evening reception, the neighboring streets 
were alive with people attracted by this im- 
portant event. Driving up to the entrance 
of the house we alighted from the carriage, 
amid a numerous gathering of tnarchanda 
amhvlanis calling various wares, in guttural 
tones, and with flaring lights over their 
small tables. These venders at a wedding 
must be a time-honored institution, and one 
can the more easily imderstand how in the 
parable the "foolish virgins" could go and 
buy oil at midnight. Inside the court the 
host was entertaining his friends with the 
weird and, to our ears, lugubrious Arab 



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music, chanted by the best singer (male) of 
Cairo, and with cigarette smoking and coffee 
drinking. The gentlemrai of our party 
remained here while the ladies ascended to 
the harem or women's apartment, and were 
escorted to where the bride sat, on a dais, 
under a canopy, as immovable as a begum. 
She appeared to be about sixteen years old, 
and paid no attention whatever when the 
bouquets brought by the foreign visitors 
were presented and placed in rows about her 
throne I A lady, who acted as mistress of 
ceremwiies, probably the mother of the 
bridegroom, received the floral offerings. 
We heard only Arabic spoken, though many 
Cairenes were wearing French toilettes. 
Coffee was served and bon-bons, on large 
silver trays, passed by black servMits. 

Soon a space was made, among the 
crowded guests, for an exhibition of the 
famous Egyptian dance that we had an 
opportunity of seeing for the first time in 
our lives and probably the last time! 

Suddenly there was a flutter of excite- 
ment and the room was quickly cleared, — 



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the door being closed on the bride and her 
prospective mother-in-law — ^while the guests 
hurried through the adjoining rooms toward 
the entrance of the apartmait. Strains of 
music were heard, the notes increasing in 
strength, as if a buid were mounting the 
stairs — a young girl seized a lighted can- 
delabra and hastened to the door, for the 
magic words: "Behold the bridegroom 
Cometh, go ye forth to meet him I" seemed 
to be the command given. In fact, a small 
procession entered, — led by the bride- 
groom, — and scattered diminutive coins in 
its passage. A mad scramble ensued as 
ladies of distinction vied with one another 
to gather what they could of the golden 
shower. The groomsman and the musicians 
turned back and descended to the court im- 
mediately after taking leave of the host, 
who entered the room where the bride stood, 
veiled, awaiting her lord fuid "the door 
was shut." In a few moments, however, it 
was opened again and the company were 
allowed to have a glimpse of the bride and 
bridegroom, seated side by side under the 



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canopy. This signified that everything was 
satisfactory. 

According to Moslem custom, the bride- 
groom's mother selects a young girl for a 
daughter-in-law, among her acquaintance, 
and her son cannot even see his betrothed 
until she is brought to his home on the wed- 
ding day. If she is so unfortunate as not 
to please him, when he looks on her face 
after removing the veil, he is not obliged to 
marry her, bijt will have to pay her expenses 
for a whole year. The future bride usually 
has seen the young man from a latticed win- 
dow as he passed along the street, but she 
has no voice in the marriage arrangement. 

At one of the weddings we were invited 
to partake of dinner a la Turque with the 
gentlemen, and sat at small tables in Euro- 
pean fashion, but, of course, no Moham- 
medan ladies were present, as that would 
have been entirely foreign to their estab- 
lished oriental ideas. 

With the wealthy class a wedding feast 
is not lacking in modem luxury. By reason 
of its merit, even the sparkling wine of 



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France is given its proper place, some of 
the followers of Islam, in the monde iUgant, 
thinking it no sin to drink champagne, as 
it is not mentioned in the Koran, having 
been invented after the death of the 
Prophet! On the other hand, Iambs are 
roasted whole, suggestive of patriarchal 
days. 

I was delighted to see the interior of a 
harem or Mohammedan home, though I fear 
the gentlemen did not find these weddings 
so amusing, as they only saw the host and 
his masculine circle. 

Mr. and Mrs. Sands left about a week 
ago for Italy. We hope to meet them in 
Rome at Easter. 

I can fancy your enjoyment of the voyage 
on the Caribbean Sea, and shall look for- 
ward to a letter describing its beautiful 
islands. 

My Uncle Frederick is your fellow- 
traveller, from whom also we hope to have 
an account of the many places of interest. 

S. D. G. 



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THE ISLAND OF MARTINIQUE 

Leitee of Miss Quincy 

At Sea, February 6th, 1896. 

Charming as the tropics undoubtedly are, 
the singular allurement of these wanu lati- 
tudes is most difficult to describe! 

Last evening we passed shadowy, dark 
Domenica, an island sleeping in the sea, 
beneath the heavens glittering with stars, 
strange southern constellations all glowing 
marvelouslyl 

The Germui watch sang in a minor key 
"AU ut VDoM", as our ship glided very slowly 
on its way, for here there is no haste. 

We arrived at the roadstead of St. Pierre, 
Martinique, at daybreak, finding the pretty 
French town nestled on the edge of the sea, 
the houses painted grey or brown with 
an occasional red roof. The hills curve 
upward, and the blue stucco fa^e of the 
quaint cathedral makes a pleasant place in 
the still landscape. The divers came about 
us, oitreating for small copper coins. 



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On landing from the launch, we received 
our first impressions of this chwming 
island — appropriately known as the "Queen 
of the Caribbees." 

The pretty bronze fountain in the square 
appeared to be (in amorini and dolphins, at 
least) a replica of that of the Place de la 
Concorde in Paris. The streets were clean 
and well-paved, but the sidewalks seemed 
perilously narrow. 

It is curious that Martinique should claim 
discovery by Columbus in 1502 and that its 
colonization by the French should have been 
begun in 1685, only fifteen years after the 
Pilgrims arrived in New England in the 
"Mayflower" I 

At several epochs England owned its fer- 
tile soil, but for many generations the island 
has remained a possession of France. 

We walked through the streets of St. 
Pierre, said to be "the largest town of the 
French West Indies," and on enquiring for 
old silver, I found a most beautiful ewer and 
bason of the time of Louis XV, that, unfor- 
tunately, I did not immediately secure. It 



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was shown to me in a folding case, and the 
ewer was apparently a replica of an old 
Greek design, while the small, dainty bason 
was oval in shape with undulating margins. 
Old silver, I am told, is occasionally takoi 
by families to the bank to be melted into 
coin. The bank, however, is open but three 
months in the year, and January and 
February are not of these months. 

We visited the cathedral, the interior of 
which was neatly and prettily p^ted in 
aqufu-elle, while frescoes were on the walls 
of the apse and chancel. The tall windows 
were open. A charming silver censer, with 
an angel's head, stood near the altar, while 
the hanging sanctuary-lamp was of the same 
precious metal. 

We visited the Botanic Garden (Jardin 
d' Acclimatati<m), a tangle of pretty walks 
winding among the shrubs and terraces, 
with a not distant waterfall. Dark-colored 
humming-birds fluttered, for brief intervals, 
among the trees that were laden with 



We drove to Mome Rouge, a suburb of 



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St. Pierre with gardens and villas. It was 
quite like driving through aa immoise 
tropical greenhouse, where palms and rare 
shrubs abound in the rich, moist fragrance 
of warm, well-watered earth. 

We stopped at "La Villa des Roses" and 
met M. Rugeau, and his sisters, and some 
visitors. 

The volcano of Mont P^lee is said to be 
inactive, and clouds rest over its tall, wooded 
crown. 

In the afternoon we did not avail ourselves 
of the sail to the other side of the island, 
where the capital of Martinique, Fort de 
France, is situated. 

It is interesting that the Empress Jose- 
phine was bom in its neighborhood at Trois- 
Ilets (in Jime, 1768), fuid her statue adorns 
the square of the little town (Fort de 
France). As Mademoiselle de la Pagerie, 
her childhood was passed in this fairy-like 
place, where her father, the Comte Tacher 
de la Pagerie, owned an estate, and was cap- 
tain of the port of St. Pierre. It is a mat- 
ter of history that the Comte de la Pagerie 



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"had onigrated to Martinique to serve as a 
navd officer under the Marquis de Beau- 
hamais, then in command of that island, 
while her mother, Rose Claire des Verges de 
Sannois, belonged to a family which had also 
settled in the colonies." 

Once the young Josephine revisited her 
parents, in the island of Martinique, after 
her marriage, in France, to her first hus- 
band, the Vicomte Alexandre Beauhamais. 
The Vicomte de Beauhamais perished by 
the guillotine in 1794 and in March, 1796, 
her marriage to Napoleon Buonaparte took 
place. 

It is not surprising that the lovely Creole 
should have dways kept the charm of her 
tropical home, for once the traveller has seen 
its radiance, he has lived to reidize the visi(Hi 
of an enchanted land I The women of 
Martinique are renowned for their beauty. 

We were invited to see "le Cercle 
S. Pierre^', the club of Martinique— an 
espedd courtesy, and were delightfully 
oitertained at the club-house. In the read- 
ingro(mi, (m the long table, were the ne\n- 



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papers of Paris, amcmg them the Journal 
dea Dibata and Le Figaro. 

At twilight, the lamps were lighted, and 
we were shown photographs of the terrible 
cyclone that devastated Fort de France in 
1891. Hurricanes certainly are fearful visi- 
tors! We also saw a curiosity: a basket of 
Martinique weaving, intended to hold water. 

We made our adieux at dusk, returning 
to the ship, where our dining-table was a 
veritable garden of roses, amaryllis, and 
Eucharist lilies I Great leaves of the sago 
palm made a charming decoration. 

Amid the fragrance of the flowers one 
remembers, yet another notable name in the 
annals of Fruice, Madame de Maintenon — 
the widow of le grand Monarque. She 
came as a little child to the island of Mar- 
tinique, but returned while still very young 
to France, where, like the latCT bom Jose- 
phine de la Pagerie, she also married a ruler. 
We know her name in history as Franqoise 
d'Aubigne, the granddaughter of Theodore 
Agrippa d'Aubign^, "the Huguenot his- 
torian of his time, and the friend and oom- 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 75 

panion of Henri IV." Her father. Con- 
stant d'Aubign^, after many vicissitudes, 
emigrated to Martinique with his wife and 
child, and in this tropical home, resided until 
his death, when Madame d'Aubign^ and 
her little ones returned to France. The 
marriage of Fran^oise d'Aubign^, at the 
age of sixteen, to the poet Scarron, and her 
sectmd marriage to Louis XIV of France, 
in her later years (the ceremony being 
porformed by Pere la Chaise, the king's 
confessor), are well known. 

We are sailing tonight, S., from this 
island-paradise, and as I look up at these 
bri^t ccsistdlations may the stars of the 
Southern skies salute you! 

M. P. Q. 

MEMORANDA— 1902 

On Saturday, May 8d, 1902, it was 
announced from St. Thomas (Danish West 
Indies) "that St. Pierre had been covered 
with ashes to the depth of a quarter of an 
inch as a result of the activity of Mt. P616e 



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and that the town appew^d to be enveloped 
in fog." 

Another despatch dated Hay 6th men- 
tioned "Uie flow of lava from Mt, Pelee, 
which began last Saturday" (May 8d). 

While still another despatch, also from 
St. Thomas, dated May 7th, said further 
that "cable conmiunication with the island 
of Martinique was interrupted on the morn- 
ing of May 7th, and that cable communi- 
cation southward from St. Lucia (the 
adjoining island), in the Windward Islands, 
ceased suddenly the same afternoon." 

On the 9th of May, 1902, came the follow- 
ing appalling despatch from the West 
Indies: 

"The British steamer 'Roddam,' badly 
wrecked and having lost eighteen of her 
crew, returned from St. Pierre, Martinique, 
to St. Lucia yesterday, bringing the news 
of the destruction of St. Pierre as a result 
of volcanic disturbances in the island, with 
all of its inhabitants; all the shipping in the 

port was destroyed it is believed 

that over 75,000 persons perished." 



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1897 
ENGLISH NOTES 

Letter of Miss Gaedinee 

July, 1897. 

After a delightful crossing on the "Fiirst 
Bismarck," we saw the sunrise in Plymouth 
harbor, leaving the ship at five o'clock in 
the morning. 

Before landing from the tender a letter 
was handed me. It proved to be a delight- 
ful invitation from an English friend of 
mine, to visit her in Falmouth, (uad needless 
to say, it was accepted with alacrity. The 

neighbors of Mrs. and Miss M have 

beautiful estates, and we had the oppor- 
tunity of admiring gardens where tropical 
trees and plants grow luxuriantly, owing to 
the mild climate and exceptionally advan- 
tageous situation of this pretty seaport 
town. 

Miss M accompanied us on our 

trip to Penzance and Land's End. St. 



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Michael's Mount was even more mediaeval 
and fascinating than my liveliest imagina- 
tion I^ pictured it. D., as an amateur 
photographer, bectune so oblivious to time 
and tide that we found ourselves in an awk- 
ward predicament when returning to the 
mainland. The boatman, after rowing us 
as near the shore as the shallow water per- 
mitted, was suddenly confronted with the 
necessity of wading, in order to reach terra 
firma, and politely suggested that we should 
allow him to carry us the remainder of the 
way! It was a novel means of ccmveyance, 
but the stalwart Comishman seemed to 
regard the situation as if it had been a matter 
of every-day occurrence, so his offer was 
accepted, D. going first. The ladies fol- 
lowed the latter's example and were car- 
ried, each in turn, and set down safely on 
the shore! After this amusing adventure 
we returned, by rail, to Falmouth. 

Miss M was persuaded to go with us 

into Devonshire, where we were charmed 
with the scenery and the many places of 
interest, including the quaint little village 



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of Clovelly, with its picturesque surround- 
ings made famous by Kingsley's novel of 
"Westward Hoi" It is remarkable how 
much more interesting natural scenery 
becomes when associated with a book of 
romance; another proof of the power of a 
writer of genius 1 

I remember how much you enjoyed your 
travels in this West Country. How fortu- 
nate to have had the privilege of viewing 
the Queen's Jubilee procession! You will 
delight in recalling the wonderful pageant, 
and aU that you saw in London, on this 
great occasion. 



GlJOUCESTEE, August 8tk. 

Our family have no plans, but we seem to 
be approaching London by degrees. As 
the country is so much pleasanter than town 
at this season, we are making the most of it, 
looking forward to Tintern Abbey. 

Have you seen Tintagel Castle? How 
beautiful the view is from the headland I 
We went there from Boscastle, and after- 



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wards stopped at Launcesttm to visit 
another ruined castle, not as romantic as 
that of King Arthur. 

Travelling in a landau, as the distances 
were short, we have had opportunity and 
leisure, the weather being favourable, of 
seeing everything to good advantage. 
R. "played accompaniment" on his bicycle 
and enjoyed riding, in spite of the many 
hills to ascend, finding compensation 
for the extra exertion in coasting down the 
opposite slopes. He gets over the groimd 
in an incredibly short time — often arriving 
at our common destination before us, even 
when we have made the journey by rail. It 
was amusing to see him sitting in front of 
the hotel, awaiting our arrival at Clifton, 
last Thursday when we drove up from the 
Bristol station] 

Your welcome letter reached me at Bris- 
tol, where we left our heavy luggage, and 
visited Bath, Wells, Glastonbury Abbey, 
Frome and Longleat, the seat of the Mar- 
quis of Bath, and considered the fin^t 
Elizabethan mansion in England. It is 



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certainly very beautiful and is furnished in 
the Italian style. 

Having the good fortune to reach Wells 
shortly before the anticipated visit of the 
Bishops of the Lambeth Conference, we 
remained longer than we otherwise would 
have done, in order to attend the special 
service in the cathedral. Going from Wells 
to GlastMibury for the day, we observed that 
preparations were made in the ruined abbey 
for services to be held there also. A tem- 
porary pulpit had been erected, an aisle 
down the middle of the smoothly shaven 
greensward marked with ropes for the pro- 
cession of the clergy, and benches placed on 
either hand, in rows, for the congregation. 

• * • • • 

The usually quiet town of Wells became 
quite animated on this occasion, every avail- 
able room in the vicinity of the cathedral 
was rented, and we greatly appreciated the 
impressive ceremonies. A large throng had 
assembled when the procession, led by the 
choristers and the students of Wells Theo- 
logical School, made the tour of the sacred 



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edifice. As they moved up and down the 
aisles to the strains of "The Church's 
One Foundation," every arch and vault 
resounded to the vast volume of sound cre- 
ated by many voices, singing in unison, to 
the melody of this beautiful hymn. 

The bishops made a fine appearance with 
their rich robes and jewelled crosses. An 
excellent sermon was preached by the 
Bishop of Maine, U. S. A., and there were 
several other American bishops present. 
During the offertory: "From Greenland's 
Icy Mountains," was sung, and I thou^t 
the line: "Afric's sunny fountains," came 
in very appropriately for the two black 
bishops who were there I 

Crozier in hand, the benediction was pro- 
nounced by the Bishop of Bath and Wells. 
Gloucester does not particularly interest 
me, but the cathedral is of transcendent 
grandeur. To quote from "Old Eng- 
land",* your dear uncle's book: "It com- 
prehends the whole range of English 
church architecture. Begun at the latter 

*01d England: Its Scenery, Art and People, by 
James M. Hoppin, Professor in Yale College, 1867. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 8S 

end of the XII Century and finished at t^e 
beginning of the XV, it embraces all styles. 
Its nare, foundations and crypt are Nor- 
man, of the most solid and massive character. 
The sixteen round unomamented and pon- 
derous columns of the nave are majestic. 
The repose of eternity seems to sleep under 
their shadows. The ancient Anglo-Saxon 
phrase of 'God's house,' is here well 
applied. It looks unchangeable. It is a 
place of rest." 



London, Sept., 1897. 

At last we have reached England's 
capita] I 

Arriving last Thursday, two full months 
from the date of our landing at Plymouth, 
and after constant travelling and sight- 
seeing all summer, we are glad to spend a 
quiet fortnight before setting out for the 
Continent. 

Should I have the opportunity of meet- 
ing you in Paris, how delightful it would be! 
It was at Gloucester, I believe, that I wrote 
you last — and here we left our impedimenta 



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and made a pleasant tour through the Valley 
of the Wye, Herefordshire and Worcester- 
shire, first going to Ross, a little village 
charmingly situated and made famous by 
Pope's poem: "The Man of Ross." In this 
neighborhood the river scenery is beautiful, 
deserving all the praise so lavishly bestowed 
upon it by poet, painter and prose writer. 
Following the advice given to all travellers, 
we took a boat, with two oarsmen, and went 
down the Wye to Monmouth. Here the so- 
called study-window, with quaint stone 
carving, of the historian Geoffrey of Mon- 
mouth was shown us. 

Thence to Chepstow and its ruined 
castle — Raglan, romantic and picturesque — 
forming with Tintem Abbey, in my opinion, 
the most imposing and stately remains of 
departed grandeur to be seen in England. 
At Hereford we admired the cathedral with 
its rather curious mixture of styles in archi- 
tecture — like that of Worcester — but lack- 
ing its impressiveness. To be sure Worcester 
cathedral is larger, but the sense of vast- 
ness one feels on entering is owing to an 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 86 

uninterrupted view from the nave through 
file choir, the organ having been placed in 
the south transept. At the Royal Porce- 
lain Manufactory we visited the work- 
rooms, and were much interested in the 
process, — ^which we saw in all its stages, — 
of the production of objects of the ceramic 
art. 

From Worcester we went by rail to Eves- 
ham, and then drove to Broadway, stopping 
on the road to see the tomb of Penelope 
Washington, in the parish church of Wick- 
hamford. Here may be seen the coal-of- 
arms of the Washington family, — ^with the 
stars and stripes, — the origin of our national 
flag. Broadway is off the beaten road of 
travel — far from a railway station — ^with 
antique houses. In appearance the village 
is probably the same as in Queen Elizabeth's 
reign. 

We stayed at the Lygon Arms hotel, 
where, it has been said, Charles I was at one 
time concealed, and also that Oliver Crom- 
well had been sheltered beneath its hospit- 
able roof. In fact, we were shown the room 



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he occupied, then being used as a sitting- 
room by Admiral and Mrs. D'Arcy Irvine, 
whose acquaintance we made. The Admiral 
had made many voyages and visited many 
ports, including Newport, U. S. A., on 
H. M. S. "Bellerophon" in 1878. He had 
such a store of amusing tales to relate that 
we had no lack of diversion. Next me, at 
the table, sat General Sir Frederick Man- 
sell, a charming man, who had received a 
wound in the forehead, at the siege of Delhi. 
Both the General and the Admiral are 
devoted to cycling, this being a newly 
acquired accomplishment of the latter. 

The company was small, and after dinner, 
as in a private house, the ladi^ rose first, 
leaving the gentlemen to chat over their 
coflfee. If you have never been to Broad- 
way, M. dear, I hope you will not fail to 
make an effort to see it. The surroundings 
are so unusual as one stands in the village 
street and looks about I It is as if one had 
been transported bodily two centuries back. 
The artist Millet resides in an Elizabethan 
house here, and also Mr. and Mrs. de 
Navarro (Mary Anderson) . From what I 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 87 

hear she is quite satisfied to live in this 
primitive place. 

Tewkesbury, with its beautiful abbey, 
was visited next, and it was sad to see the 
havoc wroujfht by iconoclastic hands. At 
Deerhurst, near there, we saw the oldest 
ecclesiastical edifice in England, a pie- 
Norman church, — and a chapel recently dis- 
covered in a farmhouse. 

Returning to Gloucester to gather to- 
gether our pers(mal belongings, we con- 
tinued on our way to Oxford, spending a 
week in this venerable university town, 
enjoying the privilege of lingering in its 
Gothic halls of learning, and endeavoring 
to assimilate its scholatic atmosphere, redo- 
lent of the past. 

Walking through the cloister at Christ 
Church College, we noticed a workman 
excavating a niche in the wall, and wondered 
if it was to receive the tablet you mentioned, 
in memory of your dear cousin.* 



* James Mason Hoppin, Junior, M.A., who was 
graduated from Christ Church, Oxford, in 1880. 
Died January 28, 1897. 



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I thank you very much for your vivid 
description of Alpine travel. Well do I 
know the magnificent scenery of the Shyn 
and Julier passes I The bridge, spanning, 
at a dizzy height, the deep ravine, where 
peasant children offer crystals for sale and 
catching up fragments of rock hurl them 
over the parapet as we stand listening for 
the echoing thud, when a stone strikes the 
water of the glacier stream far below. After 
this the road winds upward, iintO finally 
amid snow-clad peaks we are reminded of 
Longfellow's "Excelsiorl" 

Breathing the elixir of the frosty air, and 
hearing the jingling of the horse's bells 
while one is borne rapidly over a level stretch 
of road, it is only necessary to close the eyes 
in order to imagine one's self enjoying a 
sleigh-ride on an exhilarating day of our 
American winter. 

S. D. G. 



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THE ENGADINE 
Letteb of Mi88 Quincy 

JULIERHOF, CAMPFia, 

The Engadine, August, 1897. 

It is in truth a "happy valley," one that 
Prince Rasselas of the old Persian tale 
would have loved, that one sees from the 
white curtained window. The fleecy clouds 
are sailing in the pale blue sky and soft 
breezes are wafted up the valley from Italy, 
making one think of the winds that Dante 
loved, and of which he so often wrote 1 
There are lovely views of the lakes from 
Campf^r to Silvaplana, over which many 
would-be Izaak Waltons hover, but only 
one. Sir Montague Pollock, has had thus far 
apparent success. The catch was shown on 
the veranda of the hotel. 

I have been playing, in amateur fashion, 
the little organ in the Swiss Church, in 
readiness for next Sunday, should the Rev. 
Peploe Webb decide to take the service, as 
the young chaplain of the earlier summer 



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left for England a few days ago. We have 
arranged for the Venite and Te Deiim, 
together with the Frocessional and Reces- 
sional, and now await the hymns to be 
selected. 

There has been a deli^tful day recently, 
at Isola, a lovely rural hamlet on the Maloja 
See. We drove to Sils-Maria, charmingly 
nestled away from the lake, sheltered by 
the slope of the mountain, and then walked 
along the water's edge for not quite an hour. 
The restaurant is the old shooting-lodge of 
an Italian nobleman, who only sold it about 
sixty years ago, and is said to be two hun- 
dred years old. Quaint frescoes are <m the 
walls, while fine old pieces of carved furni- 
ture with the crest and the coat-of-wins of 
other days, are about. One of the old bed- 
steads is not unlike that with the four posts 
of our own coimtry, only in the place of the 
hangings are sliding doors or panels, shut- 
ting the sleeper in, like a box. I fancy the 
climate requires this, althou^ Diana says 
that she remembers reading of these bed- 
steads in Sir Walter Scott's novels, and it 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



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appears that they also exist, toith a roof, in 
Wales! 

Yesterday, we drove in the Ober-Engadine 
to lovely Samaden, once its capital, and had 
tea at the Hotel Bemina, with a view. We 
saw the exterior of an ancient house belong- 
ing to the von Flanta family, who have been 
associated with the history of the Grisons 
for a thousand years. The coat-of-amis 
over the door shows a tree or "plant", and 
little granite vases all around the railings of 
the garden, at intervals, have plants and 
flowers and fruit in them, carven in the 
stone. Diana sketched the old belfry with 
a singular little Muscovite roof, a quaint 
reminder of our bright day. 

Charming people are in the Engadine this 
year. The "Lessons" on Sunday were 
read by Mr. Buxton, the son of the Gov- 
ernor of South Australia, who is here with 
his wife and two small boys; also his 
pretty but delicate sister, seen at a distance, 
whose marriage took place last year at 
GU>vemment House, Adelaide. 

We walked over to St. Moritz oti Satur- 



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day for the Tennis Toumamoit in the 
grounds of the Engadiner-Kulm. The 
court is of asphalt, painted a dark green 
color, very soothing to the eyes, and the 
boards about are painted in the same har- 
monizing tint. One of our friends is to try 
to arrange a lesson for me from Morris, the 
great English (St. Andrew's) golf author- 
ity, who is in the Engadine for a little while. 
In winter, as you know, golf is played over 
the snow with red balls. And from pic- 
turesque Fontresina and St. Moritz with the 
Alpine peaks of Languard, Monteratsch, 
Roseg, Corvotsch and Bemina down the 
Maloja Valley, can one imagine, at intervals, 
a more fascinating ground for winter sports 
and tobogganing! 

Have I not already mentioned the fur 
shop at St. Moritz, about which I hover, as 
a moth around a lighted candle? It is so 
alluring I Imagine the skin of a huge 
Abyssinian lion and that of an enormous 
Russian bear, only lacking the coronet to be 
a replica of one of "Pimch's" political car- 
toms of imperial Russia herself I Swiss 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 98 

wolves, with grey-haired skins, are not far 
from the lovely chinchilla furs, of which the 
most costly are sold in groups, not sepa- 
rately. One of our friends selected a rug of 
cat-skins, very soft, and curious and warm. 
Capes of white silken Chinese lamb are much 
in evidence, while ermme vies at present with 
chinchilla in popularity. But the grande 
mode are the couvre-pieds and large rugs 
made with borders of Labrador birdskins, 
combined with the breasts of the eider duck 
(in brown) — examples of that same lovely 
Eskimo feather-work that Cousin B. 
brou^t from Labrador in the little muff 
for my aunt, when he returned from the 
cruise in the Arctic waters, not long ago. 



August Slst. 
This morning we have walked to Cres- 
talta, with a pretty outlook over the valley. 
The hours are growing precious, for on 
Monday we leave for Thusis and Coire, on 
our way to Paris. 



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94 pages in azure and gold 

Latek. 

We left the Engadine on a grey day in 
the coups and banquette of the diligence, 
arriving in time for Sunday at Coire, which 
has appe^ed irresistibly to my imagination, 
especiidly the cathedral, built in the VI 
Century under Irish influence, with quaint 
decoration and ornament. Mystic Runic 
knots and figures of men and animals, typi- 
cal of that brief but brilliant epoch in 
Ireland, when the Church sent missionaries 
not only into England, but to the far- 
away mountains of the Swiss, were here. I 
delighted to find treasures in carved wood 
in the nave and aisle, and again the ancient 
coats-of-arms appeared. 

The palace of the early prince-bishops 
adjoined the cathedral where the "Ritter- 
Sad" has a quaint appearance. Long ago 
among the representative names in the 
Canton of the Grisons (early Rhaetia) were 
those of the von Balis, von Planta, von 
Travers, and von Rhasiins families. It 
seemed strange that into the little anti- 
quarian shop at Coire, a few mementoes of 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 96 

these great names of other days should have 
found their way. An old silk^i card-case 
of pale green taffeta, lined with rose, and 
embroidered in silver thread, had <mce been 
owned by one of the von Salis group; and 
I found a lovely bit of onbroidered silk, in 
a floral design, of one of the bygone ladies 
of the Count Travers family, while a pair 
of silver plated (or copper) candlesticks 
once owned by the von Walthers completed 
a charming collection of memori^ souvenirs. 
Then we came through the fertile and 
luxuriant Rhine coimtry for the last time, 
where the noble river is young, and lies, aa 
it were cradled; leaving with a sigh and deep 
regret, a land of love, of sunshine, and of 
early Christian romance 1 

M. P. Q. 



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1898 

"ONE CAN SEE CORSICA!" 

Letter of Miss Gahdineb 

San Remo, Italy, 1897-98. 

Here am I again, in beautiful Italy, the 
country I love best in Europe! 

We reached San Remo on November 
8(Hh, coming straight from Paris, after 
spending two months there and meeting 
many of our American friends, which made 
it very pleasant for us. 

What a pity that you and I should have 
missed each other in England I If you 
arrived in London on Tuesday, September 
28th, as you expected to do, you might have 
seen me had you called the next morning at 
Long's Hotel, for we did not leave for 
Folkestone until the middle of the afternoon. 
Such is life, however; and often a great 
happiness may elude one. 

Robert started Wednesday morning, oa 
his bicycle, took tea with Coralie, at her 



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pretty home in Hildenborough, Kent, and 
arriTed at Folkestone an hour or two after 
our family and luggage had beoi installed 
in the attractive and modem hotel. We 
were there about a week, enjoying the fresh 
air from the sea, and crossed the Channel 
together, Robert leaving us at Boulogne to 
take the train for Paris, while he continued 
(HI his wheel. He stayed about a month 
with us in Paris, and then joined the "Tour- 
ing Club de Francf^' for a trip, with a 
friend, to the South, and will reach San 
Remo probably in about ten days. Writing 
from P6rigueux, in the land of truffles, he 
declares he is getting tired of pdtia, these 
dainty dishes being placed before him at 
every meal ! Toujourx perdrix! 

San Remo is a lovely spot, and the roses 
and many other flowers are in full bloom, 
but the hotels are nearly empty, for the rea- 
son that the season only begins about the 
middle of January. There are not as many 
En^ish people here, at present, as Germans, 
to whose notice the exceptionally sheltered 
situation of the old town has beai brought. 



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by the sojourn, for his health, of the late 
Emperor Frederick. The Villa Zirio, v*ere 
the illustrious patient stayed, is not far from 
the hotel in which we have taken rooms. 



On the festival of the Kpiphany, the 
weather being delightful, Mamma, David 
and I went on donkeys up the precipitous, 
tortqous streets of the oldest part of the 
town. Buttresses thrown across these nar- 
row streets give stability to the houses in 
case of earthquakes, which formerly were 
of frequent occurrence. Peasants, in gala 
dress, stood and lounged about, in pic- 
turesque attitudes, as we climbed over the 
rough pavement. 

David has brought a large camera and 
hopes to secure some good photographs. 

We have taken charming drives — going 
one day to the Church of the Madonna della 
Guardia, situated on a promontory, with a 
very extensive view, embracing the coast for 
miles. The waters of the Mediterranean 
lay stretched before us, sapphire blue. On 
the way, driving along the interesting coun- 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 99 

try-side, the deserted village of Bassano was 
pointed out to us, crowning the summit of 
a distuit Mil, the slopes of which gape with 
horrible fissures. It gives one the strangest 
impression — as though a curse rested upon 
it — and has been uninhabited since the earth- 
qu^e of 1887. With its tower still erect 
the diurch stands, apparently intact, a con- 
spicuous building amid the cluster of dilapi- 
dated houses — but no service is held there, 
the coadunan said, and he drew our attenticHi 
to a new Bassano, built nearer the sea. 

I should like to send you, for your birth- 
day, a little flask of the exquisite perfume 
called Violette de San Remo, but shall have 
to content myself with a card bearing njtceri 
auffuri. 

My Italian lessons we very absorbing 
and I find Signorina Vicario an excellent 
teacher. On one occasicm, coming as usual 
to give me my lesson, she remarked : "You 
are in simmier attire to-day I" and when I, 
to justify my selectirai of a light costume, 
spoke of the mildness of the weather, she 
explained that the natives, in order to m^e 



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100 PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD 

a distinction in the seas(His, wear dark clothes 
in winter, as we do in the North. 

While on the Riviera I have observed the 
partiality of the Anglo-Saxon for light 
clothing and white straw hats. 

We have met some very pleasuit people 
from England. At a ball given by the 
English Club, David was presented to the 
Earl of Meath, who is stopping here. 

One day it was reported that the Empress 
Elizabeth of Austria had landed, incognito, 
from the Imperial yacht, and had been seen, 
sitting in the public garden, with a lady-in- 
waiting, but holding a fan before her face, 
to conceal her features from the eyes of the 
curious. 

Robert has gone to join friends in Cor- 
sica. The island is visible for a short time 
after sunrise on clear days. I looked and 
failed to see it, owing to a veil of mist. 
Omitting to scan the horizon, it was always 
tantalizing to me if I heard someone say: 
"We are going to have fine weather; — I saw 
Corsica this morning!" However, one 
morning early, as the maid was opening my 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 101 

blinds, I asked if it were a pleasant day, — 
"O oui, MademouelU," she replied, "one 
can $ee Corsica I" and springing, to the win- 
dow, with much satisfacti(Hi, I was able to 
discern its faint outline in the rosy light. 

S. D. G. 



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PASQUALE D'ESTE 
Letter of Miss Gardiner 

Vei«ce, July Ut. 1898. 

Owing to the war* our return hone has 
been postponed until the autumn, and as you 
see, we are still lingering in beautiful Italy, 
not having, as yet, decided where to spend 
the remaining summer mtmths. 

We arrived in Rome just before Holy 
Week, leaving there the fifth of May for 
Perugia. Our stay in the Eternal City was 
most enjoyable, as we met many friends. 

Hearing that Miss W was visiting 

Madame Ceccaiini in the Via Venti Set- 
tembre, I called there one day, had a 
delightful visit, and was charmed with the 
apartment, the windows overlooking the 
gard^i of tiie Barbarini Palace, and also 
commanding a fine view of Rome. 

* The Spaoisb-Americftn War. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 108 

Historical study and sight-seeing com- 
bined, — as usual, — ^made the time pass 
rapidly. I went to admire the Colosseum 
by moonlight, and one showery day sat in 
the Forum, under an umbrella, trying to 
conjure up the "Past!" 

We were invited by Mr. James Stokes to 
the opening reception of the Young Men's 
Christian Association, founded by him, and 
through whose generosity it is hoped a class 
of young Italians, inclined toward agnos- 
ticism, may be readied. 

I think every member of the aristocracy 
— Mid in fact tout le beau 'tnonde — ^was 
present at the Villa Cdimontana, out of 
town, where I was taken by some friends, in 
their carriage, one pleasant afternoon, to 
attend a gardrai-party, given for a charitable 
purpose. 

At Perugia we thou^t the air delight- 
fully bracing after the heat of Rome. Its 
derated situation, in a mountainous country, 
should make it very salubrious as a place 
of residence. We found many objects 
of interest and the buildings had a hoary. 



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104 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

venerable appeu-ance. A visit to the 
neijrhboring town of Assisi was full of 
a certain indescribable charm; we saw 
tibe monastery where dwelt, in pious medi- 
taticHi and prayer, the beloved St. Francis, 
and were shown the spot where grew the 
thomless roses. 

After this we re-visited Florence, with its 
wonderful churches, fascinating Bargello 
and glorious galleries, generally ending 
each day in the Cascine, where, driving in 
the cool shade of the trees, we rested our 
eyes, tired with the effort of appredating so 
much beauty. 

Then to Bologna, where nightingales sing 
as of yore, and so again to Venice. Here 
the time passes most agreeably; no sound 
of fdieels to jar on the ear, and no one seems 
to be in haste. Neverthdess it is surprising 
how swifUy the boats glide over the water 
with the movement given by the slow sweep 
of the oar. Our gond(^er is very intdli" 
gent, speaks Italian well, and is familiar 
with the best native authors I He also 
knows his Venice so thoroughly that he is 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD lOS 

an excellent guide and t4^es us to see 
antiquities and works of art that escape the 
eye of an ordinary tourist, so we are greatly 
privileged. If an ancient landmark is about 
to be demolished, Fasquale, up in arms, 
writes to the newspapers and makes a vig- 
orous protest against its removal. Quite a 
chiuracter in Venice, where eVery one knows 
him, he also is of noble lineage. 

"Fasquale," said Mamma one day, "you 
belong to an illustrious family." "I am 
aware of it, Madame," he replied, "but it 
would cost me too much money to try to find 
out from which prince of the house of Este I 
descend 1" 

Life here is fascinating to anyone with 
artistic or literary aspirations, but its mo- 
not<niy might pall on the practical mind. 
It has been said that a prdonged stay 
inclines perscHis to be melancholy, but of this 
I have no proof. We, ourselves, shall be 
loath to leave the city of enchantment. 
Every day our gtmdda awaits us, and step- 
ping into it, we lean against the comfortable 
cushions, quite indifferent as to the direction 



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106 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

in which we go, but with a certain sense of 
luxury and, free from care, we feel that mere 
existence is a pleasure. 

ScHnetimes when the sun casts slanting 
rays across the lagoon, and San Giorgio's 
campanile looks redder in the evraiing 
glow, Fasquale recites a verse or two from 
Dante — and thus the hours are beguiled 
away. 

We have a comer sedon and the view from 
our bi^conies on the Grand Canal is beauti- 
ful by moonlight. Always at ev«iing, the 
boats, with colored lanterns, come gliding 
down, and one can listen to the strains of 
"Santa Lucia," and "Bella Napoli" sung 
by musical societies, one of which is the 
Societa deUa Sirhna. 

Next to the Grand Hotd is the Desde- 
mona Palace, where Mr. Hargous has an 
apartment, and entertains a great deal. He 
gave a dinner-party, of fourteen, last even- 
ing. An Englishman took me in, and at my 
left sat the Prince di San Faustino, who 
is in this hotel with his American wife. 



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David took in the ^Contessina Maria Gian- 
notti. 

Did I tell you that D. was awarded a 
gold medal in the competition of amateur 
photographers at Monte Carlo? His work 
was unusually good, as no pains were spared 
in selecting the most picturesque spots on 
the Riviera, and in finding satisfactory 
models to pose. 

S. D. G. 

" Since married to Conte Balbis dl Sambn^. 



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AN ANCESTRAL ESTATE AT 
LITCHFIELD 

Letteb of Miss Quinct to a. Relatite 



Cbotiand, Litchfield, 

August 2Sd, 1898. 
In the lovely li^t of a summer afternoon, 
when the leaves of the double row of linden 
trees* before my great-grandfather's stately 
house are still, the soft winds, that gently 
rustle them, haviBg died down, one has 
pleasure in thinking of the tales of long ago, 
when the mansion was first planned, seven 
years after the Treaty of Paris, that ctm- 
finned our American Indep»idence, had 
been signed, and during the three years 
thereafter that it required in building (1790- 
1708). Mr. Julius Deming of Litchfield, 
dear Mamma's grandfather, had chosen this 
beautiful spot for his home with the fa9ade 
of his Georgiui house looking towards the 

* The name of the estate, "The Lindena," Is taken 
from these trees. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 109 

west, while the views of the eastern hills and 
the sunrise became features of the jpreat 
upper rooms at the east. 

The architect was a Scotsman who came 
over with the British Army to subdue the 
Colonies in revolt, but who afterwards 
remained in the new Republic, and here 
resumed his profession. His knowledge of 
Georgian architecture was singularly true; 
accurate in proportion, with perfect sym- 
metry in the Greek ornament that he 
loved. Together with a nice balance of 
space and height, these qualifications were 
united in a high degree, the result being that 
this stately house was quoted, as an example 
of its type, in the early books on American 
bouses and architecture. 

The Corinthian chimney-piece with tym- 
panum and tiny pilasters ; carefully placed, 
hand-wrought modillions and dentils; the 
beautifully panelled doors and wainscoting 
of the drawing-room; the rarely designed 
fanlij^t brought expressly for his hcnne 
by my great-grandfather from !Eng- 
land (the panache of the Prince of Wales 



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no PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

is still visible in the tracery) ; the staircase, 
with the carefully polished mahogany balus- 
trade, and the scroll pattern of the same 
precious wood on each tread of the stairs, all 
gave the required note of exquisite detail to 
the conception of the plan. I know not how 
to tell you of the Falladio window, framed 
by Corinthian pilasters, with the hand- 
wrought nails from England, of the massive 
oaken beams of support beneath the floors, 
of the triple depth of wall, of the heavily 
panelled doors with polished silver-plated 
knobs and their 'scutcheons, with strong 
keys for security. While the great hinges, 
pointed at the tips, of the solid front door 
were massive indeed, — and being laid nearly 
across the width of the door, seemed like 
protecting arms I 

Mr. Deming, having been bom in 
America when the Colonies were still imder 
English rule, regarded a cultivated interest 
in tie English history of his day as an essen- 
tial requirement, and in his mercantile enter- 
prises that necessitated frequent intercourse 
with London he did not fail to avail himself 



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of the advantages of the moment in this 
respect. Being in the possession of a large 
fortwie he embellished the walls of his home 
with the engravings of the day from Eng- 
land. One series of pictures, added after his 
death by his children, represents the young 
Queen Victoria in her coronation robes at 
the age of eighteen, together with her coro- 
nati(Hi at Westminster Abbey, while that of 
the young Queen's marriage to the Prince 
Consort forms yet another august scene. 
How often have I stood before these engrav- 
ings in my childhood, breathlessly identify- 
ing the entourage of the royal guests both in 
the Abbey and in the Chapel Royal of St. 
James's Pidace, and delighting in the superb 
Homton lace of the young Queen's wed- 
ding gown and veill 

I will not linger over the massive 
Georgian sUver tea-service, and other plate; 
the stately mahogany chairs of the hall; the 
long sofa with the lion's claws and eagle's 
vrings above the feet; the beautiful giran- 
doles of the drawing-room, with long crystal 
prisms; the heavy brass fire-dogs and fire 



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tongs from England; and everywhere costly 
furniture, all chosen with the utmost nicety 
and discernment by my great-grandfather, 
whose love of the beautiful was innate. 

The family miniatures and portraits give 
great beauty to the four stately dau^ters, 
and distinction to the scms. 

But I have not told you of the garden 
with its path and borders of flowers that, 
after the most devoted care of half a century, 
rewarded my great-aunts with the glow of a 
perpetual bloom of color — the pride and joy 
of the daughters of the race! As a child, I 
loved the spice-like perfume of the quaint 
white Aim^e Vibert rose, that grew in 
seclusion below the low granite terrace, while 
tall lattices of southern exposure, gave a 
backgroimd for the climbing rose and honey- 
suckle where bees and butterflies seemed to 
linger all day longt 

There were orchards and woodlands that 
were a part of the estate. One chestnut 
plantation was especially planted by my 
great-grandfather from selected nuts, under 
his own supervision. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD lU 

To return to the old mansion, I cannot 
forget that my first meeting with my f rioid, 
Miss Gardiner (herself the only daughter of 
dear Mamma's early friend) was in the for- 
mal drawing-room, where the carved rose- 
wood furniture and beautiful carpet of 
royal Wilton, true velvet to the light 
touch of a lady's foot, seemed a charming 
entourage for the long imbroken friendship 
that has followed for us eachl 

To this statdy and well-bdoved home my 
little brother John and I came to visit our 
great-aunt. Miss Lucretia Deming, each 
autumn of our early childhood with dear 
Papa and Mamma. In the red-leaved Sep- 
tember days we rode gaily on our horses, a 
groom in attendance, far over the country 
roads, merrily cantering across the level 
ways or permitted by the careful Marshall 
one long gallop over the hi^way of the 
distant plain 1 

The collection of books in the rosewood 
bookcase that included two rows of Sir 
Walter Scott's novels, together with the 
stately conversation of dear Mamma's aunt. 



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114 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

(who was a grande dame of tiie olden time) 
and the exquisite repose that rested over 
household and jptnmds, are an ineffaceable 
part of our childhood's life. 

To-day, as the long summer shadows fall 
across the lawns (for we have had beautiful 
weather) one feels that the Past receives 
anew a benedictitm that is recognized and 
lored by every son and daughter of the later 
generaticms of the race! 

M. P. Q. 



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1899 
OVER SUMMER SEAS 
Letter of Miss Gabdinee 

Aix-le8-Bain8, Savoie, Fbance, 
July SSrd, 1899. 

We arrived here last Tuesday, the eight- 
eenth of the month, and the very date we 
had purposed sailing from America; thus 
you will see how much time has been gained 
by an earlier departure. 

Mamma has already begun her treatment, 
and when she shall have finished the course 
of baths — a few weeks hencse — we can go to 
an after-cure before the season is over. 

But I must tell you about our deli^^tful 
South Atlantic trip, so smooth that no one 
had any excuse for being ill. In fact, the 
passengers kept up their spirits, enjoying 
two dances on deck; one celebrating the 
Fourth of July, while the other took place 
on the evening before the ship reached 
Naples. A concert given in the cabin 



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116 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

proved a great success. Several accom- 
plished musicians were on board; among 
them. Chevalier Tirandelli, an Italian vio- 
linist of note, added a special attraction to 
the programme. 

One did not mind the length of the voyage 
as the summer seas were so calm, but the 
northward trend of travd at this time of the 
year made it seem like reaching Europe 
through a side entrance I 

The Azores interested me greatly, and 
running within two miles of the coast of San 
Miguel, we could see the houses and fac- 
tories quite distinctly, in the town of Ponte 
Delgada. 

Judging from the cultivated fields, the 
wooded hills, scattered hamlets, and wind- 
mills, the islands appeared quite fertile. 
Afterwards, when we continued our course, 
no longer any land in sight, for nearly two 
days, it seemed as though we had seen merely 
a mirage — phantom isles, as it were, rising 
from the Atlantic t 

On Sunday, late in the afternoon, we 
sighted Cape St. Vincent, and, wafted on the 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 117 

breeze, there came to us, though several 
miles out at sea, the fragrance of chamomile 
flowers growing on the cliffs of Portugal. 

Over the Rock of Gibraltar the sun rose 
gloriously, the next morning, just before 
entering the Straits. Finally the "Aller" 
dropped anchor in the placid waters of 
the bay. Being obliged to remain in port 
several hours, to take in coal, the ship's 
company had made arrangements for the 
passengers to go on shore sight-seeing. 

With some pleasant acquaintances we 
formed a party, consisting of a clergyman 
and his wife from Virginia, two pretty girls 
with their mother, from the same state, and 
Lieutenant Carlo di Luca, of the Italian 
navy. 

Up and down the hilly streets at a lively 
rate of speed, we went, in two funny little 
carriages, and, considering the early hour 
of our visit, no doubt the natives were sur- 
prised at the sudden invasion, for we met 
"Aller" people everywhere, like us, dashing 
about to make the most of their time. In 
fact, we besieged the fortifications, "paT- 



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118 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

leyed" with the soldiers of the garriscm, and 
looked down from those heights on our good 
ship, shining brilliantly white on the blue 
surface of tiie Mediterranean. 

In the markets the touches of color were 
fascinating, but tantalizmg to an artist's 
eye, for no pictures were allowed to be made, 
and an American girl, one of the passengers, 
who attempted to sketch something in the 
town, found herself nearly under arrest. 

When, at Gibraltar, did you observe the 
strong ccttitrast between the fair com- 
plexions of the English and the olive and 
bronze of the Spaniard and Moor? 

How gracefully the native girls tripped 
along, with a single rose tucked coquettishly 
in their hair, — and what a revelation the 
varied costumes and picturesqueness of it all 
must have been to those who had crossed the 
sea for the first timel It interested me to 
notice, after we had returned to the ship, at 
dinner that evening, here and there a girlish 
head with tresses adorned d I'espagnole. 

Most of the passengers left the boat at 
Naples, where we had time to do some shop- 



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FACES IN AZURE AND GOLD IIB 

pin^, before ccntinuing our voyage to 
Genoa. 

The view of this city was most attractive 
as we steamed up to the wharf. The Cap- 
tain, who had been very kind and attentive 
to us (we had enjoyed the luxury of his 
cabin and sat at his table), helped Mamma 
down the gang-plank after the noise and 
confusion were over and nearly everyone had 
landed. Two days later we left the "City 
of Merchant Princes" for Turin, where we 
stayed long enough to visit the Finacoteca 
and the cathedral, finally reaching our 
destination through the Mont Cenis timnel. 

Aix-les-Bains, vUle d^eau SUgante, on the 
Lake of Bourget, has a fashionable French 
atmosphere in the heart of Savoy, — as one 
could fancy an old Italian jewel harmo- 
nizing with a dress of latest Parisian design. 

S. D. G. 



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A BUNCH OF CYCLAMEN 
Letteb of Miss Gasdinek 

Aix-les-Bains, Satoie, 
Augutt-September, 1899. 

Among many pleasant excursi<ais in the 
neighborhood, the most interesting, from a 
historical point of view, is that to llie old 
Abbaye d'Hautecombe, situated in a roman- 
tic spot to which one goes by boat. Visitors 
are made welcome to the chapel, where lie 
entombed princes of Savoy, reigning over 
this province when it belonged to Italy — 
and the white-robed mtmks, as one sees them 
performing various tasks about the grounds, 
appear to lead a happy life. The abbey 
itself is plainly visible across the lake, from 
my window, by the morning light, but Is 
always lost in the afternoon shadows. 

One of the season's events, in this pretty 
place, is the Bataille de Fleurs, and I par- 
ticularly enjoyed throwing bouquets and 
driving in the long parade of carriages, 
though ours was not decorated to compete 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD ISl 

for any of the prizes. These were beauti- 
fully painted banners. 

In the judges' stand, with several promi- 
nent people — among whom I noticed Lady 
Randolph Churchill — was King Greorge of 
Greece, who took part in the fun, enthusias- 
tically; — tossing several bouquets into our 
carriage. 

Endosed you will find a few cyclamen 
bl(»soms that I saved and pressed for you. 
Remember t They have been held in a royal 
hand I 

The cyclamen is associated with Aix-les- 
Bains, and one will notice in the coifeur'g 
windows quite a display of extracts and 
essences, in dainty little fiasks, and powders 
scented with the aromatic fragrance of this 
Alpine plant, which is sold in all the florist's 
shops. 

When we drove back from the "field of 
battle" an entire population seemed to have 
assembled in the streets awaiting the return 
of tiie carriages. 

Earlier in the season we met some delight- 
ful English people: Sir William and Lady 



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122 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

Roberts-Aust^i with their niece, Miss 
Lois . He is a distinguished metal- 
lurgist, knows many scientific men, indud- 
iog our friend. Professor O. C. Marsh, of 
Yale University, whom he spoke of having 
met in Bristol, Engluid, last year, — uid has 
been in America. Lady Austen was two 
months in Chicago, with Lady Aberdeen, 
before the Colimibian Exposition opened. 
She is, besides being attractive, a broad- 
minded woman, taking an interest in poli- 
tics and the education of the poor. They 
both appeared to like America and have cor- 
dially invited us to lunch with them when we 
go to London. 



September. 
Mamma has resumed her baths after a 
fortnight's absence in Switzerland, We 
find the seasrai waning and the weather 
cooler. In Greneva we had the pleasure of 
meeting old friends, and at Caux, sur Mon- 
treux, feasted our eyes on a magnificent 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 128 

view of Lake Leman. I thought of Byron's 
poem, and of y<mt when I looked down 
upon "a little isle," with three trees, near 
the castle of ChiUon. 

It was at Caux that the beautiful Em- 
press Elizabeth of Austria was staying a 
year ago, just before she met her terrible 
fate. If you should read the "Martyrdom 
of an Empress," with its pathetic details of 
those last days, you will find it rery 
absorbing, as I did. 

Mamma's health is much improved with 
the cure, I am happy to say, and we shall 
probably soon take our departure, 

S. D. G. 



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1900 

SNOW AND SUNSHINE AT 

CANNES 
Lexteb of Miss Gaxdinxb 

Hotel Feince de Galles, 
Cannes, France, March, i900. 

The winter is over now, but how many 
climatic surprises were in store for visitors 
to the Riviera! Arriving on December 
20th, a beautiful day, only to be followed 
by cloudy weather, with dampness and rain 
for weeks, we awoke one morning to find 
everything covered with snow! 

D. rose early and hurried downstairs with 
his camera, to photograph the fairy-like 
scene, — for indeed the white frosted pidm- 
trees made an unusud and charming pic- 
ture, — but he was confronted by Madame la 
propridtaire, who besought him, with tears 
in her eyes, not to take any photographs. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD ISO 

She evidently feared that D. would send 
these snow-scenes to his friends, views of 
Cannes, inauspicious in character, for a 
successful season I 

When the sun shines, it is enchanting — 
but as soon as his face is hidden, one shivers, 
glad of a fur-lined cloak, and quite an 
uncanny sensation is experienced at the sight 
of a border of scarlet geraniums freely 
sprinkled with snow-flakes 1 

This hotel is visited every year by 
H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge, who 
never fails to come, if only for a few days, 
and the proprietors esteem this royal 
patronage a distinctive honor. 

Madame's son was at the station to wel- 
come the august visitor, who, driving rapidly 
up the hill in a landau, found the young man 
already standing at the entruice waiting to 
receive the cousin of England's Queen, with 
all due courtesy and ceremony. At the time 
of the Carnival especial taste in decorating 
a motor-car was noticed. It belonged to a 
lady from Edinburgh, who competed for 
a prize in the parade of Automobiles 



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126 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

fleuries, and invited Miss H. (an Ameri- 
can girl), and myself, to sit with her. The 
effect was charming, we were told after- 
wards. Garluids of white gilly-flowers and 
purple violets depended from fom* lances, 
bearing the coat-of-arms of Cannes, and we, 
the occupants, excepting the chauffeur, were 
dressed in white, with huge "bouquets de 
corsage" of violets to match those in our 
straw hats. The Scotch lady was delisted 
to finally become the winner of a painted 
banner, marked: "first prize," which we 
bore aloft, in triumph, to the hotel, where 
the patrons shared our enthusiasm. 

On Mardi Gras our family was invited by 
Dr. B to see the pageant from his bal- 
cony, and it was amusing to throw confetti 
on the grotesque figures in the street below. 
Fortunately the weather was mild, and the 
wind did not blow as on the day of the 
automobile parade. 

The feverish animation of the Carnival is, 
at present, a thing of the past, and Cannes 
has regained its former state of repose. 



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With some friends, who made a pleasant 
party, Z have been to the Island of Sainte 
Marguerite, where the "Man with the Iron 
Mask" was imprisoned. The fortress is in 
existence and its mystery still unscdred. 
There was even a mysterious atmosphere 
pervading the gloomy pine- woods, where we 
strolled. The gnarled tree trunks are bent, 
owing to the prevalence of high winds, and 
vaguely su^^^st Dante's Inferno, as repre- 
sented by Gustave Dora's pictures. 

We went one day, in a carriage, to the 
town of Grasse, and were initiated into the 
process of the manufacture of perfumery. 
I was quite ignortmt of the working of the 
^igines and cylinders, until it was explained 
at the distillery of Bruno Court, and I felt 
quite shocked to see the beautiful violets 
placed in lard. 

We bought some vials of extracts, attrac- 
tively packed to tempt visitors. 

Spring is well advanced — the tdmond 
trees have lately been a mass of pink bloom, 
and even before Saint Valentine's Day, 



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128 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

fresh bird voices were heard in the g&rdm — 
winged messengers, that perhaps, who 
knows ? had just crossed the sea from 
Algeria. 

In April we expect to return to Paris, and 
are looking forward to the Exposition. 

S. D. G. 



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THE PARIS EXPOSITION 

Letteb of Miss Gardiner 

Paris, July, 1900. 

The Syrian embroidery is lovely 1 I 
admire it exceedingly for tiie happy combi- 
naticHi of color, and shall carry it about with 
me in my travels, as a constant reminder of 
a dear friend, who, once more, has sent 
birthday congratulations. 

We have been in Paris since April 20th, 
oijoying social life, besides visiting the 
Exposition in a leisurely way. I have not 
tried to see the whole of it, confining my 
attention chiefly to the things that interest 
me most — thus getting more pleasure and 
experiencing less fatigue. 

As one drives in the Champs Elys^es, the 
buildings— of huge dimensions and grace- 
ful architectural lines — in the ExpositicHi 
grounds make a coup ctoeU charmani, an 
ideal scene, with the Invalides in the dis- 



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ISO PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

timce. Mid nearer, the Pont Alexandre III. 
It suggests, with the generous gilding of 
dome, cup<da, pinnacle and gigantic statue, 
"the golden city of tiie Incas," sou^t by 
Amyas Lei^. 

Perhaps these thoughts carry one far 
from Paris, — and yet it is difficult to con- 
centrate the attention here — one's actual 
surroimdings tend to make a dreamland of 
*'la xnlle lumxhre." Nearly every country in 
the world is represented, and the artistic 
furangement of certain exhibits excite 
admiration and wonder. 

Objects of public and domestic utility are 
made even beautiful and attractive to the 
eye. 

Open doors of pavilions reveal long vistas 
of marvelous machinery. Various engines 
of brass, copper, iron or steel, of latest inven- 
tion, are displayed by large manufacturing 
firms, the operation of each, and their 
respective merits, being willingly explained 
by persons in charge — all most interesting 
to sciaitific minds, but my steps usually lead 
me in the direction of the picture-galleries. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD l«I 

The work of our American painters com- 
pares very favorably with that exhibited by 
other nations. At the Grand Palais are 
masterpieces of French art. I spent one 
afternoon delightfully with friends. Visit- 
ing first the Ptdai* des CoHume», we saw 
fashions illustrated by wax figures, in a 
series of tableaux, representing different 
epochs of history, the study of which was 
really an education, and afterwards we went 
to the Swiss viUage. 

Sitting at a little table in front of a dimin- 
utive restaurant we partook of chocolate 
and watched the cows, with soriorous bells 
(reminiscent of Alpine pastures), as they 
were driven slowly through a narrow street. 
Such huge creatures I never saw in Switzer- 
land, and am positive they had been espe- 
cially selected, from various herds, an 
account of their size. Everything else, 
however, was in miniature and most illu- 
sively natural. There was a tiny public 
square, — ^with a monument in the centre, — 
there was a waterfall and a mill, surrounded 
by rocks, partly artificial, — and grassy 



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182 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

slopes, with chMets, and a chapel, all so 
cleverly placed that foreground, middle dis- 
tance and perspective completely deceived 
the eye, and one could imagine oneself in 
the country represented, but for the lack of 
mountain air I 

The peasants, in their native costumes, 
added much to the attractive ensemble. 

There are many Americans in Pwis, and 
on Decoration Day about two hundred 
people were present at the ceremonies in 
honour of La Fayette. 

It was a long drive out to the Ficpus 
Cemetery, which is very old, — enclosed by 
high walls, and entered through an arched 
gateway — having the appearance of a burial 
ground that has beoi in disuse for many 
years. Among the beautiful floral offer- 
ings laid on the grave was an exquisite 
wreath of pink roses sent by the Colonial 
Dames of America. 

General Horace Porter, our Ambassador, 
whose dignified bearing and tall, ccnnmand- 
ing figure made him the cynosure of all 
eyes, delivered an appropriate address, to 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 188 

which Monsieur de la Fayette replied, 
expressing in a few graceful words, his 
gratification at the respect shown the mem- 
ory of the valiant officer, his distinguished 
and revered kinsman. 

On June twentieth the Colonial Dames 
met at the apartment of the Comtesse de 
Laugiers-Villars on the Boulevard Saint 
Germain. Here the project of forming a 
Paris chapter was discussed, and decided 
upon. 

In the Place d*I^na, on July third, was 
unveiled the Washington Monument, a gift 
to France from the women of America. 
Cream-coloured hangings, bordered with 
festoons of natural oak leaves, in classic 
style, sheltered the spectators, in the tribune, 
from the hot rays of the sun. The chairs 
were gilt, upholstered in red velvet, fau- 
temU in the front row having be^i reserved 
for those taking an active part in the cere- 
monies, and for the prominent American 
women, by whose efforts subscriptions had 
been raised. 

Mamma and I, as Colonial Dames, had 



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1S4 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

received an invitation to be present, and we 
«i joyed every detail of the programme, 
which began at 10.80 A. M., with "The Star 
Spangled Banner," played by Sousa's 
band. Then General Porter made an ad- 
dress, in French, followed by the American 
ccmsul formally presenting the statue to the 
French Republic, in whose name it was 
accepted by Monsieur Chaill6-Long, min- 
istre de» affaires 6trangh-eg. The latter, in 
his speech, sketched the life of Washington. 
The statue was unveiled to the air of "Hail 
to the Chief," and the ceremonies ended 
with: "The Stars and Stripes Forever." 
Next me, in the audience, sat an old French 
lady, who told us that she was a great-grand- 
niece of M<mtcalm, the hero of Quebec. 

She informed us that she had been 
admitted on the ticket of the Mmre of the 
ArTondi»»efnent, who, himself, had taken no 
notice of the invitation, as it had not been 
addressed in proper form. "Do you know," 
she said, "this statue has been severely criti- 
cised?" — "No," I answered, "vrmment! I 



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have heard nothing, but," — ^half-apologeti- 
cally — "the attitude, with sword upraised, as 
you see, represents Gtener^ Washington 
taking command of the American Army." — 
"Eh bien" she returned gravely, "U ne 
devrtdt pag commander en Framcer 

S. D. G. 



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THE INTERMITTENT SPRING 
Letteb of Miss Gabdineb 

Fabis, October 3d, 1900. 

Such a crowded Paris 1 We axe back 
again from our vUligiature to find the capi- 
tal filled with tourists of all nationalities, 
many French people from the provinces, and 
a few English are beginning to show thon- 
selves, realizing, after steadily avoiding the 
Exposition in the spring and summer, that 
now is their last opportunity of seeing it. 

The weather has be«i so mild that the 
horse-diestnuts in the Champs Elys6es 
have budded afresh. It is an odd sight I 
Branches, with blossoms, in all the glory of 
springtime appear, on the same tree, witli 
withered autumn leaves. 

We spent seven weeks at Alx-les-Bains, 
meeting the usual visitors — ^who, like the 
swallows, return every yew, — luid making 
several charming excursicsis. 

M(»t delightfully vivid, in my mind, is 



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the varied scenery of the Lake of Annet^, 
where we went one day. Mountains rise 
from the very edge of this enchanting sheet 
of water, with their sunny slopes reflected (Hi 
its bosom, and our boat described a serpen- 
tine course to follow the curve of bay and 
cove. 

On my return I told Moimeur le docteur 
iha.t I thought it rivalled, in picturesqueness, 
the Lake of Boiu'get. He, naturally, de- 
fended the latter, praising the grandeur of 
its setting, in character more majestic, being 
on a larg^ scale. "The Lake of Annecy — 
Abl yes, it is pretty, mau — c'e»t I'OpSra 
Comquel" 

Another day we visited, with frioids, a 
wonderful intermittent spring. From tiie 
landing at Hautecombe, on the opposite side 
of the lake, a short walk led us to a still, little 
pool at the foot of a moimtain, in a wood- 
land dell, fragruit with the breath of ferns 
and mosses. "How much a botanist would 
eajay this placet" exclaimed a young Eng- 
lishman of the party, — and indeed, sdentist, 
poet, painter or gypsy, — anyone, in fact. 



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would have been charmed with its sylvan 
beauty, so potent was the sway of Dame 
Nature here. 

Figuratively, "by cool Siloam's shady 
rill," and literally, by this "pool of 
Bethesda," we sat down, and wmted for 
"the moving of the waters." 

Presently a gur^ing, rushing sound was 
heard, and — from a cavity in the mountain- 
side — clear as crystal, bubbled forth a 
stream, in which, for a refreshing draught, 
we dipped a glass givai us by the custodian 
of the abbey. 

Again, in a moment, the water ceased to 
flow, and the pool relapsed into its previous 
state of placidity. The intervals lost fifteen 
minutes, and the source of the spring has 
not been discovered. As an experiment, 
ducks were cmce placed in the opening — they 
entered, never to return I — Curious, is it not? 

One beautiful August aftemocm we drove 
to the Chateau de Bordeau, formerly a 
bunting-lodge of the Princes of Sav<^. 
From the terrace a charming view of the 
lake is obtained. Later we had tea at the 



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village inn, returning to Aix in time to dress 
for dinnCT. 

For change of air, we went to Evian, on 
the French shore of the Lake of Geneva, a 
watering-place frequented by the haute 
nobletae of France. At the music hour, 
visitors gather in the attractive grounds of a 
pretty casino. One sees the grande dame, 
of an afternoon, sitting near the kioak or 
handstand, working on her hroderie or her 
tapi»»erie, listening to the selections played 
by the musicians, and c(»iversing quietly 
with friends. A contrast to Aix, with its 
frivolity — whose fair habitu6eg are never 
seen with a needle in hand, — their spare time 
being given to the coiffeur and the manicure! 

Three weeks passed restfuUy at Evian, 
and then, one calm September day, we took 
the boat to Geneva, where we lingered a 
little while before turning our steps toward 
Paris. Count Gabriel Diodati, our relative, 
had invited us to a luncheon-party at the 
Hdtel Beau Rivage, at Ouchy, which we 
crossed the lake from Evian to attend; and 
we again accepted his hospitality, enjoying 



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uiother delightful luncheon at his hcHne in 
Geneva. 

At Dijon, where we stopped to break the 
journey, we saw the magnificent tombs of 
Jean sans Peur and Philippe le Hardi. 

We are now settled in Paris, for at least 
a month, but have not yet decided whether 
we shall return to America this autumn or 
not. 

S. D. G. 



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1901 

PAU-BIARRITZ: GOOD FRIDAY 
AT FUENTERRABIA 

Lettee of Miss Gardineb 

Pau-Biaeettz, 1901. 

At Pau, on dear days, during this un- 
usually cold winter, the lofty chain of the 
Pyrenees has been a dream of beauty I In 
their white purity, the snow-covered peaks 
seemed to rise, on the distant horizon, to 
unattainable heights. 

"I will lift up mine eyes unto the 
hiUs" .... With these words of Scrip- 
ture, on February second, the occasion of a 
memorial service for Queen Victoria, the 
Rector of Holy Trinity began his sermon. 
Without, the church was draped in black; 
immediately above the entrance the initial 
V, in white, being placed with the Royal 
Standard and Unicm Jack, while within, the 
chancel also was hung in black, and a huge 
cross of white flowers idone adorned the 



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altar. There was a large congregation 
present, nearly every English person wear- 
ing mourning, and I noticed the Prifet wid 
a distinguished French general among the 
town officiids. Several clergymen took part 
in the service, which was very impressive. 

On MfU'ch 80th my brother D. and I, 
after an early luncheon, went by rail up the 
Valley of Uie Gave to Lourdes, and found 
this place of pilgrimage picturesquely sit- 
uated in a beautiful country, but most mod- 
em in appearance. We saw the churches 
and the grotto, where we drank, from a 
little spring, delicious water, believed to pos- 
sess remarkable curative properties, — and 
returned to Pau in time for dinner. 

Having already, in a previous letto* to 
you, touched upon social life, and mentioned 
deli^tful receptions, where one hears the 
two languages, English and French, equally 
weU spoken, my description of this Beamais 
city, beloved of Henri IV, would not be 
complete without a word as to its climate. 

Of all the ataiions Shiver that I have 
visited in Europe, Pau is, without exception. 



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the most sheltered from high winds and free 
from dust, — this latter advantage is owing 
to the frequency of rain. However, the 
experienced traveller soon becomes accus- 
tomed to vagaries of weather, and though 
missing the parterres of Nice, will find a 
selection of cut flowers from the Riviera on 
sale in the florist's shops. 

The public squares are planted with 
palms, of vigorous growth, that attest the 
mildness of the temperature, but the spring 
being late this year, other trees that shed 
their leaves were still bare, on the first of 
April, whoi we left for Biarritz. 

As the train approached Bayonne, a ten- 
der green showed itself on all the budding 
branches, and we alighted to find Biarritz in 
a whirl of gaiety, — quite a contrast to what 
it was in early winter. The Hotel du Palais, 
formerly the villa of the Empress Eugenie, 
is crowded, and at dinner one sees only 
smartly dressed people. 

You will remember that we stayed, when 
we were here before, at the Hotel Victoria, 
where we had the pleasure of meeting Lord 



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and Lady Napier and Ettrick. They are 
still in Biarritz, so Robert and I went to call 
upon them. There was a ball given that 
evening and we saw Lady N. and E. in full 
dress, and wearing her exquisite pearls, 
though she said she had no intention of 
attending the ball. In her salon we met 
Lady McKenzie, a charming woman, and 
sister to the beautiful Georgiana, Countess 
of Dudley. 

Last week was held the annufd bazaiu*, in 
which charitable sale the Misses Fringle take 
a lively interest. Two of these ladies were 
assisting at the tea-table when I was there. 
A chance in a raffle for a handsome pearl 
bracelet, presented by Queen Natalie of 
Servia, was irresistible, and I also bought a 
ticket for a play acted by amateurs — an 
amusing little comedy, called: "Petticoat 
Perfidy." 

At Fuenterrabia, on the other side of the 
Spanish frtmtier, we were spectators of a 
most interesting religious procession on 
GJood Friday. Leaving the train at Hen- 
daye, where the Bidassoa expands into a 



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kind of bay, we were taken in a small boat, 
and landed at the foot of a hill on which 
stands this ancient city. Walking up the 
incline, luid passing tbrou^ an arched gate- 
way, we found ourselves in a narrow street, 
lined on either hand with houses, bearing 
sculptured coats-of-arms over Uie doors, and 
lui air of departed grandeur. Animated 
groups were gathering from all directions to 
view the solenm pageant that, on this one 
day in the year, draws so many striuigers 
within the walls of the mediaeval town. 

From a balcony we looked down on the 
moving throng before the procession began. 
Several pretty women were strolling up and 
down together, and presently they entered 
a house and appeared on a balcony opposite 
ours. Leaning over the balustrade, they 
were so characteristically Spanish in their 
mantUlaB, and held their fans and sunshades 
so gracefully, that they made a charming 
picture, worthy of the admiration of a 
modem Don Quixote. 

The house where we were sheltered 
seemed very clean and tidy. My slight 



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knowledge of Italian, which language 
resembles the Spanish, »iabled me to make 
myself miderstood by our hostess. Her 
own friends shared the balcony with us, and 
one of these ladies spoke French. They 
were all most kind and considerate, but we 
refrained from enlightening them as to our 
nationality!* 

It is scarcely necessary, dearest M., to 
describe in detail this religious procession, 
for you have seen similar ones while in Seville 
during the Semana Suita. Waxen images 
of saints and martyrs, bedecked with jewels, 
were dressed in gorgeous robes and borne 
by priests and monks, who had taken them 
from the churches to receive homage from 
the faithful. Citizens in sombre garb, and 
with solenm mien, were carrying lighted 
tapers, and even small children had been 
called into the ranks. Saint Michael was im- 
personated by a boy in full armour, with 
wings and upraised sword, who advanced in 
measured strides, leading a band of angels. 

•This was just after the Spanish- American War. 



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These little cherubs were kept in order, 
whenever the procession halted, by an occa- 
sional bon-bon popped into each rosy mouth 
hy a man, acting as corporal, who marched 
beside than. 

Altogether the scene was most impressive, 
and we spent an interesting day. 

Fuent«rrabia is associated by lovers of 
romance with Roncevalles, and tiie sound of 
Roland's horn, but, as a matter of fact, the 
historic battlefield is nearly forty miles 
away I 

On day we wait in a carriage, with 
some English friends from Biarritz, to the 
"Refuge," near Bayonne, a convent-school 
for orphan girls, who are taught to do fine 
embroidery on linen. The work-room, the 
church with its cloisters, and the green- 
house, where the Sisters cultivate plants and 
flowers to sell, were each, in turn, visited. 
Afterwards we drove to the Convent of the 
Bemardines or Silent Sisters. Alighting 
at the entrance gate we observed a notice to 
the effect that visitors were expected to 
speak in low tones, and we continued on foot 



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through an avenue of trees leading to the 
buildings. A melancholy atmosphere, that 
weighed on one's spirits, seemed to pervade 
the place. We were shown a small chapel, 
with thatched roof, constructed by the nuns 
themselves, — the refectory also, and sleep- 
ing cells. The cemetery was most pathetic 
with its rows of nameless graves — each one 
simply marked with a cross of scallop shells 
laid on the ground. 

Soon, too soon, we are leaving for Paris, 
but shall carry with us memories of soft 
breezes, restful days, and lovely moonlight 
nights on the Bay of Biscay. 

S. D. G. 



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THE FAIR LAND OF FRANCE 
Letter of Miss Gaedinek 

Aix-ubs-Bainb, Satoie, 

Jvly S4th, 1901, 

Before coming to Aix this summer we 
made a little tour, stopping in the provincial 
towns of France, to see the various objects 
of historical interest. Leaving Paris on 
June 26th, we spent two or three days at 
Blois, and from there visited the neighbor- 
ing chateaux of Chaumont, Chevemy, and 
Beauregard. 

Chaumont we found in a fine state of pres- 
ervation, and the room once occupied by 
Catherine de Medicis was completely fur- 
nished. A prie-dieu, on which rested the 
queen's prayer-book, was placed beside the 
antique bed, and a quaint ewer and basin 
were set on a washstand — all "auihentique" 
we were told. One could scarcely realize 
the lapse of years since the royal personage 
was in possession. 

In Diane de Poitier's room hung a por- 



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trait representiiig her as a very beautiful 
woman. 

The chfiteau of Beauregard is smaller, and 
not in such good repair as Chaumont. 
Here the Cabinet de trav<al of Henri II 
interested me vcty much. 

At Chevemy one is impressed with the 
evident wealth of the presoit proprietor to 
enable him to maintain such state and lux- 
ury. The apartment of Henri IV is a 
marvel of sumptuousness. The decoration 
of ceiling and walls is very rich, and con- 
spicuous articles of furniture are the splen- 
did bed and a marriage-chest with the arms 
of France and Navarre. 

Some of the paintings in the chateau 
are of inestimable value. The portrait of 
Jeanne d'Albret, the Protestant mother of 
Henri IV, in her Beamais costume, is the 
only one of this lady known to be in exist- 
ence. I said to the old butler, who acted 
as our guide, that I doubted not the Louvre 
art committee would be glad to niunber it 
among the treasures of the gallery I With 
evident emotion be hastened to reply that 



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many times enormous sums had been offered, 
but Monsieur le Comte refused to part with 
the picture xmder any consideration. The 
living-rorans are most comfortably fur- 
nished, and the estate is well stocked with 
game — a peck of eighty homids being kept. 

From Tours we visited Langeais and 
Loches. Langeais is a perfect model of an 
old feudal castle, completely furnished 
throughout. It belcmgs to a diocolate man- 
ufacturer, who has expended a great deal of 
money to keep it in repair, and has had the 
interior decorated in the style of the period. 
The furniture is partly old, and partly a 
reproduction. 

Loches is a ruin, but very interesting from 
a historical point of view. 

It seemed strange to find myself again in 
Tours, where I studied many years ago, and 
you may remember that I told you my 
brothers, David and Robert, attended its 
Lyc^e. The town has changed some- 
what, — the Rue Royale is now called the 
Rue Nationale, — and there is a fine basilica 
erected over the tomb of St Martin. 



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ISS PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

We went thraiee to Bourges, from which 
place I sent you a post -card, with a view of 
the cathedral door. Then to Moulins, 
Issoire and Le Puy, — ^last, but not least! 

Do you rememba- an article in the Cen- 
tury Magazine that appeared some time 
since> written by Joseph and Elizabeth Pen- 
neil, and entitled: "The Most Picturesque 
Place in the World?" This was Le Puy, 
and we were not disappointed when we came 
to see it. 

Our trip had been planned by Robert, 
who, having ridden over the ground more 
Ulan once on his bicycle, had been so charmed 
with the beauty of the scenery and the his- 
torical landmarks, with which he had become 
familiar, that we were induced to follow the 
itinerary laid out, and were particularly 
delighted with Le Puy. 

The train made a semi-circular tour of the 
city, on the curve of the line before entering 
the station, and we had a wonderful glimpse, 
in the glow of the declining sun, of an im- 
pressive picture. It could be likened to the 
New Jerusalem or one of Turner's compo- 



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sitions. The j^orifying touch was given by 
a rainbow — gabled roofs, wet by a pass- 
ing shower, sparkled and shone. Churches 
perched on precipitous, volcanic rocks, rich 
in colouring, pointed skyward, and above all 
rose the statue of the Virgin, as if guarding 
the inhabitants of a fair city of one's dreams. 

The peace-inspiring monument was made 
from cannon taken at Sebastopol, and it is 
possible to climb into the crown that adorns 
the head, and survey the surrounding coun- 
try. I did not make the ascent, but had a 
fine view of the beautiful scenery, typical of 
Auvergne, from the train, coming and 
going. 

While we were staying in Le Puy there 
was an interesting fair being held in the 
public square on which the hotel fronted. 
It was amusing to watch the peasants, in 
their native costumes, bartering and selling 
their wares. The women are active in the 
lace industry. In every nook and comer of 
the roughly paved, hilly streets, one could 
see white-capped heads bending over the 
pillows of Torchon lace. 

S. D. G. 



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1902 
UP THE NILE 

Letter of Miss Gabdiner 

Assouan, Upper Egypt, 

February 1st, 1902. 

Your kind letter and the pretty ealendu", 
with greetings from other far-away friends, 
were brought on board the "Rwneses" by 
a faithful Arab mail-carrier, when we 
stopped at Minieh on the trip up the Nile. 

We spent ten days in Cairo, and it was 
pleasant to see and hear again the sights and 
sounds of the Orient that had channed us 
when we were there before, — though, in 
many respects, Cairo, unfortunately, has 
become rather Europeanized. For instance, 
the natires, in their Eastern costumes, look 
quite out of place riding in tram-cars! 

Judge Batdieller and his ifamily were 
most kind, inviting us to tea, several times, 
and to their box at the Opera. 



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One evening we went with Miss B , to 

pay a visit, by moonlight, to the mys- 
terious Sphinx. We drove to the Mina 
House, where we mounted dromedaries and 
donkeys, rode out on the desert and stopped 
directly in front of the great stone face, 
remaining for sc»ne time, seated, in sUmce, 
on oiu- steeds, to watch the weird effect of 
light and shade. LitUe fieecy clouds flecked 
the sky, at intervals obscuring the moon, — 
when a veil seemed to be drawn over the 
eyes of the Sphinx, which again, the full 
radiance revealed with startling distinctness. 

At a short distance were crouched on the 
sand, and conversing in low tones, a group 
of Bedouins, — and I saw two clouds pass 
below the summit of a Pyramid! 

The temperature in Cairo was very warm, 
and it was interesting to attend an oiter- 
tainment and Christmas Tree, under a star- 
lit sky, in the garden of Shepheard's Hotel. 

On the Nile, however, the weather turned 
cold, and we were glad to have brought our 
heavy wraps. 

The excursions were delightful, and I 



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enjoyed donkey-riding. Leaving Cairo on 
December thirty-first, the boat stopped at 
Bedrachin to enable tourists to visit Zak- 
karah. D., R. and I once more saw the 
excavations on the site of Memphis, with the 
Serapeiim that had made us marvel six years 
ago. Alas! the gigantic granite sarcophagi 
have long since been rifled of the mummified 
forms of Apis. 

At Beni Hassan, the next day, we rode 
out to the tombs — where are shown early 
specimens of the Doric column, that had its 
origin in Egypt — passing through the vil- 
lage, destroyed by Mehemet Ali "to punish 
the inhabitants for their rascality and 
pillaging propensities." Nothing to-day 
remains of the village but crumbling Trails. 

On the third of January we arrived, late 
in the afternoon, at Assiout, but had time to 
drive about the town in a landau, — and 
admire the beautiful minarets. 

We mounted donkeys again on the sixth, 
and rode to Denderah to see the Temple of 
Hathor, on the outside wall of which is a 
large bas-relief representing Cleopatra — 



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but not a flattering likeness of this cele- 
brated woman! 

Luxor was reached on the seventh, and 
Mamma was delighted to finally see, in 
reality, the famed Temple of Kamak that, 
she said, had fired her imagination since 
childhood. H^e we were on the site of 
ancient Thebes. 

The next day we crossed the River and 
had a long ride to the tombs of die Kings, 
and the Temple, or Palace of Queen Hata- 
sou, <nie of the most interesting excursions. 

On the ninth we again crossed the River 
to visit the Ramesseum, several tombs and 
temples, including that of Medinet Habou, 
which is very imposing, — and passed the 
C(dossi of Memnon, recalling the sweet 
scmgs at sunrise, on our retiu^i to the boat. 

We left Luxor early the following morn- 
ing and were soon at Esneh. As the temple 
is within walking distance, we went on foot 
to explore it, — also taking advantage of an 
opportunity to see a Coptic church, the 
inhabitants of this district capital being 
mostly Copts. 



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About four o'clock in the afternoon we 
arrived at Edfou and riding to the temple 
there, climbed to the top of its pylon, enjoy- 
ing a beautiful sunset and an extensive view 
of the Nile Valley. After feasting our eyes 
on this glowing picture we were descending, 
in semi-obscurity, a flight of steps and dis- 
covered, perched in a window, a small sized 
owl I The little fellow refused to be fright- 
ened away, and appeared quite scornful, as 
if resenting our intrusion upon his solitude. 

At Komombo, being close to the water's 
edge, our boat made but a short stop on the 
morning of the eleventh, reaching Assouan 
that afternoon. The Island of Elephantine 
was visited — the Nilometer inspected, and 
the Temple of Amenophis explored. Of 
this only a few stones remain, most of them 
having been used for building material in 
the village of Assouan. 

We spent a quiet Sunday, starting on 
Monday, the thirteenth, to visit Philae. 
Going by rail to Chellal, we were taken, in 
small boats, to the island, and greatly 
admired the fine proportions of its temple. 



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In contradistinction to tbe massive struc- 
tures in which Egypt abounds, the slender 
clustered columns and lighter style of archi- 
tecture come as an agreeable surprise, and 
one's gaze lingers lovingly on the graceful 
outlines of Fhilae, when viewed against the 
azure of the sky. 

Returning to the "Rameses" for lunch- 
eon, we afterwards went ashore for a stay 
of three weeks in Assouan. These pleasant 
days are nearly numbered, for the third of 
February will find us passengers, on the 
same boat, for Cairo, and how many delight- 
ful memories we are taking back with usl 

One day we sailed, in a felucca, to the 
Cataract, where, the spray dashing about 
them, native boys plunged boldly into the 
water, and swimming, with skillful strokes, 
were borne swiftly down the rapids. 

The Arab skipper gathered papyrus for 
us — its feathery fronds appearing above the 
crevices of rocks, in inctmspicuous nooks. 
This aquatic plant is somewhat rare now, 
though travelers tell of having seen it 
growing, in profusion, on the White Nile. 



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One thinks regretfully of the sacred lotus, 
that regal flower no longer floating on the 
breast of the . noble River, and, perhaps, 
forever lost to the land of its birth. 

S. D. G. 



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"BELLA ROMA" 
Lettes of Miss Gaxdineb 

Rome, Italy, 

AprU Sltt, 1902. 

We reached Italy a month ago, spending 
a fortnight in Naples, where we luided after 
a pleasant voyage from Port Said. 

On Easter Monday my long cherished 
wish to ascend Vesuvius was gratified, and 
I shall always think of the smoking crater, 
into whidi I gazed, as one of the marvels of 
the earth. 

It was a four hours* drive to the funicular 
railway-station at the foot of the volcano. 
Here we had our luncheon, and then began 
the ascent. Just as the car started a shower 
of rain descended, changing into a hail- 
storm before the terminus was reached, but, 
on the way, we had charming glimpses, 
through the rifts in the clouds, of the sea- 
coast, dotted with white buildings, as far as 
Sorrento. 

We waited, perhaps twenty minutes, on 



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162 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

arriving at the terminus, for the weather to 
become a little clearer, and then, accom- 
panied by a guide, and umbrellas, trudged 
up the steep incline, ankle-deep in wet 
ashes, to the summit — in the teeth of a gale! 
Possibly the wind shifted, for suddenly the 
sulphurous vapour, with its su£Foeating 
fumes, was blown into my face, and I was 
tempted to turn back — but the guide oicour- 
aging me to proceed, I soon found mysdf 
on the brink of the abyss. 

No wonder the ancients believed it to be 
the entrance to Hades, for, at intervals, a 
rumbling sound like distant thunder was 
heard, and from the depths issued a dense 
smoke. 

The excitement and pleasure of this 
excursion quite counterbalanced the feeling 
of fatigue at the end of the day, and it was 
a happy and contented traveller who sought 
her couch that night t 

We also visited Pompeii, the Aquariiun 
fmd the Naples Museum several times — and 
one evoiing I heard "La vie de Boheme" 
sung in Italian, at San Carlo. 



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Though more occupied with social life 
than with sight-seeing in Rome, the study 
of art is, essentially for us, a part of the 
daOy programme. 

At Aristide Sartorio's studio we saw a 
design for the shield to commemorate the 
Duke of the Abruzzi's expedition to the 
North Pole — and at Corradi's a picture 
painted for King Edward, the subject 
being: "Sirens in the Blue Grotto." 

One day Col. C sait us tickets for 

the mass at St. Peter's when Leo XIII was 
to address the pilgrims, and D. and I were 
glad to avail ourselves of this opportunity of 
seeing His Holiness. 

The sacred edifice was filled with a vast 
throng through which we managed to thread 
our way, taking our stand near the door 
leading to the Vatican. After waiting for 
some time among good-natured Italians, of 
the borghese class (who, observing me to 
be a foreigner, appeared very anxious that 
I should have an unobstructed view of Sua 
Santith) , our patience was finally rewarded. 
The service being over, the Pope was obliged 



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to pass in front of us in order to return to 
his apartmmts. Borne alcHig, above the 
heads of the people, who greeted him with 
cheers, his marble-like, characteristic fea- 
tures would have made him the counterpart 
of an effigy cm a mediaeval pontiff's tomb, 
were it not for the slert glance of his eyes, 
and tiie nervous energy with whit^ he half 
rose, from the sedia, every mranent to bestow 
the apostolic blessing. 

Another day a carriage, with servants in 
Court livery stopped at our door, and Con- 
tessa Gianotti, with her charming daughter, 
called to take R. and me to the Palazzo 
Tavema, where private theatricals were 
given for charity. 

It was an operetta adapted from "The 
Geisha" and called: "O Mimosa San." The 
young aristocrats, who took part, acquit- 
ted themselves remarkably well. So well 
trained were the voices, that I thought the 
singing almost equalled that of profes- 
sionals, and probably, nowhere else in the 
world could the little musical drama have 



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been so successfully perf onned, by amateurs, 
as in Italy. 

In a few days we are leaving for Florence, 
and to insure a return to Roma la beUa, 
the Fountain of Trevi should have our 
centenmi! 

S. D. G. 



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IN THE NETHERLANDS 

Lettee of Miss Quincy 

Hotel Vieux Doelen, 

The Hague, July. 190S. 

The scene i^ so charming from my win- 
dow that I am tempted to tell you directly 
of this ancient hostelry] It reminds me of 
Versailles as I enter the large square salons, 
while the dining-room has great windows 
opening on a garden of roses, where trees 
are in luxuriant leaf, under the warm July 
sun, and where doves have their home I 

We came from Antwerp and the borders 
of Lohengrin's country, a few days ago. 

The Prince of China was arriving with his 
retinue, as we were leaving. He seemed to 
be quite young, of a fine oriental type, and 
high-bred in manner. As he entered his 
carriage he saluted, by bowing three times 
to the Belgian escort, who were in waiting 
to receive him, while the badge of the long 
peacock's feathers was attached to, and worn 
horizontally from, his little royal cap. 



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The skies of summer were our com- 
panions. In the green meadows the Fris- 
ian cattle were grazing in their pastures, 
while scarlet poppies and the blue flower of 
the flax made our path brilliant with color I 

To-day we have been at morning service 
in the Groote Kerke, where the little Queen, 
not long ago, was married. Large, with 
tiie proportions of a cathedraJ, the greatest 
simplicity of arrangement prevails. We 
were courteously given great Bibles with 
hynmals, and I found it quite possible to 
follow the lines of the hymns, for all the 
Dutch syllables were distinctly indicated. 

The Holy Communion, an impressive and 
beautiful sacrament, according to the Dutch 
rite, was celebrated; the communicants, in 
turn, taking their places on either side of a 
long table, where the simple, church silver 
was most beautiful. The clergyman, wear- 
ing an ecclesiastical gown with Geneva 
bands, made an address to ah. We noticed 
those of the worshippers who were evidently 
of the old Dutch noblesse, and others, simple 
and devout, who mi^t have been, in truth. 



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brothers of the brave and humUe Boers, at 
prayer on the African veldt. 

The American Minister Plwiipotentiary 
at The Hague invited us to drive, and the 
carriage came to the hotd, at the hour 
appointed. The aftemorai was one of 
radiant sunshine, and we drove out as far as 
Ryswyk, passing lovely villas in grounds of 
their own, with parterres of flowers. The 
American Minister pointed out the "House 
on the Marsh", of which the story is told; 
the house where General Kruger lived, and 
the beautiful estate of the Prince of Saxe- 
Weimar. We returned by the way of 
Sdieveningen, and drove down to the 
Esplanade. It is said that there is here a 
strraig under-current of the sea, and that 
bathing is dangerous. We met the peasants 
in Sunday attire, wearing golden ornaments 
and lace caps. 

We have been to the "House in the 
Wood" where are wonderful beech trees, 
with salons of Chinese embroideries, lacquers 
and porcelains. In truth, the old Dutch 
commerce, of other days with the Far East 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 169 

(and to-day with Java), brou^t unusual 
treasures, as well as merchandise, together 
with great worldly gain! 

Lateb. 

The large trees before my window are 
swaying in the wind, and I crane to tell you 
in this leisure moment, of the tea at the 
British Legation with Lady Howard (who 
was Miss Cecelia Riggs of Washington, and 
is now the wife of the British Minister to 
The Hague and Luxembourg) . 

Lady Howard's note awaited our return 
from Delft, and in the aftemofui, at five, we 
drove to the Legatitm (the entrance is 
beneath an archway) . One footman op^ied 
the door, while another took my wrap in 
the beautifully arranged vestibule. In the 
first room that we entered, Lady Howard 
received us, leading us into the great draw- 
ing-room where the tea-equipage was in 
charge of two of her daughters, <»ie the 
wife of a German nobleman who lives in 
Brunswick. Large cabinets filled with rare 
porcelains were ab(»jt, while ohjecU de 



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luxe adorned Uie great salons. Another 
door opened into the large ball-room, that 
was hung in gold-colored satin damask, 
while mirrors reflected the li^t. 

Sir Henry, who was very kind and cordial, 
said that the Legation was originally built 
for a Spanish Embassy, three hundred years 
ago, and was a part of a Jesuit monastery. 
It is still owned by the Jesuits, whose chapel 
is near by. Sir Henry, who had lived at 
The Hague, in his boyhood, with his father, 
arranged with the Jesuits to allow the Brit- 
ish Grovemment to have the lease of the 
delightful old building as long as it was 
desired. Sir Horace Rumbold made it his 
residence while he was British Minister to 
The Hague and Luxembourg (188&-1896). 

For nearly half an hour Lady Howard 
and I had a delightful conversation on the 
sofa. Sir Hmry and Lady Howard had 
recently come from England and were to 
have been among the diplomatists at West- 
minster Abbey for King Edward's corona- 
tion. Had it occurred, they would have 
been obliged to leave their hotd in London 



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at half after six in the morning to take their 
places within the Abbey. The last barrier, 
for princesses and peeresses alike, was to 
have been closed at half after eight. The 
ceremonies were to have been begun at 
eleven and to have lasted four hours. A 
buffet within the Abbey would have sup- 
plied whatever was needed, during this long 
interval. 

But, for several days. Lady Howard said, 
it was believed that King iEdward would die, 
and everything came to an end, — wid parties 
and balls were at once countermanded. 
Happily that danger is passed, and the 
coronation is only deferred. 

Lady Howard's little Irish terrier "Bit- 
ters" clamored for his especial share of 
attention and, presently, an American, from 
Baltimore, entered, who. Miss Jane Riggs 
said, would now have to be considered as the 
American Minister, in the place of Mr. 
Stanford Newel, during the letter's ap- 
proaching holiday. Everything was charm- 
ingly friendly and cordial. However, the 
hour of six arrived, when the adieux were 



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172 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

made, and we drove away from under the 
ajxhway of the great portal. Sir Henry 
Howard has had a diplomatic career of wide 
interest, having not only served in the 
United States of America and the Nether- 
lands, but in Guatemala, Greece, Denmark, 
China, Russia and France. 

The young Queen of Holland prefers the 
country to the city, and spends much of her 
time at her palace of Het Loo near Apel- 
doom, but Her Majesty does not fail to 
come to The Hague for the opening of the 
Houses of Pu'liament in September. 

The spring is the moment for foreigners 
to visit Holland, whoi myriad tulips are in 
blocnn and the great fields are veritable 
rainbows of color I 

There is one little fact of history, S. dear, 
that may amuse you. It appears that the 
windmills of Holland were the ancestors of 
those on the Spanish plains, seen by the gal- 
lant Don Quixote de la Mancha. For the 
conquered Dutch gave to their masters their 
system of irrigation, and the windmills of 
the Zuyder Zee, transplanted to the great 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 178 

Chinchilla plain, were responsible for the 
adventures of that most chivalrous of all 
errant knights — the hero of Cervantes' tale I 
So charming is the little kingdom of Hol- 
land that I shall greatly regret the hour of 
our departure. 

M. P. Q. 



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1908 
THE CITY OF THE DEYS 

Letter of Miss Gaxdineb 

Aloiebs, 1903. 
CarUtima: 

, Algiers has a delightful climate, and since 
leaving Cimiez, at the beginning of Feb- 
ruary, we have had no reason to regret 
coming here to spend the latter part of the 
winter season. 

I think I never beheld a more beautiful 
view than that which greeted my eyes on the 
morning after our arrival. Across the glis- 
tening surface of \h.e bay, — where lay at 
anchor two of our American warships — my 
j^anoe wandered to the snow-capped peaks 
of the Atlas Mountains sharply outlined 
against a sky of intense blue. In the fore- 
ground of this glowing picture, an East 
Indian merchant was spreading out em- 
broidered stuflFs for our inspection. 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 176 

We are comfortably settied at Muatapka 
SupMeur— the heights above the town — 
but, at first, we had difficulty in securing 
proper accommodation; the hotels were so 
crowded. 

There is much to interest cme in Algiers, 
and many charming drives to take in the 
vicinity of the City of the Deys. We went, 
one afternoon, to Ndtre Dame ^Afrique, a 
chapel, situated mi a clifiF, commanding a 
superb view seaward. The usual service of 
prayer for the souls of those lost at sea was 
held in the open air, before a catafalque. 
It was a most impressive ceremony. 

Another day we explored the old quarter 
of the town, with our friends, Mrs. and Miss 

C , and a guide whose name was Amar 

Ben Said Hanu'och. In some places the 
roofs of the houses almost touched each 
other — only a streak of light showing over- 
head. At every comer we encomitered a 
subject for the brush of an artist, and paused 
to wonder at colour schemes, so natural, so 
unstudied. Farther on a most pathetic 
scene presented itself! We emerged uprai 



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176 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

an open space, in the centre of which was 
seated a group of blind men, singing to the 
accompaniment of musical instruments. 

Near by was the Palace of the Deys. 

Mrs. C told us that whai she visited 

the school of embroidery, she ascended to 
the top of the building just before sunset 
and saw the life of the roofs. It seems that 
the feminine population and childrm appear 
on the roofs to enjoy the cool of the evening, 
and that the dwellers in harems have a social 
hour, to which mild form of dissipation, no 
doubt, they look forward all day. 

On Fridays also, the Moorish w<»nen 
observe a curious custom. They visit the 
cemeteries and sit and talk to each other 
among the tombs. A foreigner, if accom- 
panied by ladies, may have the privilege of 
entering a Moorish cemetery mi a Friday, 
so David escorted Mamma and me. In 
their white Turkish costume the women 
made a striking picture. 

The excursion to Blida was one of the 
most enjoyable. Blida is a small town of 
Algeria, at the foot of the Atlas range, from 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



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whence a drive to the Gorges de la CMffa is 
an objective point for those desirous of see- 
ing wild mtmkeys in their natural habitat. 
Travellers, however, are sometimes doomed 
to disappointment when the simian tribe pre- 
fers to remain in retirement in the thick 
woods. The country all about is wonder- 
fully fertile, being watered by mountain 
streams. As we drove along the well-built 
road, through charming scenery, we became 
quite interested in our driver, who informed 
us that he was a native of far-away Avig- 
non, the city of the popes. Suddenly pull- 
ing up his horses, he exclaimed with excite- 
ment: "Les voUa^leavoUd!" and following 
his glance up the mountainside we saw three 
monkeys disporting themselves in the trees. 
"Ahr lea coquins," continued our Jehu, "Us 
mangent lea bourgeona dea arbrea!" 

In the hotel courtyard were several mon- 
keys in cages. "Consolation monkeys," I 
called them, fondly imagining that a kind 
inn-keeper had placed them there, so aU 
travellers might be able to say, honestly, 
they had seen monkeys on their trip; per- 



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178 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

haps some omitting to mention that those 
they saw were in captivity! 

The "Chicago" and the "Cincinnati" 
have now left these waters, but while they 
were in port, we had the pleasure of meeting 
the officers, who made the most of their time, 
attending dances at the hotels and various 
other entertainments. On the night of a 
fancy dress ball, we had as guests, at our 
dinner party, Lieutenant<Commander Gil- 
more (who had beoi a prisoner in the Philip- 
pines) from the "Cincinnati," and Captain 
Thorpe from the "Chicago." The officers 
wore their uniforms and I was in Japuiese 
costume. 

A duice was also given by Admiral and 
Mrs. Crowninshield on the fiag-ship, to 
which many invitations had been s^it out. 
The English girls all thou^t the American 
naval officers "very nice," and it was 
curious that I should have been the only 
American one present 

President Loubet, of the French Repub- 
lic, has just visited Algiers, where he was 
received with oriental splendor. On the 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 179 

morning of AprU 16th, at eight o'dock, he 
reviewed the troops in the Champs de 
Manoeuvret. We had seats reserved for us 
in the tribune by courtesy of the American 
Consul, Mr. Kidder. The Algerian regi- 
ments of cavalry appeared in native dresa, 
a body of richly capiuisoned Arabian horse, 
unsurpassed in brilliancy by any of the 
French troops. The »keik» were mounted 
cm gold-embroidered saddles, with trappings 
of costly brocade hanging nearly to the 
ground, like the crusaders or knights of old. 
An outfit of this description was said to be 
worth thirty-two thousand francs. It was 
a splendid sight when, at a givoi signal, all 
the chieftains, with flowing garments and 
uplifted sabres, sprang forward on their 
chargers 1 

The night following this military display, 
the harbor, with the warships lying at 
anchor, was illuminated. From the heights 
of Mustapha we looked down, through a 
frame of foliage — ^in silence — fascinated by 
the fairy-like scene 1 The trees about us 
were motionless, — not a leaf stirred — and 



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180 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

far, far below, every twinkling light on mast 
and spar seemed to find its image in a sea 
of glass I 

The city has been en fSte — but the de- 
puiure of Monsieur Loubet brings the 
season and my letta- to a close. 

S. D. G. 



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IN WINTER AND IN SPRING 

Letter of Mibs Quinct 

HnxHousE Avenue, 

New Haten, Jvne 15tk, 1903. 

I am sending a little souvenir, dearest S., 
by this post to meet you in Paris, and as it 
leaves our shores, be assured that it takes 
with it every message of true affection and 
greeting I 

Your letter was welcome from Algiers, 
also the pretty postal with the ptdms and 
Arab girls in white, suggestive of the bright 
skies and the sunshine of Northern Africa. 
Where can there be found more lovely sun- 
sets, on both sea and land? I remember the 
great golden sim, setting in clouds of rosy 
flame behind the distant AUas Mountains! 
I delighted in reading of your ramble about 
Algiers! and recalled our own visit to the 
embroidery rooms there, under the patron- 
age of well-known gentlewomen, where little 
brides and brides-elect, of ten and twelve 
years old, were learning the stitches of rare 



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18S PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

needlework to help make useful the long 
unemployed future hours of seclusitm in the 
haremi 

Since my letter of the winter, a few days 
in Washington, partly en tourute, partiy 
en visite, w«re passed delightfully in Feb- 
ruary. The afternoons in the drawing- 
rooms of friends, with the tea tables, made, 
of this diplomatic city, a veritable exchange 
of international civility. Some of our 
friends, who were leaving for a little jour- 
ney to California, returning by way of the 
Grand Caiion, had been told by the Grerman 
Ambassador that this marvel of nature 
"would make an excellent boundary between 
the Fatherland and France!" 

The Italian Coimt Primoli (the son of 
Princess Charlotte Buonaparte) came into 
one drawing-room for tea. He had been 
lunching at the Italian Embassy and was tm 
the point of leaving for the Hot Springs, 
Palm Beach, Cuba, the Pacific coast, and so 
many points of interest that one is breathless 
at the enterprise of our foreign visitors I 
The hostess offered to give Count Primoli a 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 18S 

letter to Count KUmansegg of the Austrian 
Embassy in Mexico. These civilities are 
greatly appreciated, for America seems a 
distant land to foreigners I 

The changes in the interior of the White 
House, by McKim, Mead and White, are 
admirable. My cousin, Mrs. Rockhill, came 
to take me to see the improvements, and 
everything appeared to the best advantage 
in the sunlight of a bright vrinter morning. 

The dining-room is newly arranged vrith 
panelling in English oak, on which are 
placed silver sconces, while the portraits of 
the Presidents are grouped on the walls of 
the Red and Green Rooms. The one of the 
fifth President of the United States, John 
Quincy Adams, is placed over the fireplace 
in the latter room, opposite that of President 
Lincoln. 

The Blue Room resembles a Louis XVI 
apartment, but, contrary to its name, is hung 
with golden brocade. There are large crys- 
tal lustres, and a good floor for dancing. 
The suites of receiving-rooms have been 
made simple and handscnne, while the great 



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184 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

East Room may truthfully be compared 
with that of a French palace. The portrait 
of your aunt, the wife of Presidwit Tyler, 
I saw. It is placed nearly opposite the like- 
ness of Mrs. Roosevelt, lately painted by 
Chartrain, who represents his lovely model 
seated in a j^arden. 

Yet how shall I tell you of the luncheons 
and the civilities of the winter and the spring 
that remain unmentioned? I must pass 
them all — until I come to relate to you my 
meeting at dinner (in New Haven, at Mrs. 
Cady Eaton's, last month) with Count and 
Countess Konrad Zeppelin, relatives of the 
great airship inventor of Germany, Count 
Ferdinand Zeppelin, of wh(Hn all the world 
has heard. Well may this wonderful inven- 
tor and officer of the German Army be 
called the "Conqueror of the Air."* 

The American wife of Count Konrad 
Zeppelin is a sweet Ch-afin, with beauty and 
charm. The evening, late May, was soft 

* By a singular turn of fortune, Coont Ferdinand 
Zeppelin took part in the American War of Seceaaion. 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 186 

and warm, and we went, after the dinner was 
over, into the cool summer twilight, with the 
perfume of the wistaria about us. 

Count Kom'ad Zeppelin himself is from 
Wiirtemberg, but neither he nor the Coun- 
tess pass a great deal of their time in Stutt- 
gart, preferring to travel. Count Konrad 
was interested in the reading of character in 
handwriting and asked if I would not inter- 
pret his. 

And now, dearest S., I close my chronicle 
of the winter and the spring with the afifec- 
tionate wish that I may hear from you soon 
from the distant side of the seal 

M. P. Q. 



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1904 

"WHEN KNIGHTS WERE BRAVE 
AND LADIES FAIR" 

Letteb of Miss Gasdiner 

Toulouse, France, 

May 16th, 1904. 

After spending' the winter at Cimiez we 
are returning to Paris in a roundabout way> 
visiting, at leisure, certain provincial towns 
of France, hitherto overiooked in our travels. 

These cities in the land of the troubadour 
are fascinating when one realizes their 
remarkable influence on Court life in the 
Middle Ages, and indeed their supremacy in 
belles lettres was recognized by the whole 
of civilized Europe long before the era of the 
Roiaissance. 

From Nice we went first to Montpellier, 
a flourishing town with a celebrated school 
of medicine, and formerly a "strwighold of 
Calvinism." In 1622 it was besieged and 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 187 

captured by Louis XIII. Finely situated, 
its invigorating air was a welcome change 
to us, who had found the later weeks of the 
spring season on the Riviera rather enervat- 
ing. In leaving the Cdte d'Azur, however, 
we had not taken a last farewell of the 
Mediterranean, for "the sapphire waters of 
the tideless sea" were plainly visible from 
one end of the Perou, a beautiful promenade 
at Montpellier on an elevation, and adorned 
with an equestrian statue in bronze of 
Louis XIV. 

In the Museum we saw paintings by 
Greuze and Cabanel. The latter was a 
native of Mtmtpellier and is well represented 
in the Metropolitan Musemn, in New York, 
by his fine portrait of Miss Catherine Wolfe. 
The sketch for this portrait is exhibited in 
the collection of this artist's work at Mont- 
pellier. 

As it is usual in travelling to inform one's 
self of the arts and industry of the places 
one visits, so I always make a point of find- 
ing out specialties, and at a confectioner's 
seciu-ed a box of stuffed dates, the spe- 



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188 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

cialty of Montpellier, and a most delicious 
bon-bon. 

Then we journeyed on to Carcassonne, 
the most unique mediaeval place that can be 
imagined. One can visit the ramparts and 
study the primitive mode of defence of a 
strongly fortified town, for here is a won- 
derful example, furnished by the architect 
Viollet-le-Duc, who has restored the ancient 
vrails of the ciU. Seen from the side of the 
valley, across a wide, green meadow, the ciU 
with its battlements and towers would make 
an idetd background for the reproduction of 
a tournament. One could imagine specta- 
tors coming from distant countries luid fill- 
ing the modem town of Carcassonne, while 
awaiting the representation of the jousts and 
tourneys of olden days, when knights were 
brave and ladies fair. 

We are now spending a few days in Tou- 
louse, the old capital of Languedoc. Yes- 
terday was Sunday and the fSte of Jeanne 
d*Arc, consequently many houses, as well as 
the churches, were decorated with banners. 

I attended service at the French Protes- 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 189 

tant Chapel, which was crowded with a con- 
gregation, mostly of women. On Saturday 
we visited the Hdtel d'AssSzat et CUmence 
Isaure, a beautifully preserved building of 
the XVI Century. "It is the seat of the 
Acadimie dea Jeux Floraux, perhaps the 
oldest literary institution in Eiirope, 
foimded in 1828-27, under the name of the 
'CoUige du Gay Sf avoir/ and observes the 
custom of distributing flowers of gold and 
silver to its laureates. Cl^mence Isaure, a 
noble dame of Toulouse, left a legacy at the 
end of the XV Century, which enabled it 
to increase the number of these flowers, and 
the Flower FMe is held every year, with 
great solemnity, on May 8d. The flowers 
distributed are nine in number: the ama- 
ruith of gold, the violet, marigold, primrose, 
eglantine, uid lily of silver, all for poetry; 
the violet or eglantine and inmiortelle and 
jasmine of gold, for prose compositions, and 
the carnation of silver, a 'consolation prize.' 
The Academy consists of forty main- 
teneura and an indefinite number of Mattreg- 
iS'Jeva. The former are so called because 



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190 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

it is supposed to be their duty to maintain 
the ProvCTi^al language and literature." 

Several scientific societies meet regularly 
in the building. We observed at <me end 
of a gallery, in the courtyard, a stone statue 
of Clemence Isaure with a bouquet of arti- 
ficial flowers that had been placed in her 
hand. 

Do you recollect the miniature, set in a 
little silver frame, — a copy that I made of 
a supposed portrait of this learned lady? 
She is represented wearing a dress so 
monastic in design that one could imagine 
it the likeness of some noble abbess were it 
not for the fascinating curls that the wimple 
leaves uncovered on her temples. 

We expect to go to Limoges to-morrow, 
<Hi our northward journey, stopping again 
at Orleans, and reaching Paris, D. V., by 
tile end of the week. 

I fancy, dearest M., that you have 
lately been occupied in superintending the 
building of your house in Litchfield, and 
no one need tell me how delightfully absorb- 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 191 

ing such an occupatirai may be, for my 
imagination convinces me that all other 
interests p^e in comparison with the delight 
of arranging for the ctmstniction of a 
charming villa t 

S. D. G. 



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CHRISTMAS AT ASSOUAN 
UPPER EGYPT 

Letter of Miss Gabdineb 

Assouan, Egypt, 

February, 1905. 

The voyage, at the aid of November, 
from Marseilles to Alexandria was pleasant, 
with the exception of one day of rough 
weather, owing to a storm that began a few 
hours before we reached Naples, where our 
ship anchored in the early morning. R. 
braved the elements, and was taken ashore 
in a small boat, lunched at the Hotel Royal 
(where we have often stayed), and brought 
back with him a most lovely basket of 
flowers that Signor Cav. Tordi had sent, 
with his c(Hnpliments, to Manmia and me. 

I, however, had chosen to remain on board, 
and from the deck watched the play of light 
and shade — scurrying clouds making the 
scene quite "Tumeresque" in its variation 
of color. Just as we were leaving the hai- 



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bor a beautiful sight presented itself, — 
Vesuvius was seen through a double rain- 
bowl but, outside the breakwater the seas 
ran high; we tossed ail that afternoon and 
evening until we altered the Straits of 
Messina. 

A week was spent in Cairo, where the sea- 
son had hardly conuuenced, though we met 
a few friends who, like us, had come etalj 
with the intention of passing the winter in 
Egypt. The Nile trip was as delightful as 
ever, and I renewed my acquaintance with 
Memnon, Rameses, Thotmes, Amenhotop 
and Cleopatra, making excursions to the 
temples, on donkeys, as usual. 

We find the dimate everything to be 
desired (being on the edge of the desert) 
at Assouan, — dry, warm and at the same 
time, invigorating. The amusements, if 
few, are, however, of a wholesome order. 
One may sail on the river or take camel or 
d(»ikey rides over the sands. Then there is 
the interesting drive to the "Barrage." 
This stupendous feat of engineering is well 
worth seeing. One is carried across the 



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gre&t stone structure in a huid-car, on rails, 
and a wmderful sight it isl The mres 
broke against the barrier — ^placed by man 
to hold the great River, that for countless 
ages had followed its course without inter- 
rupti<m through upper Egypt, — and the 
spray dashed high wh«i we went there, tme 
day, in a landui, with wide wooden tires, 
drawn by four horses. 

Returning to Assouan, we decided to pay 
a visit to the Bishu'eens, a nomadic tribe, not 
of the Arab race, living in tents, and now 
encamped in the rear of the village. Our 
Arab coachman drove through the narrow 
streets at full speed, making a sensation 
among the natives, and sending the children 
flying, like a brood of chidcens, as he shouted 
and cracked his whip. Most of these chil- 
dren immediately stuied after us in pursuit 
of bacJaheesh. It was amusing, but the 
coadmian's delight in turning sharp comers 
swiftly was scarcely shared by ourselves! 

On Christmas a fine dinner was served in 
the spacious dining hall, shaped like a 
mosque, that has been added to the hotel 



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since we were here three years ago. At caie 
end a lighted tree shed a soft radiance over 
the assembled company. Unlike the 6^- 
man poet's "lonely &r tree" that, firmly 
rooted in the bleak North, could only dream 
of a lonely palm in the "smmy South," here 
was a fir tree that had travelled many hun- 
dreds of miles to grace, with its presence, a 
Christian festival in the land of the palml 

Palm branches were used, in profusion, to 
decorate the English church, which com- 
mands a view of tiie desert, from the porch, 
having been built in an elevated situation. 
The exterior, of a modified Byzantine style 
of architecture, is sc»newhat suggestive of a 
Coptic church. Christmas falling on a Sun- 
day, I attended two services there, and late 
in the afternoon, oa the hotel terrace, facing 
the Island of Elephantine, enjoyed a quiet 
hour, always so beautiful in this orimtal 
land, when the shadows lengthen, and the 
evening glow is all about one. The Nile 
borrows the colors of the sunset and palm 
trees stand silhouetted against an opalescent 
sky. 



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One scarcely feds a chill as night 
descends — the wind being hushed — and 
stars shine forth as brightly through the 
dewless, truispar^it air as they did thou- 
sands of years ago, before even Pharaoh had 
set his cartouche on these black granite 
rocks, or ever Egjrpt had become the centre 
of the world's civilization. 

S. D. G. 



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1905 

FROM THE FIRST TO THE SEC- 
OND CATARACT AND KHALIL'S 
STORY 

Letteb of Miss Gabdines 

Assouan, February, 1905. 

Do not think me too elated with pride 
when I tell you that I have actually 
extended my travels bs far as the Soudan I 
It is nevertheless true, and you shall have an 
account of the journey that D. and I took, 
from the First to the Second Cataract, being 
absent about a week from Assouan. 

There is no railroad to Wady Haifa, so 
everyone goes by boat, and a delightful trip 
it is throu^ Nubia. We had arranged the 
excursion when the moon should be full at 
the time of readiing Abou Simbel, and were 
not disappointed; Uiis ancient fane is majes- 
tic to a degree, and its huge proportions are 
most impressive when one sees it, at night, 
for the first time. It was well worth the 



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trip, had there not beoi other interesting 
tonples to visit, and being* dose to the River, 
one has only to ascend the bank and enter 
the portids of a shrine unequalled in gran- 
deur of effect by any we had yet seen. The 
interior was lighted with electricity, and 
curiously enou^ some of the chambers were 
inhabited by bats that, literally, the "light 
of modem science" had failed to drive from 
their accustomed haunts I 

We did not miss a single detail of the 
programme, and you can imagine how ener- 
getic I can be when I assure you that one 
morning I arose at five o'clock and ascended 
a mountain to see the January sun riset 
Korosco, though not very high, is steep and 
difficult to dimb, but we were repaid, for the 
exertion, by the beautiful sight of the orb 
of day appearing above a chain of desolate 
hills. As its rays burst upon us I tried to 
picture an Egyptian, of ancient times, with 
outstretched hands, reverently hailing the 
god "Ra." 

At DendouT, where our boat anchored, 
one night, we were on the line of the Tropic 



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of Cuicer. Orders had been girni the 
dragoman that we were to be called at an 
hour of the night when the Southern Cross 
was visible, and he sent his assistant, an 
Arab boy, to knock on our cabin doors, and 
wake us, between two and three o'clock. 
We dressed and went on deck, but as there 
was no cHie about we had to find the cross 
ourselves. Finally I discovered a bright 
constellation, in the form of a cross, toward 
the South, only to be puzzled by observing 
ripples on the water moving in that direc- 
tion. I remarked to D., "How strange, 
the Nile seems to be flowing backward f 
When told of it, the next morning, our drag- 
oman laughed heartily, and explained that 
it was owing to the "Barrage" having 
arrested the swift current. The Arab boy 
said: "What for you get up in the night? — 
To take photographs?" — "No," Ianswa%d, 
"to look at the stars!" so, it appears, there 
had been a riddle for more than one person. 
A party of Germans on board afforded us 
much amusement. Their enthusiasm rose 
to the hi^iest pitch and never flagged 



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200 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

during the whole trip. ETerything was 
described by the one word: "kolossal." 

At Wady Haifa we had readied the 
Soudan, the goal of my ambition I I sent 
you a post-canl from tha*e, which I hope you 
have receiTed. As we entered tiie court- 
yard of the post-office a curious sig^t met our 
eyes — it was a kneeling camel being laden 
with the mail 1 — and then we realized how far 
we were from familiar surroundings, and 
home, and native land! 

From Haifa we went, on donkeys, to the 
Rock of Abou Seer, at the Second Cataract. 
A IcHig ride, but an interesting oae. At 
intervals on the road, following the River's 
bank, I noticed tattered garments, hanging 
from poles, and upon inquiry, was informed 
that they were placed there to frighten the 
gazelles from the bean patches. In fact we 
saw, Ml the sand, the footprints of these 
graceful animals. 

Arrived at Abou Seer we looked across a 
stretch of desert to the mountMns of Don- 
gota. The Nile below the eminence, whore 
we stood, was filled with dark granite rocks. 



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and the only sound that ireached our ears, in 
this gloomy spot, was the roar of the cata- 
ract, as the water rushed and swirled among 
tiifi boulders. 

Our steamer was the "Indiana," of the 
Anglo-American Line, and that evening 
when the dragoman, a Nubian, whose name 
was Khalil Saleh, gave out the programme, 
as usual, for the next day, he related this tale 
of a thrilling adventure of tourists, which I 
shall repeat to you. 

Last year, he said, the "Indiana," on one 
of her trips, did not arrive at Wady Haifa 
until three o'clock in the afternoon. Some 
French people who were passengers, per- 
sisted in making the excursion to the Second 
Cataract, though warned by Khalil that 
diere might be danger in starting so late in 
the day. They were not to be deterred, 
however, and it was already dark when they 
finally reached Abou Seer. On their return 
to the boat, as they were riding quietly 
along, about nine oclock in the evening, sud- 
doily, by the dim light, they perceived two 
black objects directly in fnmt of them. 



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S02 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

These proved to be hyenas approaching the 
Rirer to drink 1 The donkeys, scenting the 
wild beasts, immediately stood still, para- 
lyzed with fear, and the lady's d(Hikey f^, 
with his burden, in a heap <» the ground. 
Khalil, without fire-arms, and carrying Mily 
a stick, was powerless to attempt any 
defensive action, but fortunately his pres- 
ence of mind saved the situation. Remem- 
bering the terror nuuiifested by all wild 
animals at the sight of a fire — he ordered 
the donkey-boy to strike a match — at the 
same time, unwinding frwn his own ttirboosh 
the silken kufieh, he held it to the flame, 
thereby creating a beautiful blaze, seeing 
which the hyenas instantly fled, the d(Mikeys 
revived, and the little party proceeded, 
unmolested, on its way. 

Instead of a week's absence, it seemed as 
though we had been away at least a month, 
when our boat reached the landing at 
Assouan. 

We have greatly enjoyed our stay at 
Assouan, which, as perhaps you know, ia 
the Syene, menticmed by Ezeldel, Chap. 29, 



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PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 208 

T. 10. — Within a short distance are the 
famous quarries whmce the Egyptians drew 
their building material. Here ihe huge 
statues were roughly hewn out and shaped 
before they were floated down the Nile to 
their destiDation, and afterwards polished 
and set up. An obelisk is still to be seen 
lying in tiie quarry. 

All along the River banks, in Uppo: 
Egypt, the Syenite granite has turned quite 
black with the action of the water — worn 
smooth — and hollowed out by the eddies here 
and there. One may also see hieroglyphics 
cut deep in the solid rock. From my win- 
dow I look across at the ineffaceable name, 
on the opposite bank, of a ruler of this 
ancient land. 

Our little oasis is very far from any social 
centre, and yet we always have entertain- 
ment of some sort — and now and again 
comes a royal scion to brighten our narrow 
horizon. Last Friday we saw the Duke of 
Ccnmaught, who had been taking tea with 
his nephew, Prince Leopold of Battenberg, 
leaving the hotel, en foot, as we drove in at 



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S04 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

the entrance ^te. Prince Leopold has just 
returned from Khartoum, and R. has hem 
playin j^ croquet with His Hi j^ess. 

Your friends, Mr. and Mrs. Myles 
Standish, are here and send messages to 
you. Like ourselves, ibey are so<hi going 
down the River. 

S. D. G. 



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ARDLEY: A LETTER FROM THE 
"MAISONNETTE" 

Lettee of Miss Quincy 

Aedley, 
Litchfield, Connecticut, 

August 21st, 1906. 

It is with the greatest happiness, dearest 
S., that I write you from my mahormette! 

Directly, howiever, let me send you at 
Aix-les-Bains, my affectionate thanks for 
your letter, and say to you that the little 
Madeira doily intended for your birthday 
gift carried with it all manner of birthday 
love. 

To tell you anew of my house: It was a 
strange yet charming moment, when two 
years ago, my dear aunt, Mrs. Hoppin, said 
to me: "And whom will you decide upon 
for your architect? And a house of what 
period will you build?" The land had been 
mine, with its extensive view, for many 
years, and the house had always been a not 



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S06 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

intanjfible dream for the future. But 
dreams occasionally come true, and castles 
in the air often find a firm foundation oa. the 
good green earth, and after many deli^t- 
fully perplexing days it was decided that a 
G^eorgian house with a terrace should be 
built, reminiscent of the Colonic times — 
and that the architect should be one who had 
been graduated from the Ecole des Beaux 
Art$, as I desired a note of France in the 
constructimi of my home. 

The architect has achieved a mauonnette 
surpassing my expectations. The square 
drawing-room and long dining-room face 
the sim at the south, while the library is at the 
front of the house and every window has a 
lovely view. Mr. Howells has arranged the 
nice proportions of the rooms with faultless 
precision, even the classic detail of the Ionic 
pilasters in the hall, and of the facade hare 
had his care. 

I am gratified and delighted with both the 
interior and the exterior — whidi are singu- 
larly harmonious. 

The fascination of building from the 



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PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 807 

foundations, and watching tiie progress of 
the (xmstnicticm, I hare found to be an 
raitirely new pleasure, and quite apart from 
everything dse. 

Finally, came the moment for the interior 
to be decorated and furnished: for the wall 
papers, the furniture, the silver, the books, 
and all the indispensable details, even the 
batterie de cuuinet My dear aunt, Mrs. 
Hoppin, and my uncle, Mr. Perkins, gave 
me valuable advice, and at last the dining- 
room was completed with tlie landscape 
paper, like a fresco, from wainscoting to 
ceOing, representing scenes from the gar- 
dens and terraces of France and of Eng- 
land, of softly tinted Egjrptian sands, of the 
Hindu Temple of the Taj-Mahal, of the 
Ganges, the sacred river, and of the vall^rs 
and snow-capped mountains of the distant 
Andes. Above, like an invisible cornice 
about the room, is represented the blue sky, 
making the walls seem, in truth, a veritable 
garden. 

The Chippendale sideboard, seven feet 
long, a noble piece of mahogany, is an old 



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208 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

family heirloom, dating from 1798, while the 
serving table is of Santo Domingo mahog- 
any, dark with age, and the two Chippendale 
chairs are from the days of my great-grand- 
father. A "bolingbroke" of Philippine 
mahogany for the red Bohemian family 
glass, is in one comer of the room, while 
inset, over the mantel-piece, is the copy of 
the portrait painted in 1788 by the "elder 
Sargent" in Boston, of dear Papa's father, 
John W. Quincy, Sr., at the age of nineteen. 
The dining table is of polished mtUiogany 
inlaid near the rim with satin wood, and 
was bought only last autmnn during a visit 
in Washington to my cousin Edith,* the 
wife of our present American Minister to 
China, who at the same moment was also 
making purchases for the new Legatimi at 
Peking. The twelve diairs were brought 
from London and are replicas of those 
designed and used by the artist-poet Wil- 
liam Morris in his own dining-roc»n in 
England. 

• Mrs. William Woodrille Bockhill. 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 209 

I will not give you further details, S. dear, 
of the gold drawing-room with the little 
groups of old French buque <m the mantel- 
piece; nor of the library {or "Chinese 
book-room") with the heavy curtains of ver- 
milion brocade of the date of the Boxer 
uprising, given me by my cousin Edith and 
the Minister to China on their retinm to 
Peking; nor of the little hall with the 
Ionic pUasters and carved teak wood table 
from a Chinese temple, with a copy of my 
great-great-grandfather. Judge Edmund 
Quincy's portrait in 1787 by Smybert, above 
it, looking down. 

At some future day "Ardley" (nuned by 
my aunt, Mrs. Hoppin, after an old estate 
in the family connection, centuries ago in 
England) will claim you as a guest I 
Already nearly every room spetUu of you! 
My lovely miniature tram you. Mid the little 
silver heart from your mamma, are in my 
drawing-rocan, whbe the large Hluminated 
Collect of the Feast of St. Michael and All 
Angds, in its carved and gilded frame, is 
the chief omMnait of my own room, and is 



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SIO PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

placed over the mantel-piece with its 
lambrequin of old Greek Church lace. 

Without the house on my terrace are great 
tubs of hydrangea, while in my lawn I 
already have great pride. Perhaps, later, 
there may be a formal garden with shrubs. 
The Colonial f«ice (where the posts are 
crowned with small balls) includes a double 
gateway, the approach to the terrace being 
a pathway twelve feet wide of white con- 
crete. 

I will add, in closing, that my household 
is all that I can desire, and that my butler is 
excellently trained. My maid, idiom you 
have not yet seen, is Christina — of long 
experience in service with the elder Duchesse 
de Sermoneta, — in England and in Italy. 
Invaluable in her duties of lady's maid, she 
adds to these the duties of housekeeper. 

You may imagine my first morning at my 
own maisonnette, in the fairest July sun- 
shine, with the same blue skies that have 
never failed to greet me at all happy times 1 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD SU 

Since then all has beat of a sweet charm 
and true cotdeur. de rose, and the m^nory 
of the dear aunt who aided and instructed 
me in the planning rests on the finished 
handiwork like the soft Ught from the 
summer sky at sunset! 

M. P. Q. 



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1906 

THE LITTLE OWL AT LUXOR 

Letter of Miss Gaedines 

Assouan, 

January 4th, 1906. 

The little book, with your dear handwrit- 
ing, brought me the pleasantest of Christ- 
mas greeting at Cairo, which we left oa. the 
twenty-seventh day of December, coming all 
the way by rail, to Assouan, and stopping 
two nights at Luxor, to break the journey. 

The weather is perfect, and we are enjoy- 
ing calm days, steeped in golden sunshine, 
the wcHiderful yellow light, peculiar to the 
land of the Pharaohs, lasting so long that 
one can see to read quite well until about 
half past five o'clock in the afternoon, when 
the sun sets in all his splendor. 

Mwiy of our friends of last winter have 
returned to Egypt and thus we shall have 
no lack of society. The two months we 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD SIS 

intend to spend at Assouan, will, I am sure', 
pass very quickly. 

My brothers expect to ride a great deal, 
A beautiful Arabian horse has been pur- 
cjiased of Lord Edward Cecil, through 
Colonel Watscai, an English officer, who has 
taken infinite pains in arranging for its 
tnmsportatiMi, by rail, from Cairo. The 
Arab groom, who had the care of the horse, 
came with it, and has entered my brothers' 
service. 

They both arrived two days ago, and yes- 
terday the Ammcan army saddle that D. 
brought from New York, last autumn, was 
tried. It was feared, at first, that the high- 
strung animal might be irritated by the 
horse-hair saddle cloth, but he did not seem 
to mind, though unaccustomed to it. 

From Cairo I sent you, for your birth- 
day, a book written by Lady William Cecil, 
called: "Bird Notes from ttie Nile," think- 
ing it may interest you, if you care for 
natural history. 

While taking tea, on the hotel terrace, at 
Luxor, I noticed in the garden, many 



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214 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

feathered inhabitants — and Eng:lish spar- 
rows, contrary to their usual housekeeping 
plans, building nests — ^think of it I in Decem- 
ber I Little beggars, they wanted all om- 
cake crumbs and boldly helped thanselvesl 
In the evening, while preparing to rest, 
the shrill notes of a tiny owl reached my ear. 
I imagined he was saying good night to me. 
Mid now remembering that gentle hint — or 
tage advice: — FSUdstima notte, c<m»»imaf 

S. D. G. 



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THE FANCY DRESS BALL AT 

ASSOUAN 
Letter of Misb Gaxdinxs 

Assouan, Egypt, 

February 9th. 1906. 

Your welcome letter reached me a few 
days ago and I enjoyed the interesting items 
of news that you gave me. 

Assouan is now quite crowded, as it is the 
height of the season. The climate is won- 
derful, the weather even warmer than it was 
last year at this time, and what T am wearing 
is of lightest weight. One can hardly 
bdieve it is not summer! The hotel vdiere 
we are staying has been enlarged since we 
were here before, and is now a huge building. 

They say the seastm is not so brilliant in 
Egypt this year, owing to the elections in 
England, nevertheless it is gay enou^, and 
the annual fancy dress ball took place here 
last week. Robert and I brought our cos- 
tumes up the Nile in readiness for the event. 



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216 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

His was that of an "IncroyabU:" black 
bicome hat, green vdret coat, white wig, 
white waistcoat and stockings, and white 
satin knee-breeches. The coat and hat were 
genuine — of the period — and the whole 
"make-up" was very becoming. 

My costume was a souvenir of our trip 
through Spain last spring. I wore an 
orange satin dress, with a rather short skirt, 
and a black net overskirt, to which were 
attached chenille balls. With a blonde lace 
mantilla on my head and shoulders, a red 
rose in my hair, and castanets in my hand, 
I succeeded in resembling an Andalousian 
dancing girl. There were prizes offered for 
the best costumes and a dergyroan of the 
Church of Kngland, in the rich dress of a 
Chinese Mandarin, won the Gentlemen's 
Prize; while, strange to say, a ^1 who 
had darkened her face and impersonated 
"Cook's Dragoman" won the Ladies' Prize. 
A friend of ours, quite charming in the pic- 
turesque costume of a woman of Tunis, 
might better have received this prize. 

That evening we gave a dinner of twenty 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD tlT 

covers, at which H. H. Prince Leopold of 
Battenberg, brother to the future Queen of 
Spain, was the guest of hmour. Nearly all 
present were in costume, so it was very 
amusing. The Prince with his tutor, and a 
young Canadian, wore the armour of Sou- 
danese warriors, and looked quite warlike. 
We had the prettiest girls in the hotel at our 
table, and were greatly envied, I fancy. 
Mamma sat at one end with the Prince on 
her right, and I at the oUier with Mr. 
Morgan, the American vice-consul in 
Egypt. 

Days of uninterrupted sunshine succeed 
<me another. Every morning the donkeys 
stand saddled and bridled, patiently await- 
ing their riders in front of the hotel, while 
below the cliffs, bordering the Nile, the 
feluccas lie at the moorings, their gay pen- 
nants floating in the breeze, and with dusky, 
expectant crews. The Nubian and Arab 
boys that compose the pleasure-boat crews 
afford us much amusement when we go on 
the water. They row very well, and under- 
stand the managonent of the lateen sail, 



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218 PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 

also; are alert, with a keen sense of humour. 
On the home stretch, as we approach the 
landing, a tom-tom is produced, and they 
begin a weird African chant, ending with: 
"Hip, hip, hooray; very good, very nicel 
Thank you I" — a gentle reminder of back- 
sheesh. 

To-night, as the moon is full, we are going 
with a party, invited by Robert to the Bar- 
rage, and then will follow a sail around 
Fhilae. Philae, by moonli^tl does it not 
sound enchanting? 

S. D. G. 



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1907 

CAP MARTIN, ALPES MARI- 

TIMES, FRANCE 

Letter op Miss Gaxdiner 

Catitsima: 

When I looked out of my window on the 
morning after Christmas, snow was falling, 
and the rue Saint Honore in a deplorable 
condition, but toward evening the weather 
had deared as we left the "Fnuice et 
ChoiseiJ" for the South of France. 

In consequence of the storm of the pre- 
vious night, all Channel boats were delayed, 
so the Paris "train de Ittxe" was an hour 
late in starting. However, we had a com- 
fortable journey, reaching Menton about 
one o'clock on tiie following day (Dec. 
27th), and drove immediately to the Grand 
Hotel du Cap Martin, where the suite of 
rooms prepared for us was t^e one usually 
occupied by the King of Wurttemberg. 

From our spadous talon we overlook a 



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220 PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 

terraced garden with a g'limpse of the sea. 
The bed-room windows also face south, and 
sometimes, <n still nights, I listen to the 
lapping of the waves on the rocky beach 
below, truly a pleasant lullaby. 

The views of this porti<Hi of the Riviera 
cannot fail to charm the eye of a painter or 
a poet. 

All around is a mass of verdure 1 Gnarled 
old olive trees grow dose together in groups, 
or in groves so extensive that they seem a 
fitting abode for Pan. Indeed, one could 
easily imagine the pagan god holding tmdis- 
puted sway within the dark, mysterious 
recesses of these woods — only the goats are 
lacking 1 

A luxuriant growth of shrubs covers the 
ground, and here and there, above the myrtle 
and "humble rosemary," a parasol-pine 
rears its head proudly. 

The roads in the vicinity of Cap Martin 
are attractive to the pedestrian — trees with 
over-arching branches giving shade — an 
agreeable contrast to tiie glare of Nice and 
Cimiez. One can ramble in many direc- 
tions. It is but a short walk from the hotel 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 8S1 

to the villa of the Empress Eug^e, whose 
choice of Cap Martin as a place of residence 
was most happy. 

Owing to its quiet surroundings, and 
somewhat retired situation, the Hotel du 
Cap Martin is, par excellence, the favorite 
one, on the Riviera, of the aristocracy of 
Europe. Queens and empresses have hon- 
oured it with their patronage. In the gar- 
den there has been erected to the memory of 
the unfortunate Empress of Austria a mon- 
tmient on which are inscribed verses by 6. 
de MontgMnery, expressing in their sim- 
plicity, such a depth of pathos and rare 
delicacy of soitiment, that I quote them 
hexe: — 

"Nous Bvons €it\i ce iris bnmble ob61i8qae, 
O reine Elisabeth, car vona aimles le soir, 
A Tcnir respirer la senteor do lentisqae, 
Et parmi les rochers pria d'ici vous asBeoir. 
Dajgaex dmc de ce bois itre la Protectrice: 
Leg f or£U antref ois appartenaient anz Dieoz : 
Soyes notre G£nie, O Saint« Imp^ratrice 
Et nous toos reverrons au s^jonr radienz . . . 
Car BOOS ne croytma pas anx ^terndfl adieus !" 

The words are a graceful tribute to her who 
loved to linger in these beautiful glades. 



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Often I rise before seTen o'clock, in the 
morning, to admire a glorious si^t. The 
sun, like a ball of fire, glowing red on the 
misty horizon line, ascends rapidly, casting 
his beams over the Mediterranean Sea, that 
begins to shimmer, and sparkle, in the ever 
whitening light. A few minutes only I sit 
by tfie window and — must it be confessed? — 
shiver I for the air is chilly even inside the 
casement ; but the maid will soon enter my 
room to kindle a fire of olive sticks, and 
meanwhile I return to my couch, and creep 
under the covers, until the temperature is 
sufficiently warm for me to dress. 

There are many details I could add, 
describing the interesting personalities, who 
appear, from time to time, at Cap Martin — 
but I fear I might tire your patience, and 
the picture already drawn will give you an 
adequate idea of the place where we are 
spending a quiet winter — not caring to par- 
ticipate in any gaiety — being in mourning 
for my dear uncle. 

Hoping to hear from you soon, 

S. D. G. 



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THE AUSTRIAN TYROL: 
CORTINA D'AMPEZZO 

Letter of Miss Quinct 

Hotel Faix>bia, 
CoETiNA d'Ampezzo, 
Tybol, Austria, 
Augutt 7th, 1907. 
It is with a sigh tiiat one leaves the Dolo- 
mites and the Cortina country, so lovely is 
this charming region 1 Yet this final week, 
after the quiet summer days, has be«i a 
series of delightful events, and I will write 
you of them, for we are now soon leaving 
by way of Innsbruck, for Paris, and this 
hour is one of the last of my leisure. 

Two days ago, in the late afternoon, while 
I was sitting with my book under the larch 
trees on the hill, a servant appeared in haste 
with a card. It was dearest Caroline, who 
with her husband, Signor di Felippi, had 
arrived in their motor, from the Castle of 
Valmarino, just beyond the Italian frontier 



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where tiiey had beax visiting- tiie Brando- 
linis of Vraiice. They had brought the two 
Contesse Brandolini with than, as they had 
consented to accept a return visit in this 
charming manner, and were to be absoit for 
a week in Tyrol. 

The younger contessa is the daughter of 
the Duca delle Grazie and grand-daughter 
of the Archduke Henry, and is descended 
from the mother of the late Comte de 
Chambord. 

The motor had left Valmarino only that 
morning and came directly to the Faloria 
from the little inn here (La Croce Bianca) 
to see me. Yestoday we all motored down 
the Pass, on the loveliest of summer morn- 
ings under cloudless skies, and limched on 
delicious brook trout, famous in this part of 
Austria, while in the cool of the ttfta*no<Hi 
we rested for tea in the gardms of the inn 
at Landro. 

The motor, a Fanbard of forty horse- 
power, suited to the mountains, was driven 
by de Felippi himself, a rapid but very care- 
ful expert in these matters, with Caroline by 



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bis side, and the chauffeur, an Italian, on a 
ttrapotin, on a lower level at the left side. 

The two contewe and I were placed 
to^retfaer on the great sofa — (I cannot call 
it a seatl) in the tonneau, while two other 
guests sat in chairs before us. Imagine the 
size of the machine, when beside all this 
space, the travelling luggage of the entire 
party and all the extra gear for the motor 
were also carried. Caroline laughingly said 
that at one time in Italy, when the car acci- 
dentally broke down, six yoke of white long* 
homed Roman oxen were required to drew 
it to the neighboring village. It was a 
progress indeed, but not a triumphal one I 

Once, over a perfectly straight and free 
highway, we glided swiftly at high speed, as 
if in air, without jar or dust. But all was 
arranged with such precaution that danger 
seemed out of the questicm. As a rule, our 
pace was more moderate. Certain of the 
European horses are already quite accus- 
tomed to the motor and hardly notice it, 
making way for it without excitem«it. 

I have greatly enjoyed the compani<Hidup 



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of the Venetian ladies (sisters-in-law and 
both yotm^). One of the conteste has a 
very pretty morocco-leather motor fan with 
her silver monogram surmounted by the 
ducal coronet. Both were also daintily 
equipped with little satchels. 

To-day we ail have had luncheon at the 
"Faloria," at a large separate table in the 
dining room. We met Conte Pocenigo 
from Venice, who is stopping here, and I 
believe the Conte di Bentivoglio is also at 
Cortina. BoUi noblemen are friends of the 
Contesse Brandolini, whose winter p^ace is 
on the Canal at V«iice. We had our coflFee 
on the verandah, and I have had use for all 
my knowledge of Italian, although as a rule 
the foreigners courteously speak before me 
in English. 

The Venetians are very delightful and are 
different from the Florentines and the 
Romans. It is said that the Venetians are 
particularly fitted for diplomatic life, and it 
is interesting that one of their number, 
Nami de Moncenigo, has been at the em- 
bassy at Washington. One still carefully 



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distinguishes, even with the Venetians, 
between the "Neri" and the "Bianchi" but 
one may also mention the word "patriotic"! 
I have been listening to everything about 
the despatches to Iti^y in the Russo-Jap- 
anese War and their effect, but I prefer to 
tell you of this rather than to write of it. 
How full of fascinatitu statecraft and 
political issues are! 



Thursday, August 8th. 1907. 

At half after nine o'clock tiiis morning 
we left Cortina en automobile for the Italian 
frontier, to lunch at beautiful Lago Misu- 
rina, a favorite resort of Queen Margherita. 
The delicious morning air and summer sun- 
shine made the road to the Passo Tre Croce 
a veritable enchanted highway I The views 
of the beautiful Ampezzo Valley, the majes- 
tic Monte Cristallo, the great Tofana, and 
the pretty Bigontina vale were exquisite. 

After crossing the frontier we were 
among sunlit glades, where we were detained 
for half an hour by the military at "cannon 



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practice." It was a strange half-hour, sit- 
ting* in the motor or strolling by the road- 
side, while the whistle of the light invisible 
balls rustled the leaves of the trees, to find 
their mark across tiie ravine! We passed 
aidless soldiers "si oUegri," as the C<hi- 
tessa said, waltzing, singing and standing 
together in happy, contented groups. 
Fifteen thousand of these troops are assem- 
bling at S. Vito on the sixteenth of this 
month for the Italian manoeuvres. 

We stopped for a little, at Pieve di 
Cadore, surrounded by Titian's peaks, and 
visited the church, where we were shown 
some small paintings said to be the work of 
the great master. 

We left the Italian frontier and re- 
ento^ Austria at Aurcmzo, a little town 
reminding the traveller of Spain. Thai we 
returned to the Misurina Road where, on 
ascending its rather steep incline, the auto- 
mobile, unfortunately, was announced to be 
out of commiarion. Nothing daunted, we 
alighted, and began the climb in little 
groups and in pairs, di Felippi still direct- 



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in^ the machine with Caroline and the Sig' 
nora Brandolini and Angelo, the chauffeur, 
in the car. The Contessa Margberita Bran- 
dolini and I, directed by an Italian officer, 
advancing with his aide-de-camp from an 
opposite directi<m, walked, or rather 
climbed, together, and then we had a most 
charming conversation. It seems that the 
Italian noblesse are doing at present a very 
sensible thing. They are returning to their 
estates, until now left in the care of stewards, 
and are devoting themselves personally to 
the duties they find there, with excellent 
results. 

The Contessa Margherita has a wonder- 
ful golden chain with pearls, attached to 
which are all mumer of charms and the 
medal of a saint in gold that was given her 
by Queen Margherita on her escape from a 
terrible accident in the royal motor while 
she was with her Majesty. There is also a 
little golden locket with a tiny photograph 
of her father "with the long, red, Venetian 
beard," and tiny lock of the hair. The 
Contessa Moncenigo, "the dear old one" 



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(the young Venetian lady added) , had givea 
her a heautiful chased gold tabatiire, that 
she now carries, en iouvemr, tat her 
cigarettes. 

We all arrived finally at the Grand 
Hotel Misurina and lunched delightfully, 
going out afterwards on this "sheet of pale 
green water amidst (most) beautiful sur- 
roundings," in a large rowboat, in which 
the Contessa and one of the guests insisted 
on rowing us in gondolier fashion. Alight- 
ing on the Isola Margherita, we were photo- 
graphed in a group, while Aetn Caroline 
remained on t^ shore in conversation with 
Lady Stanley of Alderley and Miss Stanley. 

The afternoon hour of five came, and the 
return drive to Cortina began. At Pieve 
di Cadore we stopped for a light refection, 
a substitute for afternoon tea, the two ladies 
meeting a delightful old Italian baron frtmi 
Turin, a friend of their father's. 

The homeward way was but the delight- 
ful repetition of the morning's drive, yet 
one more slight mishap, the breaking of a 
tire, arrested us as we re-mtered the Val 



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d'Ampezzo, and while we waited for it to be 
repaired, a lovely white poodle, with letters 
in his mouth, trotted up behind a military 
captain, his master, ignoriiig all the world 
besides, and greatly diverting us I 

We arrived at Cortina d'Ampezzo as the 
evening sky cast gentle shadows over the 
lovely landscape of the Dolomites, after a 
diarming day, that had beoi in truth "alle- 
gro" as the Contessina Margherita naively 
would say. 

M. P. Q. 



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VISIT TO ARDLEY 

Letteb of Miss Gabdineb 

New Yobk, October Sltt, 1907. 
Carimma: 

The sweet, restful impression of cmnfort 
and happiness is strong within me, as I 
write, — the feeling I had when leaving 
Litchfield — of you, surrounded by a house- 
hold devoted to your interests, attentive to 
every word and lookl 

I am thinking especially of your Chris- 
tina, who saw me safely in the train, and 
gave me many petit* »oin«. She is indeed 
a woman whose service is of great value, for 
she possesses a fine sense of responsibility. 

My visit to Ardley will be kept among the 
treasured recollections of my life, and I can 
still see you, as you stood that last morn- 
ing — on the stairs — in your pretty suit of 
white corduroy, ready for the many claims 
upon your time! 

It was sweet of you to rise so early to bid 
me farewell 1 This opportunity of spending 



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PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 2U 

a few days in your h(Hne, of which I had 
already heard such charming reports, — ^was 
a great pleasure to me, and I was delighted 
with everything, for everything came up to 
my expectations. Our confidential chats, 
with reminiscences of foreign travel, aad 
those coffers, heaped full to overflowing with 
family archives and relics, wo^ replete with 
interest to me. 

The many bibeloU and souvenirs of value 
that adorn the midaofmette make it a verit- 
able little museum, and how Techerchi were 
the dainty teas given in the Pompadour 
Salon, so artistically furnished I 

I liked the dining-room with its pictured 
hangings of oriented views — a different one 
on each wall — imd loved best to feast my 
eyes on old Egypt, with her Pyramids, the 
scene being most familiar to me, having 
spent four winters in that wonderful 
country. 

Over the fireplace the portrait, in oils, of 
your grandfather Quincy, as a young man 
in quaint eighteenth century costume, 
seemed so lifelike, that it presented him, an 



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approving auditor imd companim to our 
pleasant cau»eriea. Your reception day was 
most enjoyable with its old-time atmosphere 
of "elegant leisure," as someone has aptly 
put it, alas I so seldom experimced in this 
era of autfHuobiles and "bridj^." 

One really had a chance to converse, for 
the guests — c<miing in, at intervals, to call, 
during the afternoon — usually lingered in 
groups of two or three persons at a time, 
round the polished Chippendale table. This 
looked most attractive, decorated as it was, 
with fresh green leaves and embroidered bits 
of napery — offsetting cut glass and silver — 
while the stately buffet almost grouied with 
the weight of <Ad family plate and costly 
china. 

Women of intellect — such as I had the 
pleasure to meet here, one day at lunchecm, 
and with whom it is a satisfaction to compare 
notes of travel, — are not to be found every- 
where. Having gathered in foreign coun- 
tries much knowledge and information 
regarding things politicid and social, m- 
dowed with keen powers of observation, and 
a correct jsense of proportion, they are able 



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to inspire others with their own dear views 
and impartial judgment. 

The crowning touch to this mental feast 
was poetical, yet tangible in its reality, — 
shall we call it "The nectar of the gods*'? 
For then it was that Werner served the 
precious wine — its delicious bouquet recall- 
ing to you many sweet memories, while I, 
gazing into its golden depths, could see, as 
it were, reflected there the ancient glory of 
that far Hellenic land, from whence it camel 

How calm and peaceful was the Sunday 
we spent together, with the walk to and from 
St. Michael's church, along the broad vil- 
lage street, carpeted with autumn leaves I 

Dr. Seymour's discourse on the Episcopal 
Convention was most interesting, and it was 
a privilege to hear his vivid description of 
the Jamestown celebration, with the visit of 
the Lord Bishop of London to this country, 
making an epoch in our chuirch history. 

Thus, dearest M., with loving thoughts of 
yourself, of Ardley, and of Litchfield, I 
bring to a close this small tribute to your 
hospitality. 

S. D. G. 



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PERSIFLAGE 

Letter of Mibs Gabdxneb 

New Yobk, December 14th, 1907. 

This morning' Marie entered my room 
saying: "Bon jour. Mademoiselle^ U 
neige!" — so my plans for the day were 
necessarily altered. 

I could not spend the morning shopping — 
as had been my intention — ^for that would 
be courting "la grippe," of which there are 
many cases in town, and the light not being 
sufficiently good for miniature painting, I 
decided to write letters, and one to your dear 
self in particular. 

You are, doubtless, very busy in Litch- 
field, preparing for your Christmas tree, and 
I can imagine the country looking very 
beautiful in its mantle of snow. 

With us the time is passing pleasantly, 
our friends having been most kind in looking 
us up, after our long absence abroad, and 
not only those residing in New York, but 



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others, who are here temporarily. AnuHijf 
the latter may be mentioned the American 
Ambassador to Russia, ^om we had the 
pleasure of meeting in Egypt. He called 
before he sailed for Europe to return to St. 
Petersburg, on Thursday last; and he must 
have come home on some important diplo- 
matic mission, apparently bang in constant 
communication with President Roosevelt, 
who conferred witii him by telephone from 
Washington, while at the Union Club, where 
he was Imiching with Robert. 

David, I am sorry to say, has been ill sev- 
eral days with the prevailing influenza, but 
is better now, and will soon be able to leave 
his room. Yesterday he received a letter 
from the Mansion House, London. 

When our friend, Sir John Bell, became 
Lord Mayor in November, we read the 
description of bis installation with great 
interest, having been informed three or four 
years ago that his promotion to that office 
was in prospect. Now he writes in his own 
hand, to thank David for a letter of con- 
gratulation, and tells of the strenuous life of 



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a Lord Mayor — the many duties, (^cial and 
social, that fill his days. 

Sir John dines out "seven evenings in the 
week, and has one or more speeches to make 
each time." His letter ends with a cordial 
invitation to our family to call at the Man- 
sion House, "where luncheon is always 
ready at one-thirty." 

I believe the life of a Lady Mayoress is 
scarcely less arduous. She also is expected 
to preside at many public meetings, and 
assist in the presentation of prizes to worthy 
recipients at municiptd institutions, and as 
patroness of charitable organizatitais her 
presence must not be lacking. 

At the end of the year, I am sure, both 
the Lord Mayor and the Lady Mayoress 
will be glad to resume private life I 

Last Saturday I went to a Itmcheon party 
at a cousin's house, and afterwards to a 
matinee at the Criterion. It was very pleas- 
ant, and I also enjoyed the play, called 
"The Morals of Marcus." Marie Doro, 
taking the principal role, was most 
attractive. 



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There axe some beautiful miniatures on 
exhibition, at a Fifth Avenue gallery, by 
Alyn Williams, President of the Royal 
Society of Miniature Painters. 

The portraits, whidi include likenesses of 
King Edward and Queen Alexandra, are 
beautifully executed. 

Now, dearest M., I must say good-bye, 
with love from motlier and myself. 

S. D. G. 



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190S 

NEW YORK 

Letter of Miss Gasdinee 

New York, Ma^ 10th, 1908. 

It was, I am sure, as much a disappoint- 
ment to me, as to yourself, for you not to be 
able — owing to your brotber's illness — ^to 
answer to your name when the rdl was 
called at tbe annual meeting of the Colonial 
Dames of America. I was so sorry to hear 
that you would be unavoidably absent on 
April 80th, and trust, by this time, your dear 
brother has entirely recovered his health, for 
you must have be«i very anxious about him. 

The meeting was an animated one, but I 
shall reserve tiM details until I see you. 

D. is at Sagtikos Manor and very busy 
superintending the work in preparation for 
occupancy. I do not yet know when mother 
and I will join him, but we expect to spend 
two or three months in the country and shall 
hope for a visit from you. R. sails ¥or 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 241 

Europe this week, to be gone all summer. 
Such are, at present, the family plans. 

Are you enjoying the spring in Litchfield, 
and shall you remain for the summer among 
your lovely hills, or do you contemplate 
another trip abroad? 

The other day Theresa took me with her 
to call on a lady of your acquaintance, — 
Mrs. Van L — • — , — whom I found very 
charming. The view from her windows 
over the Park is enchantingi Of such a 
tender green is the foliage, just now, that it 
gladdais and refreshes the eye. 

There was quite a coterie at tea, and I met 
there — for the first time — the "Lady with 
the Pearls" among other pleasant people. 
The little daughter of our hostess ofiiciated 
behind the steaming kettle, and after par- 
takmg of the "cup that cheers" I findly 
came away and left Theresa lingering to 
chat with old friends. 

Write soon, dearest M., tell me how you 
are — and destroy this gossipy letter, for it 
contains nothing worthy of preservation! 

DevotUnma S. 



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AN OLD MANOR HOUSE 
Letteb of Miss Gabdineb 

Saotikos Mai^ OB, 
Apfletbeewicke, 
Jvly 28th, 1908. 
Carisgima: 

At last I can write and tell you about our 
ancestral home I 

You will readily understand that, owing 
to the house having been unoccupied so long, 
much time and thought wctc required to 
adjust and re-arrange things, but now we 
are really beginning to feel settled. 

First of all I want to thank you for your 
kind letter and the Greek post-card that 
reached me on my birthday and gave me a 
great deal of pleasure. 

I am sorry that you have had so mudi 
anxiety during the last few months, and sin- 
cerely trust there is no longer any cause 
for it. 

To proceed with my description of 



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David's domaine: — Having only se&i the 
manor at rare intervals (since coming at the 
early age of four years to visit my great- 
grandmother) I am gradually getting 
acquainted with my surroundings, and so the 
busy weeks have flown. The servants were 
sent down on June 20th, and D. escorted 
mother and me from New York the follow- 
ing day. We found everything arranged 
for our comfort when we arrived — the din- 
ner table set and adorned with red rambler 
roses, vases of the same bright blossoms 
having been placed in our slewing rooms. 
Of these we occupy but three — the house, 
having been enlarged by my uncle, contains 
thirteen masters' rooms and six servants* 
rooms. The estate numbers 1,200 acres and 
is of the same extent as it was in my great- 
grandfather's time. I find farm life very 
interesting, especially at this busy season of 
the yew. More than eighty-one loads of 
hay have already been stored in the bams. 

One day I went with D. to see the 
"reaper" at work in a field of golden rye. 
It is a most wonderful invention— one could 



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244 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD. 

fancy fairy fingers hidden beneath the mech- 
anism — for not only does it cut the grain, 
but makes it into sheaves, binding each one 
with cord, and tying a knotl D. had his 
camera with him and took a photograph 
while the horses were hdd still by Stanton. 
The latter is the superintendent, and has 
moi employed under hitn, some of whom 
understand very little English, being for- 
eigners. This reminds me of the house- 
man's mistake. He was told to take down 
the dothesline, and — instead — fetched three 
heads of lettuce from the garden I 

Imagine the dismay of the new laundress 
at the curiosity displayed by the Shetland 
ponies! Mischievous little things 1 They 
came forward to visiter le Unge — (as the 
French would say) — that had been carefully 
hung to dry, and really had to be driven 
away, as they were about to p^ll it off the 
line! Such amusing things happen on a 
farm I 

When I awake in the morning, my ears 
are greeted with many rural sounds — 
"Chantecler's" merry notes iroca. tiie bam- 



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yard, the lowing of kine, itc. Overhead 
garrulous crows are drcling among the 
eares, and fTom a distant field "Bob White" 
announces that wheat is ripe. All day long 
the birds sing among the branches of the 
clustering trees, and I have been able to dis-- 
tinguish many varieties. The wood-robin 
continues its melodious warble until twili^t 
deepens into dusk, followed — perhaps — by a 
solo from an owl or a "whip-poor-will". 

One can almost fancy one's self lost in 
tiie depths of the country instead of within 
forty miles of New York! And then — to 
use a poetical expressi(»i — whm night has 
drawn her sable mantle about her, and 
nature seems asleep, my mind reverts, amid 
the prevailing silence, to less peaceful times. 

I can see the old manor-house surrounded 
by hostile troops — for it is on record that 
during the American Revolution six huni 
dred Light Horse were quartered on the 
estate when my great-great-grandfather 
was living here. He was obliged to endure 
much ill-treatment at the Hands of the Brit- 
ish. On one occasion a party of soldiers 



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246 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

robbed him, and tied him to a tree opposite 
his own door, with threats of banging. In 
fact, his life was only saved by the interven- 
tion of an officer, who remarked that, being 
a magistrate, Judge Isaac Thtunpson was 
actually in the service of his Majesty, the 
King, and therefore could not be hung. 
While he was in the act of ascending the 
stairs, with a candle in his hand, another 
attempt was made on my ancestor's life. A 
soldier, probably lurking <hi the porch, fired 
at him, the musket-ball, providentially, 
striking the step beneatii him, and thus no 
harm was done. The bullet is still pre* 
served in the family. No doubt the life of 
this good man was constantly in jeopardy. 

Ah! those were troublous times when men 
rose to face a new day, not knowing if the 
setting sun would leave than still walking 
God's earth I 

However, with the birth of the Republic, 
happier days were in store for Sagtikos and 
its occupants, who were honoured by Presi- 
dent Washington coming, with his suite, and 
spending the ni^t of April 21st, 1790, while 



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on his "famous tour of Long Island". The 
room assigned to the "Father of his 
Country" is still called the "Washington 
Chamber". 

I try to picture again these series that 
have taken place — truly a part of the history 
of my native land — so I sit, looking into 
the darkness of the summer ni^t 

Along the South Country Road a srum- 
bling sound approaches rapidly nearer and 
nearer. What is it? A motor carl In an 
instant, with a roar, and with flashing head- 
lights, it is gone — and I am re-claimed hy 
the XX Century, and the needs of the 
present moment! 

Now, dearest M., will you not come and 
make Sagtikos a visit? If you would like 
to do so, bring your maid with you. 

With a great deal of love, 

Devotuaima S. 



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THE MANOR FARM 
Letter of Miss Gasdiner 

Saotikos Manor, 
Appletbeewicke, 
August 4tk, 1908. 
Carissima: 

It is with the greatest pleasure that I am 
looking forward to your visit here — with 
Christina, your devoted maid, whom I shall 
be glad to see again. 

The few days will pass only too quickly — 
for we shall have so much to talk about — 
and, already, I am planning delightful ram- 
bles over the farm and the fields adjacent to 
the manor-house. 

In the middle of a field behind the house 
stands — in solitary grandeur — a vigorous 
old oak tree, called "Sir Henry's Oak", 
after Sir Henry Clinton, Commander-in- 
chief of the British forces, who had his head- 
quarters at Sagtikos, for a time, during the 



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PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD 249 

American Revolution. If the general did 
not plant the tree it was certainly in exist- 
ence then, for, owing to its great size, it must 
be nearly two craituries old. 

You will make the acquaintance of this 
venerable landmark, and we will also saunter 
down "Manor Lane" to the Great South 
Bay, through "Sachem's Grove", and 
crossing "Bayonet Rill" — a shady little 
brook — ^no doubt formerly a trout stream, 
of which there were several on the estate. 
Fifty years ago trout fishing was much 
enjoyed by the young men of the family, 
who were accustomed to invite their friends 
to Sagtikos for the sport. 

Then, too, I must show you the family 
burial ground where those who have "gone 
before" lie peacefully sleeping. This little 
cemetery, enclosed by a handsome iron 
fence, has always been tenderly cared for. 
None came to visit rdatives at Sagtikos 
without directing his steps towards the 
sacred spot, a short walk from the house, 
where rest what is left of those dear departed 
ones — no longer here to give a warm hand- 



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S80 PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD 

clasp of welcome. This has been a time- 
honored custom. 

Outside the enclosure may still be seen, 
marked by a simple post and rail fence, the 
grave of an Indian maiden — a slave. 

Birds in the acacia and walnut trees are 
cartdling joyously as I sit writing on the 
verandah. Across the road is a fidd of tall 
Indiiui com. Like "an army witii banners" 
it waves in the summer breeze, and all nature 
seems to rejoice with me that you are 
coming. 

You will be our first visitor, and I shall 
look for you next Friday on the arrival of 
the four thirty p. h. train from town. 

Devotisnma S. 



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VISIT TO SAGTIKOS MANOR 
Letteb of Miss Quincy 

Aedley, Litchfield, 

August IStk, 1908. 

Of my first visit to the charming Manor 
of Sagtikos, dearest S., I am constantly 
thinking, and I come to-day to tell you of 
all the happiness that it hdd for me, and of 
my warm appreciation of the delightful 
hours I 

The large estate of twelve hundred acres 
(in reality eight miles in extent) with its 
quaint Indian name and its charter dating 
from the time of King William III and 
Que«i Mary, has, in truth, a singularly in- 
teresting Colonial history of its own. The 
original parchment with the seal, now in the 
possession of your brother, together with the 
old Indian deed, bring these remote days 
very near. On the quaint map, how the 
outlines of the boundaries suggest the 
Indian calumet, that well known pledge of 
peace I One remembers that Col. Stephanus 



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S8S PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD 

Van Cortlandt built in 1697 the old manor 
house on the original royal grant of land, 
and that after passing from his own family 
it came finally into that of your direct 
ancestor. 

The southern coast of Long Island was 
new to me, and the landscape, although quite 
flat, had the radiant skies that <aie so often 
meets on the edge of the ocean I Arriving 
at the station in the soft light of a summer 
afternoon, I like to remouber you waiting 
for me in the victoria, while, in the wagon- 
ette, a little later, my Christina followed us 
with the satchels, over the hroad and straight 
South Country Road. 

As we drove within the gates of the manor 
wid found your brother, the "Lord-Pro- 
prietor" of to-day, awaiting our coming, one 
could see in imagination other and earlier 
times, for Washington, himself, descended 
before the same doorway and was accorded 
welcome! 

Every guest will recall the ascent of the 
staircase with the engravings of distin- 
guished visitors on the walls — Earl Percy, 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD £SS 

Lord Cathcart, Sir William Erskine and Sir 
Henry Clinton, Commander-in-chief of the 
British Army in America. Even my Chris- 
tina exclaimed: "Ah, Mademoiselle, it is 
indeed like the villa of the Contessa Torri- 
giani in ItaUa where beautiful engravings 
and pictures were so many that not a finger 
could one lay between them !" 

It was a pleasure to occupy the "historic 
suite," with the little brass plates on the 
doors of the rooms. 

The pretty incident of Mary Gardiner, 
the bride of your great-great-grandfather, 
Mr. Isaac Thompson, and the white rose 
bush that she brought with her from East 
Hampton and planted in the grounds of her 
new Long Island home, has been kept in 
mind by your uncle, Mr. Frederick Diodati 
Thompson, in truly chivalric manner. A 
pure and lovely rose tree to-day may be seen 
growing on the terrace in frmit of the manor 
house, perpetuating the young bride's love 
of the sweet Persian flower. 

Before re-entering the house, dearest S., 
I like to remember the once well-kept private 



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racetrack of the manor with &e tiny 
"judges' stand'* long fallen into disuse. 
But to-day, the little wire-haired Aberdeeo 
terriers of long pedigree from Scotland, the 
Shetland ponies oa the estate, the tame 
Angora goats, the imported fowl of white 
plumage, the geese from France, and tiie 
wild turkeys, with pheasant-like breasts, 
from Virginia have replaced the once well 
known horses of the manor fann. 

Within the manor-house itsdf, I still 
treasure the remembrance of the panelled 
drawing-room, the crimstm brocade on chairs 
and sofas, tiie ancient family portraits from 
Lucca, together witii the lovdy miniatures 
painted by yotirself of your unde, the last 
Lord of the Manor, of your father and of 
your younger brother Robert. I was 
reminded of our visit to Havana, during 
the Spanish-American war, when the silver 
ewer and bason in Sir Henry Clintmi's 
room, and the tall crystal and silver-lustre 
ipergnea in the dining-room, were purchased 
in Cuba by your uncle; at the time when 
we also found fans and silver and a lovely 



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PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD SS0 

vme-wreathed chalice, in that beleagured 
island I 

The story of CKie of the wine g^lasses now 
owned and treasured by your brother, David, 
is interesting, associated as it is with the 
unfortunate Major Andr^ of Revolutionary 
days, when he was quartered with other offi- 
cers at the house of your ^reat-^eat-grand- 
father, Colonel Abraham Gardiner, at East 
Hampton. 

From the account of the first historian of 
our own Society of Colcmial Dames (who 
wrote of Gardiner's Island and its fanuly) , 
the words tell their own tale, how the son of 
the house, Dr. Nathaniel Gardiner, return- 
ing on leave of absence, was carefully con- 
cealed, as was supposed, but "after his de- 
parture Andre quietly informed the family 
that he had been aware of his presence in 
the house and would have been much pleased 
to make his acquaintance, only that his duty 
as a British officer woiild have compelled 
him to arrest the young surgeon as a 
spy . . . When Major Andre left East 
Hampton he exchanged wine glasses with 



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S«6 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

Colonel Gardiner, leaving two from his 
camp chest, and these mementoes are now 
guarded with jealous care by the descend- 
ants." It was a curious coincidence that 
this same Dr. Gardiner attended Andr^ on 
the last night of his life. 

The coronets engraved on the marble 
blocks that surmount the brick posts of the 
entrance gates recall the fact in your late 
imcle's' interesting career of the title of 
count having been conferred upon him by 
the sovereign of Italy.' 

The full length portrait of your uncle in 
the red panelled drawing-room in Court 

' Mr. Frederick Diodati Thompaon, d. 1906. 

*The many interesting events of bis joomeyings 
have been related in the hook, written by Mr. Thomp- 
son, called: "In the Trade of the Sun," which he 
carried, himself, as a gift, to the Snltan Abdul 
Hamid II at Constantinople. 

Having been appointed a Commissioner of the 
Ottoman Empire to the Columbian Exposition at 
Chicago and "in recognition of his services rendered 
in that connection, the Sultan bestowed upon him the 
Imperial Ottoman Order of the Medjidieh, and at a 
subsequent time that of the Osmanieh." 



Di3tizeObvGoO»:^Ic 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 267 

dress, painted by Finoccbiaro of Sicily, com- 
memorates his presentation at the Lev^ at 
St. James's Palace while the late King 
Edward was still Prince of Wales. One 
constantly realizes the appreciation in which 
Mr. Thompson was held abroad. From 
His Holiness Leo XIII, the papal title of 
Count of the Holy See was given him. He 
also received the Plenary Indulgence that 
hangs in its golden frame in the adjoining 
room, in acknowledgment of his really 
princely gift to the city of Lucca of fifty 
thousand lire for the OMistruction of an elec- 
tric ambulance for the Religious Hospital 
there, and for the "extensiwi of humane 
work." Your annals record "that in virtue 
of his descent from the family of Diodati of 
Lucca, together with recognition of his 
charitable munificence, the title of Count 
was also bestowed upon him by King Hum- 
bert of Italy." 

Do you not cwisider an excellent likeness 
the photograph of your uncle standing with 
H. R. H. the late Duke of Cambridge, at 
Homburg in the Golf Tournament during 



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3SS PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

the presentatifm of the prizes that he himself 
had generously given? The little aqiuurelle 
again represents him, — this time driving his 
relative, Count Gabriel Diodati, in his hi^ 
dog cart at Newport. Souvenir* de voyage 
add a modem interest, do they not, to the 
history of an old manor! 

But you know, dearest S., better than I, 
about all these entertaining things, that 
recall the charm of my first visit I 

And in coming again afifeetitmately to 
thank you, I see from the windows of the 
manor-house, the soft sunlight gleaming 
through the trees, and feel again the gentle 
sea winds rising over the bay I 

M. P. Q. 



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CHRISTMAS-TIDE AT ARDLEY 

WITH AN ECHO OF THE 

DISTANT EAST 

Letter of Miss Quincy 

Aedley, T.TTCTTFTKIJ), 

December 30th, 1908. 

Your charming little coeur. with its lovely 
card — ^all rosebuds and dear words — came 
to me at Christmas-tide and gave me the 
greatest happiness I 

I thought of you among the pines, those 
fragrant evergreens, that seem beautiful and 
more than ever lovely in their white winter 
mantle I 

My faithful Christina arranged for me 
the tiniest of fir-trees, and adorned it with 
little waxen angels, wonderful birds, and 
shining balls ; while ropes of silver tinsel and 
fair white "snow" glittered charmingly 
under the light of small colored tapers on 
the branches I 

On the occasion of the Christmas tree, my 



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260 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

devoted servants stood together <hi one side 
of the dining-room bowing respectfully and 
wishing me every Christmas greeting. 

We knew that the family at the Legatitm 
in Peking were aJso about a tree — large and 
splendid, as is the annual custom — with 
thoughts at Ardley. This year, the gift- 
bringer, at the Legation, is a marvelous 
camel, true ship of the desert, decorated with 
bells, that approaches the terrace, "fnHn 
over the hills and far away", laden with pres- 
ents for the delighted children whom "E. has 
invited to celebrate the festival with her. 

The family letters have allusions to bril- 
liant imperial functions at the Court of the 
Empress-Dowager and the young Emperor. 
On one occasion my aunt was present at an 
audience at the Summer Palace that was fol- 
lowed by a luncheon on the magnificent 
"Marble Boat" built on the waters of the 
Imperial Lake. 

Edith writes from the Legation that she 
has been entertaining Grcneral Sir Reginald 
Pole Carew, and his beautiful young wife, 
who was Lady Beatrice Butler, daughter of 



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PAGES IN AZUHE AND GOLD 361 

the Marchioness of Ormonde (herself a 
daughter of the Duke of Westminster and 
celebrated for her beauty) . 

My aunt gives little glimpses of the life 
in the dipl(Mnatic circle with its duties and 
its pleasures. In this way, althou^ an 
ocean and a continent divide the immediate 
family in America and in China, the affairs 
that occupy the great world are to us daily 
matters of personal interest. 

One comes to feel — in a curious way — 
that the very government despatches in the 
newspapers and public prints are letters! 
It is certainly very broadening. And quiet 
as the life at Ardley may seem, it is a 
charming one with wide interests. 

• • • « • 

The opening of the Senate in Washington 
is an interesting moment! One feels the 
atmosphere already of a new administration. 

Ever devotedly, 

M. P. Q. 

P. S. I have a pretty Christmas card 
from Princess Cenci, in Paris. 



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1909 
LAKEWOOD 

Lettee of Miss Gabdenek 

Hotel Laurel-in-the-Pines, 

Lakewood, New Jebset, 

January 3d. 1909. 
Caris^ma: 

The Japanese aquarelle reached me saf dy, 
and I thank you very much for this charm- 
ing glimpse of the Orient, so daintily 
portrayed, and also for your good wishes. 

Our Christmas Holidays have passed 
most pleasantly, the hotel being filled to 
overflowing and quite festive imtil after the 
haW on New Year's Eve. We have very 
comfortable rooms at the front, overlooking 
the terrace, and from our windows can see 
all the arrivals and departures, but, of 
course, we spend a great deal of time down 
stairs where cme finds many a cosey comer 
to chat with friends. 

There are long, wide corridors leading in 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD ses 

different directions, and besides the billiard- 
room and reading-room many attractive 
taUms invite the visitors to a quiet game of 
bridge. Last, but not least in attraction, 
should be mentioned the beautiful palm- 
garden, adorned, in the centre, with a foun- 
tain where gold fish disport themselves all 
the day long, and — at night, in a shimmer of 
ruby light. Among these surroundings 
imagine the cluu-ming effect of "Directoire" 
gowns that happen to grace sylph-like 
figures! 

Fr<Hn this tempered atmosphere, on a fine 
morning, my lady emerges, clad in furs 
{rom the tip of her nose to the toe of her 
dainty boot, and, stepping into a sleigh, is 
carried rapidly — to the tinkling of merry 
bells — along the banks of Lake Carasaljo or 
the length of the famous "Cathedral Drive", 
with its rows of stately trees — now snow- 
laden. 

The evergreen foliage of pine and laurel 
gives a cheerful aspect to the winter land- 
scape where none but cheerful faces are seen, 
for everyone is bent on having a "good 



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S64 PACES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

time", and enjoying the sports that Jack 
Frost has made possible in this ideal spot. 

When I walked, the otiier day, with a 
Washington acquaintance, on the path 
cleared of snow, and carpeted with pine 
needles — that leads around the lake — ^the 
temperature was so mild that one could sit, 
quite comfortably, on a rustic seat, and 
watch the skaters. It was a sunny after- 
noon, but a soft haze hung over everything, 
and the gliding figures and muffled sound 
of distant voices made the scene like some 
dream picture. The air was very still ! 

At night as I lie half-dreaming — the wood 
fire casting fitful gleams on the flowered 
wall-paper of my room — I imagine myself 
again at beautiful Cap Martin. 

With thanks, dearest M., for your 
delightful letter, that followed the little 
water-color, and with love from mother and 
myself, 

DevotUsima S. 



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1909 

THE DEDICATION OF A 
MEMORIAL LAMP 

Letteb of Miss Gabdineb 

Sagtikos Maxob. 

I accept with much pleasure your kind 
invitation, but will be unable to spend a full 
week with you, as my presence is required at 
home, where we seem to "dwell in the midst 
of alarms." It is not without reason that I 
quote Cowper's words, but if you have any 
fears on my account may they be imme- 
diately set at rest while I proceed to explain. 

Last Thursday morning, soon after mid- 
night, we were awakened by unusual sounds, 
and found our huge bam a mass of flames I 
The horses, fourteen in number, were 
rescued with difficulty, and the dairy was 
saved also, but the fire spread to an adjacent 
building — where the farm laborers have 
their quarters — and the carriage-house, 
which were both destroyed before the arrival 
of the firemen. They came, after being 



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266 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

summoned, — on foot, in an incredibly short 
time, and without horses to draw the hose — 
but the blaze was so fierce that the buildings 
were soon level with the ground. 

Stanton, the farm superintendent, was 
burned slightly, for, amid a shower of 
sparks, the horses had to be taken frmn the 
stable. 

It is supposed the fire had its origin in 
the hayloft and was the work of a pyro- 
maniac, probably the same who started the 
fire last year, after your visit to us in 
Aijgust. You will remember my telling 
you about it, and how much David regretted 
the loss of this old bam, the hand-hewn 
rafters of which, with the date, 1746, he 
would have liked to preserve. During the 
autumn months that followed this first con- 
flagration — for such it might be called — 
other fires occurred in the neighborhood, and 
always on moonlight nights. 

We were thankful that, on both occasions, 
there was but little wind, though, indeed, 
last year the manor-house was carefully 
watched, for burning dSbris were thrown 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 267 

high into the air and carried by a light breeze 
over the roof into a field beyond. 

All this excitement took place on the night 
following my trip to New York with David 
to attend the unveiling of the lamp on 
Riverside Drive, erected by the Colonial 
Dames of America, in memory of Hendrik 
Hudson, the great explorer. 

The morning of the 20th of September 
dawned fair and clear, with a CTisp freshness 
in the air, but when everyone was seated in 
the enclosure the sun was already so high 
that its warm rays were reminiscent of the 
summer just gone by. Besides a fair con- 
tingent of New York "Dames," the bril- 
liant gathering included the President of the 
Philadelphia Chapter, representative mem- 
bers of that Chapter, and "Dames" from 
Baltimore and Washington, while among 
prominent invited guests the President of 
the Society of the Cincinnati and the wife 
of the Minister of the Netherlands filled 
places of honor. 

The ceremonies began with the singing of 
the chorus of the "Dresden Amen," fol- 



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£68 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

lowed by the hymn: "Grod of our fathers" 
to the accompaniment of a quartette of musi- 
cal instruments. Mrs. Dana, acting Presi- 
dent of the Colonial Dames of America, in 
the absence of Mrs. Kin^, presented the 
memorial. With a well expressed and 
appropriate speech it was accepted by 
the Chairman of the Board of Aldermen, 
Mr. McGrOwan, who transmitted the 
Mayor's thanks and appreciation of the 
gift to the city. 

Miss Carmalt imreiled the lamp while the 
audience rose to the strains of "America" 
played by the orchestra, imd the ceremonies 
terminated with the Dutch national anthem, 
sung in Dutch, by the choir. 

A newspaper gave a description in words 
that I cannot do better than repeat: "The 
ships that henceforth go sailing up the river 
past Manhattan Island, after night-fall, will 
have a new signal light to reckon with. It 
is of 400 candle-power, imdemeath a big 
white globe, surmoimting a tall bronze 
standard, erected by the Colonial Dames of 
America at the 72d Street entrance to 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD £69 

Riverside Drive, in commemoration of the 
first passing of the "Half Moon." 

"Allen C. Newman designed it, and on 
one side of the triangular base he pictured, 
in low relief, the red men's surprise at the 
"ffSuiR '^ the Dutchmen's craft The 
other two sides are covered with inscripticms 
setting forth the achievement of Hudson 
and the fact of the presentation of the 
memorial to the city by the 'Dames.' The 
shaft above the base is ornamented with 
dolphins and sea-horses in high relief." 

Well may the Colonial Dames be content 
that the beautiful lamp has been given with 
characteristic commemorative ceremonies to 
this city of Manhattan, and let us hope, with 
Mr. McGowan, "that it may prove a beacon 
li^t to the mariner on yonder river and 
serve to kindle the fire of patriotism in the 
hearts of future generations." 

S. D. G. 




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FORMATION OF A CHAPTER OF 

THE C. D. A. 

Letteb of Miih Gasdinek 

New Yobk, Apnl 17th. 1910, 
Camnma: 

By this time, no doubt, you are at home 
again, and the visits to Louisiana and South 
Carolina have already become charming 
memories. 

Not cmly in aspect, but also on account of 
historical associations, Charleston is attrac- 
tive to northern eyes, — and doubly so to a 
Colonial Dame, for the prestige of pre- 
Revolutionary times still seems to linger in 
many a nook and comer. 

I well remember the old City Hall, with 
its museum, the mutilated statue of William 
Pitt, in the little park, and the church of St. 
Michael. These are luidmarks forming a 
quiet and subdued backgroimd to the beau- 
tiful harbour, where several warships lay 
anchored, when we stopped in this South 
Carolina town to break the homeward 
journey from Palm Beach, thirteen years 
ago. 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZUHE AND GOLD 271 

A classmate of Robert was living in a fine 
house, facing the sea, on Battery Park, 
which, as you say, reminds one of the Cote 
d'Azur, — and, like you, I have agreeable 
recollections of the residents' hospitality, 
mingled with the pleasure of meeting officers 
from the ships. 

• • • ♦ ♦ 

We have now returned to New York, 
where the noisy animation of city life is in 
strong contrast to that among the silmt 
pines. 

On March 1st, my cousin Sarah Lane and 
I went together from Lakewood, to the 
meeting of the C<donial Dames at the house 
of Mrs. Loomis. 

It was the second conference of the season. 
The meeting was called to order by the 
Acting- President, Mrs. Dana, and the min- 
utes of the first conference were read and 
approved. 

The Board of Managers announced the 
formation of a new Chapter, the sixth, of 
the Society, in Shreveport, Louisiana. 

S. D. G. 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



EASTER-TIDE IN WASHINGTON 
Letteb of Miss Quincy 

Abdley, Litchfield, 

Aprti S6tk, 1910. 

On retuminj^ to my maisonnette, dearest 
S., I was delighted to receive two letters 
from you, one on my home-coming and cme 
that had followed me. 

How lovely little "Alexandra Diodati" 
must have appeared during her first 
ceremony in Grace Church wearing her 
charming christening robe from Paris 1 
The dragiea de baptSme that were after- 
wards, at the reception, given to the guests, 
recalled the quaint bonbonnih-e that I 
received long ago when you were all return- 
ing from France. Do you not remember 
the pretty box in the form of a pointed 
Gothic window, covered with cream glazed 
paper on which were the arms of the See of 
Rouen in gold, while the dragSeg within, of 
violet and white, were in honor of the bless- 
ing of the bells of Barentin, not far from 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 278 

Rouen? The portraits of the three new 
bells were also imprinted in gold, with their 
baptismal names beneath, and the names of 
their god-parents I These are all so origin^ 
and quaint that I will write them again for 
you, even should you recall them. 

The first bell, "Augustine Berthe," was 
named by its godfather and godmother, 
M. August Badin and Madam Gamier 
d'Arrentieres; the second bell, "Blanche 
Alfrede," had for sponsors M. Alfred Le 
Tailluidier and Madame Damilaville; while 
the third bell, known as "Esther Ernestine," 
was the god-child of M. G. E. Brigalant and 
Madam A. Badin. The date of the cere- 
mony of baptism was November 8, 1891. 

It is sweet to think that the voice of the 
bell is said to have a sacred significance. 
The angels were the celestial bell-ringers for 
the passing soul of the lovely little Santa 
Fina in Ghirlandaio's beautiful frescoes at 
San Gemyniano, that I loved in other days, 
when we visited the many-towered Italian 
town. 



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374 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

There remain still souTenirs of my south- 
em winter of whidi to tell you, that have 
been waiting for this leisure hour. On 
leaving Charlestmi, dear Mrs. R. sent me a 
box of candied conserves from Ladeveze, the 
old confectioner of the last c^itury; while 
charming Mrs. J. R. also sent a little box — 
tied with daffodil ribbon, knotted with a 
spray of jessamine, — containing a most deli- 
cate feast for the northern journey. It was 
brought to the Villa Mu-gherita by the old 
negro butler, and delivered with a low bow, 
as we were leaving. 

Arriving in Washington, I had the pleas- 
ure of a visit from our Ambassadress to 
Russia (my cousin Edith), who is in this 
country for a brief time, to be joined later 
by the Ambassador. 

An invitation was received for us both, 
from the French Ambassadress, to dine at 
the Embassy on Easter Day to meet Sir 
Ernest and Lady Shackleton and Lieuten- 
ant and Mrs. Peary. Although I myself was 
unable to dine at the Embassy, the Ambas- 
sadress asked me to come in later, which I 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 276 

did, after coflFee had been served in the great 
salon. Among the guests besides Sir Ernest 
and Lady Shackleton and Lieutenant and 
Mrs. Peary, were the British Ambassa- 
dress, Mrs. Bryce; Countess Moltke (n6e 
Thayer), the wife of the Danish Minister, 
and Mrs. Beekman Winthrop, the wife of 
one of the Secretaries of the Navy. 

The Pearys, I had known before, through 
dear axint Mary Hoppin, and Lieutenant 
Peary sent warm messages to Cousin B. 
(who has been with him in Greenland, cruis- 
ing in northern waters, within the Arctic 
Circle) , while Mrs. Peary had many pleas- 
ant incidents of his kindness of which to 
tell me. 

Lady Shackleton described the "imperial 
penguins," great birds, some quite six feet 
tall. In appearance one might even com- 
pare them to a well-uniformed regiment of 
French soldiers 1 An amusing story Lady 
Shackleton told of these famous Antarctic 
birds: how one of the dogs of the party of 
her husband, having laid himself down to 
rest, was observed by a stately penguin. 



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276 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

Never having seen a dog, the penguin ap- 
proached it with gravity, and after a while 
went away, returning with two other pen- 
guins. The three great birds seemed to be 
holding an important conversation aroimd 
the sleeping animal, for very soon all dis- 
appeared. Presently, they re-appeared, 
leading a host of their fellows, to the place 
where the dog still slept; all the penguins 
being as carefully and personally conducted 
as a veritable party of tourists I 

In the explorers, Shackleton and Peary> 
one saw excepticmal mm, lately frau the 
opposite poles of our planet, and having 
been, as one said to a guest, "the two most 
widely separated men on earth." 

On the following Tuesday we were again 
invited to the Embassy, with a few friends, 
for farewells, where we met others of the 
Corps dtplomatique, among them the Com- 
tesse de Chambrun and the Vicomtesse 
Benoist d'Azy. 

To one afternoon tea came the Russian 
Ambassadress, Baraiess Rosen, bringing 
her pretty young daughter, the Baroness 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 277 

Elizabeth Rosen, one of the demoisellea 
d'konneur to the Russian Empresses. The 
Rosens are of the old Baltic nobility, and of 
a family of two branches, one of the red, and 
the other of the white, "Rose." 

The winter has been an unalloyed series 
of pleasures, save for the impaired health 
of my devoted Christina, to whom I am 
giving a summer holiday at Aix-la-Chapelle 
with her relatives. 

Looking forward to meeting you, dearest 
S., at the annual reception of the Colonial 
Dames, and with love 

Your devoted 

M. 



DiatizeabyGoOgle 



1910 

A CHRISTMAS VISIT TO THE 

CASTLE AT NESCHWITZ 

Leitee of Miss QuiNCr 

Dresden, Saxont. 
Ma Bien-Aimie — 

We arrived at the castle at evening. 

The fine cold rain of a December twi- 
light began to fall after we had changed car- 
riages between Dresden and Bautzen, but 
more heavily as we arrived at the Neschwitz 
station. 

As the train came to the platform, the 
door of the corridor-car was quickly opened, 
and there stood little Baron Harald, in cap 
and reefer, with a tiny guard's lantern on 
his breast, all eagerness to greet his dear 
grand-mamma and his cousin Mary. 

The closed carriage had been sent down 
from the castle, and we were rapidly drivai 
through the village streets, passing the 
quaint church with its green onion-shaped 



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PAGES IN AZUEE AND GOLD «7& 

dome, and the quiet churchyard. The peas- 
ants of Neschwitz being "Wends" (of the 
Slavonic race), speak a language of their 
own. They have an unique type of fea- 
tures, an especial costume, and are devoted 
to their overlords. The gates were open 
and we drove through them to the great por- 
tal of the castle, at this inclement season 
protected by a little glass enclosure with 
doors. 

The Baron came forward to meet ua 
in the great vestibule, a part of the 
Orangerie, — in its day, second only in im- 
portance to that of the Czar of Russia. We 
found ourselves immediately in the midst of 
the perfume of tall orange trees, the soft, 
almost tropical temperature being in itself 
a welcome. 

On this winter visit, we did not ascend (as 
before), the grand escaUer d'honneur, but 
instead, the smidler stone staircase leading 
to the right wing of the Orangerie, trans- 
formed by the present Baron into the private 
apartments of the family, with a deep, long- 
vistaed hall. The walls were covered with 



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innumerable antlers of roebuck. From 
each pair of antlers a little shield was sus- 
pended with the initials of the fortunate 
hunter whose shot had brought the trophy 
down, and the date of the shoot. As Baron 
Vietinghoff has estates in Prussia as well as 
in the Russian Baltic Provinces, the souve- 
nirs of the chase were numerous. Dear 
Marion met us at the top of the stone stair- 
case leading from the Orangerie, while from 
the door of the blue salon came forward the 
elder Baroness Vtetinghoff, from Russia, at 
present on a visit to the family of her eldest 

SCHl. 

I went to my room with my maid 
(Berthe's room is over mine), at the point 
where the left wing of the castle meets the 
new achlosa. The dressing-table was lighted 
by candles, and many books and photo- 
graphs were about. 

Returning to the blue drawing-room, as 
the guest of honour, the Baron led me out 
into the dining-room. 

It was a charming sight. Although it 
was evening, I remembered the lovely vista 



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of plane trees growing like vines on tall 
espaliers seen through the large Palladio 
window, for this view of the park from the 
castle is an especially beautiful one. The 
lawns were now touched with snow, and the 
parterres were in their winter protections, as 
well as the fountain. 

I was greeted by all the dear little ones. 
Baroness Dagmar, the eldest, had lately 
visited me at Ardley, and during this coming 
winter is to attend, at the King's especial 
request, the royal dancing class at the palace 
for the two elder Saxon Princes, the Crown 
Prince and his brother, Prince Friedrich 
Christian. Only nine of all the young 
Saxon girls are asked, each one being chosen 
for her rank, her beauty and her sweetness 
of character. The heir of the Vietinghoflfs, 
Arnold, is already fifteen; then comes little 
Baron Harald, who also has been asked to 
take his duicing lessons at the palace with 
little Prince Ernst Heinrich; then Baron 
Eric, eleven years old — the wit of the family, 
^o delighted in finding litUe sentences in 
English with which to. address me. Next, 



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282 PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

some years separatinf^f them, comes the 
^oup of lovely little baronesses. £lm, 
about eight years old, with long, wonderful 
Saxon hair of a golden white and the 
exquisite complexion that is a part of this 
rare colouring; then Baroness Karin, named 
for her godmother Countess Amim, of 
Paris, with large brown eyes, rosy cheeks 
and well-bred manners, aged six. 

Little Mary-Doroth^, aged two, was 
asleep; a tender, delicate child over whcun 
her parents are still anxious. Finally, my 
sweet godson, the infant Barcm Friedrich- 
August, named for the King. To him I 
was taken by dearest Marion, his manuna> 
as soon as possible, that I might see him in 
his cradle, with cheeks like a rose and one 
fat little hand against his sweet face, a sleep- 
ing cherub I The child is a magnificent b<^, 
not yet six mcmths old. So like the sunshine 
is he that his old German nurse in her pride 
calls him "Friedrich-August der Freund- 
lich," while Karin says: '"I, to myself, call 
him 'the King' but, in the family, I only 
say Friedel." 



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The ^fts that ^andmamma and cousin 
Mary had brought were added to the Christ- 
mas "tables," Berthe bnnf^g mine down 
from my boxes. Each child at the castle 
has a "table" for his or her individual gifts, 
and all are grouped about the tall Christmas 
tree in the blue salon; the two tiniest baron- 
esses shared one table, while the baby had 
only a wee table, for one so young, but on a 
very slender tall pedestal, that reached into 
the bruiches of the tree itself. Baron and 
Baroness Vietinghoff, the elder Bartmess 
Vietinghoff and the governess also bad their 
tables, but placed at the sides of the salon. 
While we were arranging our gifts for the 
little ones, the children retired to their 
father's library, the great Christmas tree 
meanwhile being re-lighted. At a signal 
from their mamma, the wide library doors 
opened, and, singing the first verse of the 
carol, the little ones entered, in single pro- 
cession, from the eldest daughter Dagmar 
to little Karin: — Mary-Dorothfe and Freid- 
rich- August alone being absent. Then fol- 
lowed such sweet happiness in tmt3ring the 



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new gifts, and many kissmgs of the hand 
and cheeks by each child as they found their 
especial giftl The silver-gilt diristening 
cup that I gave to Baron Vietinghoff for my 
godson was much admired. 

Then we arranged ourselves for the 
Christmas Theatricals: 

Chairs and fauteviU were placed in rows 
before the great folding doors that opened 
into the dining-room. 

In the first scene were three small fir trees, 
the fourth tree being little Baron Eric him- 
self, almost hidden in a mantle of twigs and 
boughs, with a wonderful dosed crown of 
green leaves on his head. He recited with 
great animation his verses, that expressed his 
desire of becoming a Christmas tree, an 
honour greatly coveted by the little ever- 
green. Suddenly the Frost Queen (Bar- 
oness Elin), all in white, with shining 
crystals on her dress, hearing the tree's wish 
and lament, flies upon the scene, a charming 
fairy with her wonderful floating hair, and 
also wearing a closed imperial crown to rep- 
resent snow. The Frost Queen kneels, and 



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reciting in a sweet clear voice, prcmiises the 
evergreen his wish. Then, to our int^ise 
amusement, small Earin (aged six) totters 
upon the scene, dressed as an Old Man, with 
a truly marvelous beard of great length, and 
a walking stick taller t^an herself. 

With difficulty, the small aged one seats 
herself, complaining in her childish treble 
of the "limbs not as young as once!" 
Then the old woodsman promises the little 
evergreen that he shall indeed have his wish, 
while the Frost Queen has already cast her 
arms about it, and that he (the aged woods- 
man) will soon return, and himself bring the 
tree from the forest to the home. This 
brings the Christmas Play to its close. 

Amid delighted applause the folding 
doors closed. In another moment my atten- 
ti<»i had been c^ed to a new member of the 
little family audience — the baby-baron had 
been brought in, happy and smiling, to have 
a part in his first Christmas, late as it was, 
and to have the little eeronony of receiving 
his baptisnud cup from his god-mamma. 

The elder Baroness placed him in my 



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288 PAGES IN AZUKE AND GOLD 

arms, and as no hands of mine were free with 
such a precious burden, I begged the Rus- 
sian grand-mamma to give him the cup in 
my name. The little noble, with an aplomb 
I did not anticipate, looked gravely at the 
cup, put one tiny right htmd forward and 
took it firmly by the handle, then put for- 
ward the wee left hand to balwice the new 
gift — and most wonderful of all — ^raised it 
to his lips in the most natur^ and usual 
fashion I There was delighted approval and 
I was enchanted] May his dear mamma*s 
later words come true: "God grant that he 
may do you honour, Mary!" 

Dagmar passed around little honey-cakes 
with almonds made by herself for "Wei- 
nacht." Two weeks are required to pre- 
pare this dainty, and Dagmar laughed when 
she said in her pretty broken English: 
"Will you not have one. Cousin Mary? 
They are self-made." 



The Christmas holidays in Glermany have 
three days of festival — and to-day was the 



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third — the first and last days rank in im- 
portance with the day itself, only the gifts 
are made on Christmas Eve. The tree itself 
may be appropriately lighted on all three 
days. On Twelfth Night all the greens are 
taken down, as with us. Among the gifts 
to the children at the castle were parroquets 
and lovely linnets, gloves, books, music, 
dolls, and "knitting balls" that are filled 
with little surprises that fall out into the 
lap of the delisted child as she indus- 
triously knits on and on in happy anticipa- 
tion. All were appropriate and each gift 
most wisely and charmingly chosen. 

The Barons go to the Chase. 
The following morning, grey skies pro- 
claiming an excellent day, all were on the 
qui vive. At nine o'clock the young barons 
were to go with their father to the himt and 
neighboring nobles were to join them. The 
game would be hares and rabbits, especially 
for the young gentlemen, including the 
Baron B., a "Mmerath" of the adjoining 
estate, lately returned from a long tour. 



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288 PAGES IN AZUKE AND GOLD 

With him came his pretty sister, a Saxon 
Baroness, wearing a costume of Tyroliim 
green. 

Dagmar and the young Baroness were to 
join the party at Imicheon. The hunting 
horn sounded merrily. A forester, or game- 
keeper, drove to the front of the castle on 
a curious long wagon used to bring himie 
the game. The hunting wagonette, a tall 
cart with brown basket sides, with seats vis- 
a-vis, waited opposite the gala portal, while 
the park lay beyond in snow. 

Very foreign it seemed, with the coach- 
man in dark blue livery and silver buttons, 
wearing a huge Russian cap and shoulder 
cape of long grey wolf fur, driving the pure 
white horses. 

A Saxon phaeton with other guests 
arrived, and all were received by the BarOTi, 
while a light breakfast was served to them 
vrithout alighting. At a signal the horses 
started at a rapid pace and all disappeared 
beyond the park gates. 

The ladies of the castle immediately began 
the oversii^t of the luncheon to be sent on 
to the rendezvous. I can only recall the 



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bouillcm, very delicious with rice, cCTtain 
sandwiches and other platt that are de 
rigueur for such occasions, and an especial 
hrew, not unlike our egg-nogg, also with 
eggs and cream, was prepared hy i/Laiioa 
borself. 

The hunters did not return until far into 
the afternoon, and the bags were seventeen 
hares, besides rabbits. When I entered the 
drawing-room all the gentlemm were hay- 
ing coffee in the Buisn's library and all were 
presoited before tiiey left. 

A cousin of the childroi of the castle has 
just arrived from the Baltic Provinces in 
Russia, young Baron Groothiis. Suddenly 
the group is missing, and shouts of delist 
are heard frwn the great right wing of the 
castle, announcing that in the twilight of the 
Orangerie the game of "hide and seek" has 
lured all in that distant direction, from 
young Baron Groothiis to smallest Karin. 
They were recalled to sing dear grand- 
mamma's carol, grouped about the piano, 
and very sweet it was with the lamplight 
upon the happy faces! 



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290 PAGES IN AZUBE AND GOLD 

The telephone-bell in the librMy rings — 
Marion replies. It is the transmissitHi of the 
royal command to Baron Vietinghoff to t^e 
his service as Chamberlain, wit^ the King, 
at the palace on New Year's Day. 

We are sitting aromid the table in the blue 
salon, Raphael's beautiful original drawing 
in its carved frame behind us, when the 
elder Baroness Vietinghoff brings in, at my 
request, her superb Scharpe d'Orenburg to 
show me, asking me to take off a ring from 
my finger and gently pass it through, like 
a soft silken thread. These ^ckarpea are 
costly, but are indispensable in the Russian 
winter climate. The very large ones that 
fall around the dress are said to be fine and 
beautiful. They are made by the Russian 
peasants of Orenburg in the Ural moun- 
tains, and are celebrated. 

The King of Saxony occasionally comes 
to the castle. All is then en grand gala, the 
escutcheons adorn the portal and an arch of 
welcome is arranged over the iron gates, 
while garlands and festoons are intertwined 
and draped at intervals. There is one 



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channing photograph taken some years ago, 
on the occasicHi of one of the King's earlier 
visits. Little Baroness Dagmar, in her 
white frock, is standing with her small 
brothers, reciting her verses of welcome to 
his Majesty, who is graciously inclining 
towards her as he approaches, smiling. 
Behind the litUe girl stands the governess, 
Fraulein von Obein, and behind her again, 
the tutor. The servants are arranged in 
rows of wdcome within the Orangerie. 
When the Crown Prince comes with the 
King, it is, in truth, a fSte to be remembered 1 
It is difficult to adequately describe the 
castle and the park at Neschwitz, which is 
one of the great estates of Saxony. We 
walked through the well-kept aUiea to the 
terrace of the old castle, built by the Dukes 
of Wurttemberg-Teck, over two hundred 
years ago. Later, after it had passed into 
other hands, the Counts Riesch of Saxony 
bought the property. Baron VietinghofF 
{who fQso has the right to the title of Count 
Riesch) inherited the estate from his ma- 
ternal relatives and came from Russia to 



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&9S PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD 

take possessicHi. He has added the wing to 
the new Scklosa. The Baitmess and I 
walked home tiirough the grounds and saw 
again the four sepiu'ate buildings in use in 
the olden days, for the theatre, the larder, 
the stewards and the servants, — all corre- 
sponding in architecture, although arranged 
within for widely different purposes. 

The vfhite swans were in the winter swan- 
house, although in sununer they have the 
charming lake for themselves. 

The old castle — not now inhabited, but 
used as a musexmi — is surrounded by a moat, 
luid with statues surmounting the pillars of 
approach, makes of the picturesque Renais- 
sance building axi effect of great beauty. 

The interior of the Wend-Lutheran 
Churdi, newly decorated, is very quaint. 
In its Gothic frame, Cousin Mary's .paint- 
ing: "Christ in Gethsemane" — copied by 
herself from the original in the Dresden 
Gallery — hangs against tme of the pillars. 
The Vietinghoff pew, — in the gallery — 
screened by glass windows frwn the nave, 
faces the place where it hangs. The pees- 



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PAGES IN AZURE AND GOLD S8S 

ants worship, sitting or kneeling upon the 
chairs, on the pavement of the nave of the 
church below. 

We walked through the stables, in one of 
which is a beautiful marble drinking-foun- 
tain for the guests' horses, — for the hospi- 
tality of the nobles includes their horses also. 
In reality, it is not one stable but a group 
of three, that we visited: one for the family 
horses (for driving and riding), one for 
the horses of the guests, and one for the 
horses employed in the work of the farm 
and on the estate. 

At last came the adieux. The dear chil- 
dren kissed our hands and cheeks, and 
Marion and the elder Baroness accompanied 
us to the staircase leading to tiie Orangerie. 
The Baron came to the grand portal with 
the footmui to wish us a happy journey, and 
in the waiting carriage we were rapidly 
driven to the little Neschwitz Statitm, and 
returned by the evening train to Dresden. 

M. P. Q. 



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IN CONCLUSION 

While reviewing- the correspondence of 
other years, in the leisure of midsummer 
days, we have not been unmindful of the 
changes that have heea casting their dark 
shadows on tiic Dial of Time. 

Those serene European skies — skies that 
to us seemed so fair and full of promise, 
are still, alas! obscured by war-clouds gath- 
ered from "East and West, and South and 
North." 

In the writing of letters — ^long folded — 
how unwittingly have we described sur- 
roundings and conditions that may not soon 
re-appear! and Memory — ever willing to 
cherish Life's happiest hours — permits us to 
see in the reading only 

PAGES IN AZUB£ AND QOLD 
August IBIS 



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